Better answer this tomorrow.... slurp, hic...Originally Posted by Dignity
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Better answer this tomorrow.... slurp, hic...
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Hic, whaaaat was a a a as than a a a a at again?
Brendon, one sits on a subframe the other doesn't. It is odd that none of the trailer manufacturers can actually tell me the height of their different trailer models, their focus appears to be on overall length and width, and I have spoken to quite a few. I know where you are coming from as in the last few months I have been measuring many trailers and it is not an easy job as no yard even the manufacturers hold every model or even one that I would hope to purchase, I have found this most frustrating especially in this day and age with autocad and other programs available to them. The variations are great but nothing that they shouldn't be able to answer. To my mind it can be the difference of a sale, must be a great market if all you need is a good price, OAL length and width.
Trailer " height " cannot be defined.
You'll need much more info.
Is the height measured from the roller supports ? Cradle ? Axle ?
Certainly roller placement can determine boat height on the trailer. The trailer height is also subject to the towball height on the car. That is, where exactly should one measure the trailer height from.... ideally, directly over the axle..... ?
Trailers are also sold as " winch on or drive on "... they either have rollers or skids. ( or a combination ) They can also have things like power winches and Ezi Guide systems. Trailers can also be a " tilt " type... which by all accounts could be a solution to this problem ?? photo below.
Buying new , you can ask to have the leaf springs fitted on top or below the axles. The manufacturer will try to talk you out of any changes to " their " product, but remember, it's " your " boat that going on it. The manufacturer ( supplier ) should set up the trailer to your boat and personal needs ( if buying new ).
LP
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Sam, there are a few disadvantages, some/most as suggested in previous posts incl. ground clearance issues on the X-members (both ends of the axles too). A big problem if you ever intend to tow up the beach, but also with kerbs and dips/humps into driveways.
The biggest problem I have found is with skeg clearance at ramps and driving on. This depends on the ramp design incl overall length, whether it shallows or drops off under water, and of course the tide.
At higher tides, if your truck is over the ramp hump, the towbar is higher than normal in relation to the submerged ramp (where the trailer is) and hence your skeg is closer to the ramp due to the cantilever effect.
From memory my donk is ~ two trim bars away from plumb (vertical) when hooked up on level ground, which maybe sounds a little worse than your current rig. My trailer is an ally skid trailer, so a little more flexible than a HDG one. When combined, these make driving on up to the post impossible if I want to maintain control and not 'gun it and hope' it was not too much oomph.
I always leave ~60-100cm of strap out, and sometimes feel the skeg kiss the concrete as the hook is going on. Not enough trim and I kiss early, too much trim and it digs the bum in - and I still kiss early. Luckily I don't need much speed/revs at all getting up my boat up the trailer so the skeg is mostly just roughed up and only missing 'a shaving' in one spot.
If you are a 'drive on' man, forget the lower trailer. However, if you are going to winch on, a lower trailer will help you keep your bearings out of the drink.
Cheers & HNY!
Brendon
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Brendon, just back from taking brother and his family out for the day, niece got a nice trevally for her first fish, anyway checked the trailer height and it is slightly down at the front and I can trim the motor all the way down with about 10 mm to spare, I drive on but I can rarely get all the way on and usually need anywhere from 300 to 500 mm from the winch. With all the good info I have received from this thread I think it has to be the higher option with possibly a tilt to make it easier. I also need to now sort out the towball, I bought an extended one but the bolt shops around and I get it as tight as possible but after towing it is loose, I need to sleeve it to solve the issue.
Looks like it's gettin sorted then.... good news
LP
Kingfisher Painting Solutions:- Domestic and Commercial.
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Thanks Phill, getting there, as you mentioned it is my boat and my trailer but it is very hard talking to boat yards as they aren't often that knowledgeable about boats and trailers that they don't deal in and even though I have spoken direct with quite a few manufacturers direct they seem to know very little about the application of their product. I will give FMS a call Monday as I haven't spoken to them yet.
Edit. I wasn't being critical of the dealers and manufacturers as this is a very complex issue, it is just so frustrating.
There's nothing worse than loose balls/nuts when towing mate, especially with an extended one....[emoji15]
Not really sure what you mean here, the nut on the tow ball? By extended you mean a longer/taller towball?
Cheers
Brendon
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If the trailer had a full height rear roller right at the transom I bet you'd never hit the ramp sinking it to Phill's pink lines.
IMO trailer makers are really pretty slack, short arsed trailers, angled winch plates, crap electroplated nuts & bolts and very little idea of real world use of their product.
Fed, are you saying it should be a fixed roller and not a rocker cradle. Understand totally your comment on trlr makers, as mentioned I have been very frustrated when discussing other things with them, they are very happy to option your trailer up at additional expense but can't tell you much else. The one manufacturer who makes virtually an identical setup with and without a subframe couldn't tell me what the height difference was regardless of whether it is attached to a vehicle or not, I asked what is the height of the top of the frame where the centre of the load sharing springs bracket was - no idea only a guesstimate, this measurement should not change more than a couple of mm whether it is on a vehicle or not as it is a pivot point.
Brendon,
The ball slops around, it was the one supplied with the unit which is intriguing, the diameter of the actual bolt is too small for the hole it sits in and consequently with movement even the spring washer wont stop it slowly undoing, I will try sleeving it or maybe look for another ball, I will definitely be putting another nut on it to lock it in place. The extended towbar is one that is 110 mm longer than a standard towbar, I got this one because the bowsprit sat way too close to the back of the vehicle and I could never open the rear doors to put anything in or get anything out.
A full height fixed keel roller right at the transom with a roller cradle on either side, BUT the rear roller cradle rollers also in line with the transom.Fed, are you saying it should be a fixed roller and not a rocker cradle.
It seems to me that right now when the boat is lifting on the "pink line" centre roller the cradle is still in the V part of the hull and not lifting the back of the boat up, a full height centre roller would stop the back of the boat going too deep.
Why don't you put up a few pictures of the existing trailer and a link to the ones you're interested in buying.
You wouldn't want to buy a new one & still have a problem.
Fed, going to buy the trailer - third in LP's pics - I believe it might be an MT190, after reviewing all the comments I have decided that" lower" will only cause me more grief, I have spent a couple of days on the water checking where everything sits and taking everyones input into account. The current trailer is short by around 250 mm and that is probably a significant part of the problem. I have ordered the new one from Stones Corner Marine as they gave me a good price, were quick to respond to my enquiries, offered to change over and set up the new trailer without being asked. I have only had one previous dealing with them and that also was some of the best service I have received.
Thanks to everyone on your comments as I learned a fair bit about trailer set ups and some of the pitfalls and also that my logic is usually illogical.
It doesn't look like the mt190.
You sound like me, out of sheer frustration & time pressure I said f#ckit, it's only a boat trailer. I wish I had of researched a bit further or made a few requests to the trailer builder.
Got the Tinka MT 170 Classic and I wouldn't buy another. The olsen Led trailer lights are shit, the bolts have all rusted and the gal is coming off in chunks. I wouldn't mind if it was left outside, however it has been babied and washed down after every use and kept in a shed. Previous trailer was a Mackay and the difference is chalk and cheese to this one.
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