higher or lower

[PB]

Ph where can I get a price for a braked drive on trailer for a 4.5 mt side console ..thanks Matt

PM Sent Mate

[ozynorts]

if you have a look at the pics below you will notice how the hull sits nice and neatly down in the chassis.
Attachment 107114Attachment 107115Attachment 107116Attachment 107117

Pics aren't there mate. Have to use the "Go Advanced" button and upload the pics to AF then insert inline in your post.

[Lucky_Phill]

How's this Haydn ?

[ozynorts]

Thanks Phill.

[bluefin59]

Thanks PB got it ...Matt

[odes20]

Attachment 107134Attachment 107135image.jpg
Here are the two guides i mentioned. Please ingnore the scratched two pac. I got caught on a shallow reef recently, ill sand it back and re do underneath to be consistant with the rest of the boat. The blue on is a V skid at the front, and when the bow gets there, it cant do anything but centre.
The red roller model is at the rear, as a guide, and another one the same foward of it near a keel roller, but not carrying any weight, just guiding the keel to centre. The keel centres perfectly every time. I made these up some years ago

[gofishin]

Great looking trailers PB!

... A boat sitting lower on the trailer will also tow better.

Absolutely true, and the most important advantage of getting the boat as low as practically possible, IMHO! Even lowering a boat 20mm on the trailer can have a dramatic 'positive' effect on the trailed CoG.

Some trailers have the boats sitting way too high I reckon.

Although I recall the decision has been made, it seems this topic remains popular and may affect other future decisions. My concern is that some are missing the point that from Dignity's comments re skeg height, his boat already seems relatively low re skeg clearance - from what I can recall!

Some may find the following interesting...

With the help of 2 mates, I can provide some comments on the same hull on 3 different types (and height) trailers.

Boats were CC 685's. Heights were measured to same hull points from the ground, 1/2 way between the axles/wheels - hence a fairly accurate 'relative' comparison between trailer heights despite not being measured hooked up to a vehicle (and to negate being possibly measured with drawbars propped to different heights).


Rig/Trailer 1.
Std Redco/Tinka gal trailer but with 13" wheels, L/springs and stub axles welded on top of main axles, hence the boat sits quite low to the ground.
Owner has to trim up a little more at some ramps but can get to the post at most ramps without issues.
Let's call this the 'base trailer'.


Trailer 2, (my trailer, as discussed in posts 28 and 35).
DURALUM (U.S. Rocket International) alloy skid trailer, 14", swept/bent T/bar axles, shortest drawbar of all 3 from memory.
Boat sits 30mm lower than trailer 1 (base trailer), so it is very low.

O/B is still trimmed out from plumb/vertical when skeg hits the ground and when hooked to car, caution always required to prevent skeg kissing the ramp, but it still does at times.


Trailer 3.
Dunbier multi roller alloy trailer, L/springs, 14".
Boat sits 80mm+ higher than trailer 2, and 50mm+ higher than trailer 1.
Skeg is alooong way above the deck when the donk is vertical.
Owner never has issues with any ramps... As expected.

Obviously the clearance under the skeg has a lot to do with towbar/hitch height too. Although I use an adjustable height HR hitch, with my previous 2 tow vehicles I needed a lower hitch height to enable the rear door to be opened (important to me). This gave me more/better clearance under the skeg (and less ramp troubles), but meant I needed to use planks both sides to get out of my humpy driveway .

With my current tow tractor I can use a higher hitch which means no driveway planks required, but more ramp/skeg issues!

As always, boating is a compromise .

Cheers
Brendon



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[Dignity]

Ok guys, I have ordered the trailer, went to Parkes to make sure Elvis left the building ( the managing director had precedence on where she wanted to go this year) and now that I am back I want to make sure I Tectyl the inside and outside of the trailer before it's first dunking. I was looking to use a spray nozzle attached to the compressor to push up the channels to make sure they all got nicely coated, anyone used one and know what they are called or the best place to get one.

[scottar]

I purchased an entry level rust proofing gun from Access Industrial at Murrarrie - cost about $120 from memory. There are cheaper options on the net but I still like to have a gander at what I am buying in person. Worked well with fisholene.

[Gon Fishun]

Kero spray gun then attach a length of pvc tubing.

[Dignity]

I purchased an entry level rust proofing gun from Access Industrial at Murrarrie - cost about $120 from memory. There are cheaper options on the net but I still like to have a gander at what I am buying in person. Worked well with fisholene.

Thanks Scottar, will have a look at it, I have used fisholene before but found the smell annoyed the neighbour's and more importantly the missus, also it attracted all the dust which some say is a good thing but not sure.

[Dignity]

Kero spray gun then attach a length of pvc tubing.

Gon, did you take the nozzle off the spray gun and attach it to the PDC pipe, also tectyl is quite heavier than kero, would the nozzle handle it.

[scottar]

Whatever you use Dignity, don't do what I did and forget to put containers under the drain holes in the cross members or at the back of the side rails for the excess to drain into - end result - sticky mess. I use the fisholene on the internals but the outside gets both a bit of fisholene and lanolin. As you say the result is certainly a dust attracter but I don't mind a trailer that looks a bit grotty and average - they tend to still be at the ramp the following morning if you know what I mean. As for the neighbours - they annoy me sometimes too so I figure we're even.

[Lucky_Phill]

All the products mentioned above are good.

Personally, I have used them all, but nothing comes close to total protection that Tectyl 506.

A great example was my tinka trailer under my 4.1 tinnie. Think it was over 9 years old when I sold it and the only rust, was surface rust on a couple of bolt ends. That boat was used a lot and often sunk. The only parts I regularly sprayed were the leaf springs...

My current FMS trailer was bought new in 2006 and has no signs of rust externally... I sprayed it with Tectyl immediately.


LP

[Dignity]

All the products mentioned above are good.

The only parts I regularly sprayed were the leaf springs...

My current FMS trailer was bought new in 2006 and has no signs of rust externally... I sprayed it with Tectyl immediately.


LP

Thanks Phill, what equipment did you use to spray the tectyl with, the mainframe is quite long, the last time I did something on a previous trlr was many years ago, I plugged all the holes and flooded the channels, however this was a very messy job, I have since bought a compressor and hoped to find a less messier solution.