need some advice please

[hardworking]

Thanks guys!

Yeah - It was not as smooth as I would have liked. Mainly because the old trailer was screwed and the rollers were shot! You have to be careful as you move forward and it drops off each roller. A trolly jack was used to to take the weight, and then lower it down onto the next roller that was actually too low. Slow and stead, and easy done.

I have the weight distributed pretty evenly. We rolled it up onto the wobbles and the adjusted all the other rollers around them, as the boat was sitting nicely above the guards, at what looks to be the right height!

I used a trolly jack under each of the keel rollers to lift and put weight on them one at a time. I also lowered the nose roller so that the boat looks to be sitting level on the trailer when winched all the way up. A trolly jack is a must for adjusting the rollers, so you can really put some weight on them. The rear is about 100mm or so in from the arse.

We had to grind some bits off as they got in the way, but the old trailer is screwed anyway. So it' didn't matter.

I must mention - At no time did the boat feel or act like it was going to fall off the trailer. It was supported by the wobbles from the get go, so no chance of that.

[Fed]

When you drag the old trailer out from under it with the car & winch the boat onto the new trailer straight off the grass you don't have to worry about the bum plopping off the centre rollers as it clears each one.
No jacks, no risk, no worries, 20x20 hindsight for free.

Slack trailer manufacturers for not angle cutting the winch plate and setting the bow stop roller height.

[hardworking]

Slack trailer manufacturers for not angle cutting the winch plate and setting the bow stop roller height.

Hi Fed,

What do you mean?

[Fed]

The winch plate should be parallel to the ground and the bow stop roller height should be set to line up with the height of the cable on a ~full winch.
Just little details that cost nothing to do right.
I bet all the hardware is electroplated too, at the very least hop under it & change all the split pins to stainless steel while you're still in the mood.
Did they grease the centre rollers?

[hardworking]

Hi Fed,

Thanks for the reply.

I wouldn't use grease on my rollers. I already know grease will attract everything under the sun and just become a crusty mess. Everything I have read to date advises against grease.

The trailer is Gal Dipped.

[Fed]

I've tried both grease and no grease and found grease is always better.
It's nice to have a boat that will roll off the trailer under it's own steam because when it's like that it's so much easier to pull up.

Your trailer is gal dipped but the nuts & bolts & split pins etc aren't.

[hardworking]

Ahh yep! We have already spoken about changing the pins and rollers (and whatever else we can) to Stainless. So that will happen in the very near future.

[Dignity]

Hardworking, glad to see you had a successful transfer, new method to me but makes sense.
It's the bolts and welded nuts that hold your wobble roller brackets that will need attention. In the old days the bolts were threaded smaller to accommodate the extra thickness of the galv, no so anymore, soon as the bolt goes in the nut most of the galv is stripped off and the bolt becomes vulnerable to rust, you will find that the bolts and u bolts will be the first thing to rust. With my new trailer once I was happy with the setup I cold galv all the bolts and nuts then silver painted them. My entire trailer was finally painted with xtroll rust preventer inside and out, , I couldn't get any tectyl at the time but I am happy with the xtroll as it doesn't look as dirty as the tectyl.