Building a champagne aluminium platey on a (premium!) beer budget

[viking57]

This thread is to support Nick H and all the rest of us who have decided to build a big alloy boat but with budget constraints. To be clear, I don't mean "cheap". If you want cheap, buy a thirty year old fibre-glass tub with a clapped out 2 stroke. Here are some ways I economized so I could build the best boat I could afford without losing my marriage, my house or breaking the bank. I'd like to hear other's thoughts on what could or could not be trimmed.

1. Do lots of homework so you know what you want. Crawl over plenty of other people's boats, seek advice and ask lots of questions. Make a file with all this info and review it regularly.

2. Seek a firm quote and what it includes from your boat builder. That way you can decide what "extras" you can afford along the way. (I used Sam at Performance Plate Boats. This is the second boat Sam has built for me and both have been excellent.)

3. Decide what you can live without 'til later. That way you can save up for these goodies. I have only just decalled VALHALLA after ten months and am still can't saving for an anchor winch. Maybe 2016......

3. One motor, not two. Even if the purchase costs are similar, your service costs add up quickly with two motors, especially at around $500 per engine per service. (I am up over 160 hours in ten months and it has been a bad year for me for getting offshore.) That said, I paid for a double transom set up and twin pick ups on my fuel tank in case I won Gold Lotto!

4. No paint. I painted the top sides and internals to keep Mummy happy. When VALHALLA was delivered it was bare metal and no decals everywhere else. My previous 31 footer cost over thirty grand to paint and antifoul. Serious savings to be made here.

5. Carpet your boat using end of run or seconds carpet. The savings are substantial. Carpet is the cheapest floor covering for your boat, deadens noise is definitely non skid and looks a million bucks.

6. Electronics are a hole which can suck too many hollow dollars and not repay you with extra fish. I have a pretty flash dash with stand alone KODEN MDC-921 8.4" radar and KODEN CVS-128 8.4" Sounder with 1 kw Airmar transducer as well as a SEIWA Explorer 3 GPS powering a 12" marine grade screen which together set me back about ten grand. I could have knocked more than couple of grand off if I had used a standard computer monitor rather than go for a marine screen. Forget touch screens. In heavy weather in small boats I struggle to touch the correct part of the screen more times than not. Very frustrating. The three electronics I have are all solid, proven technology which is not cutting edge but has stood the test of time. What price the latest gadgetry.............

7. Don't install a flushing toilet and fixed stove. Use your camping gear and share the Porta Potty and portable gas stove with the boat.

8. Buy your anchors from a friendly diver or dive shop. These guys are always bringing up almost new anchors which have been left embedded in reefs or wrecks. Really good value this.

9. Use what you have from previous boats or camping. All my eskies (300L, 150 L, 40L and 50 L) have been on other boats I have owned. I just incorporated the size of the eskies into the bins to be built on VALHALLA. And I still use the smaller eskies when 4 wheel driving. My anchor rope and chain has also been to sea before. Plus torches, life jackets, etc, etc.

10.Don't fit an expensive VSR to your boat's electrical wiring. (They only last twelve months anyway.) Stick to two batteries max and carry one of those emergency starters on board. Way cheaper than a hard wired extra battery and again can be used in your 4 wheel drive.

11. Omit some hatches over some of your storage spaces. Some of these larger hatches can get expensive. You can retro fit these as well later.

12. In conclusion, the hot works on your boat may be 30-50% of your final cost. So whether you go 6.5 m or 7.0 m is probably not going to cost you too much extra in the build. It is all the junk (read: fit out" that your mates convince you you can't live without!) which is the big price killer. Don't screw the poor boat builder, just use a bit of restraint and common sense in how you stage your fit out and what you decide has to go on immediately. I have attached a couple of photos to support the text. Cheers, Viking

[JulianDeMarchi]

10.Don't fit an expensive VSR to your boat's electrical wiring. (They only last twelve months anyway.) Stick to two batteries max and carry one of those emergency starters on board. Way cheaper than a hard wired extra battery and again can be used in your 4 wheel drive.

Got anything to back this statement up with in regards to a VSR having a 12month lifetime?

[viking57]

Got anything to back this statement up with in regards to a VSR having a 12month lifetime?

Yep. One failed me after about that time on my previous 31' plate boat. When I questioned their durability before fitting out VALHALLA I was advised by my local marine mechanic that this was their expected life span. I have had this backed up by two other marine mechanics also. I must admit I was very surprised and very disappointed to find this out about VSRs.

[Moonlighter]

Thanks for the informative post, Capt Kei --- ops, I mean, Viking

Surprise to hear about your issues with VSR.

My Surtees has had the BEP marine dual battery VSR system installed from new, and is operating perfectly for 5 years now. Most of the boys from the PBA Club also use them and I've not heard any complaints. Maybe you were just unlucky or something?

[peterbo3]

If you have some basic skills you will save a bunch by fitting all the electrical wiring yourself. It is not rocket science but you will need an understanding of Ohms Law & know how to use a multimeter. You may also need some guidance to get things rolling. Fit the electronics yourself but do not power them up. Some are required to be powered up & interfaced by a technician to avoid loss of warranty.
Fit antennae, EPIRB, deck, nav, interior lights & fire extinguishers yourself. But make sure the stand off plates where they are going are included in the hotwork schedule.
There are outlets where you can purchase Aust made tinned wire at a fraction of the retail price. Plus you can get US made heat shrink terminals & tube cheaply.
You can also save money by fitting pumps & associated hoses as these are generally a bitch of a job & builders charge accordingly.
Plan for future additions such as anchor winch, auto-pilot & radar. Make sure that there will be sufficient space to install these plus the associated cables & wiring down the track.
Get extra cable runs & hard points welded in during hotworks. Cost will be minimal at this stage but horrendous once the boat is completed.
Even if you never fit them the next owner may want them & ease of upgrade is a big selling point.

[myusernam]

1. can u post said outlets of tinned wire (above posts pls)
2. anyone with a waterfront property and a pontoon isn't exactly on struggle street or have a beer budget!

[outwide1]

Or just go all out like I have in a once in a life time build,even if it takes me 2 years.
I'm not having a go at you Keith,good post mate.
At the same token this boat has been built on a budget with the entire fit out done by myself and very keen friends.
Working away for 3 weeks a month,250 hours straight only to fly home and work on OUTWIDE.
It has been painful.I have nearly lost focus a few times now but i'm on the down hill.
Mick.

[zan0_15]

She is a thing of beauty mick!!!
What sounders/gps did u go for?

[gofishin]

Yep. One failed me after about that time on my previous 31' plate boat. When I questioned their durability before fitting out VALHALLA I was advised by my local marine mechanic that this was their expected life span. I have had this backed up by two other marine mechanics also. I must admit I was very surprised and very disappointed to find this out about VSRs.

...Surprise to hear about your issues with VSR.

My Surtees has had the BEP marine dual battery VSR system installed from new, and is operating perfectly for 5 years now. Most of the boys from the PBA Club also use them and I've not heard any complaints. Maybe you were just unlucky or something?

Yes, I'm very surprised at what you (viking57) have been told too! Any specific brands mentioned?

I'm one of the PBA guys Grant/ML has mentioned. My BEP VSR is now 6.5yrs young and (touch wood) is still going strong. I would not be without one, but I guess everyone's different.
Cheers
Brendon
PS. Good post & great looking boat too viking57


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[viking57]

If you have some basic skills you will save a bunch by fitting all the electrical wiring yourself. It is not rocket science but you will need an understanding of Ohms Law & know how to use a multimeter. You may also need some guidance to get things rolling. Fit the electronics yourself but do not power them up. Some are required to be powered up & interfaced by a technician to avoid loss of warranty.
Fit antennae, EPIRB, deck, nav, interior lights & fire extinguishers yourself. But make sure the stand off plates where they are going are included in the hotwork schedule.
There are outlets where you can purchase Aust made tinned wire at a fraction of the retail price. Plus you can get US made heat shrink terminals & tube cheaply.
You can also save money by fitting pumps & associated hoses as these are generally a bitch of a job & builders charge accordingly.
Plan for future additions such as anchor winch, auto-pilot & radar. Make sure that there will be sufficient space to install these plus the associated cables & wiring down the track.
Get extra cable runs & hard points welded in during hotworks. Cost will be minimal at this stage but horrendous once the boat is completed.
Even if you never fit them the next owner may want them & ease of upgrade is a big selling point.

Peterbo3 is right on the money with thinking your project through to include the stand off plates. I had mine in situ for all the things he listed, as well as the welded loops to hold the cable for the future anchor winch installation. I also mentioned I think the dual engine well installation and twin pick ups on the fuel tank in case I or a future owner wanted to install twin engines. All this stuff is really awful to retro fit.

As for the VSR's they probably warrant a separate thread along with other stuff that have a short shelf life for some users. Averaging 800 hours plus per year probably didn't help the longevity of some of my fittings and equipment.........lol

Along with plastic 360* breather water trap fittings which I was informed had a seviceable life of twelve months and should then be replaced. I only found this out when I questioned why they were installed on VALHALLA instead of the usual SS fittings with two breather holes covered with mesh. Please don't shoot the messenger................ I am passing this info on in good faith. Viking

[peterbo3]

1. can u post said outlets of tinned wire (above posts pls)

For tinned wire & battery cable Marshall Cameron is your man. He also supplies split loom, P clips & all the other wiring needs that will pop up.
CECA
U33/ 388 Newman Rd
Geebung QLD 4034
(07) 3865 1122


For quality heat shrink terminals & tube the answer is below my sig block.

[Smithy]

Yep my VSR has gone too (Blue Seas) and one mechanic I talk to on here has a bucket full of them. He doesn't like them either. You just have to be a bit more switched on with your battery selector switch without it.