Boat Trailer project

[Dignity]

Brett, awesome job, I'm sure I wouldn't have had the patience, for your axles get hold of some Denso Tape about 100mm wide and over wrap it around the axles between the springs by 50 % then you smooth it over, it's like putting a plaster cast on your arm. It's brown, will stay soft but the metal underneath will never rust. I know one guy who even tried wrapping it around his springs but too many fittings and protrusions to be successful.

Hopefully now with your spare time you will spend more time on the water.

[Gr0wler]

Thanks Greg

Not sure what you would pay for a custom trailer these days but the cost with galvanising will be $11,000 which is still a fair amount of dollars. Will be towing fair distances at times and went all out with stainless brakes and heavy duty running gear so I can register as 4 ton capacity. I made a mistake of the weight of the steel in the pervious post, Steel used will be 700kg so it should come in at about 1200kg.

wow, 1200kg ! hevy scker that one! can't remember what my trailer weighs (and it's alloy) but a friends gal steel trailer for his 3000 Kevlacat says 1000kg on the manufacturer's plate and that's a BIG trailer, didn't realise just how much weight all those rollers and cradles add.

[brett62]

Hi Dignity,

The denso wrap would be a good thing. It would also protect against stone chips. I sandblasted, painted and then poured rust proofing over them but a couple of stone chips can bring that all undone if I don't keep an eye on it. I shall get myself the tape and thanks for the suggestion.

[goona]

goona I can't open the photos.

Hi Brett,

I will try it this way. Let me know if you can view these photos. They are a JPEG which is the same as your photos so I dropped the size of them hopefully that will do it.
Cheers Goona

[brett62]

Will be interesting once I get it over the scales. The galvanising adds about 10% to the total weight and then add the running gear plus rollers and you are pretty heavy. I used heavier wall sections and also added more bracing then what the production trailers have. I made the roller frames with 4mm wall thickness so I can't see them breaking in a hurry.

I would have loved for the whole rig to come in at the 3500 kg so I could tow with a landcrusier but was never going to make it so what the hell build the trailer solid LOL. If your mates trailer comes in at 1000 kg I would love to know what size sections they used. Anyway I will post the weights once I have them.

wow, 1200kg ! hevy scker that one! can't remember what my trailer weighs (and it's alloy) but a friends gal steel trailer for his 3000 Kevlacat says 1000kg on the manufacturer's plate and that's a BIG trailer, didn't realise just how much weight all those rollers and cradles add.

[brett62]

Yep got them.

Had a trailer with the same set up years ago and yes building the boggie out of channel is the go and you could gal and never have a problem again.

From what I can see from the photos the main rails look ok until the back section. You can splice and weld in a new section with on problem. The important thing to look at is the internal section of the main rails to see what is going on in there. If you can see rusting inside would be best to replace rails.

Have you had someone look at it yet and price to repair? If all the running gear is in order there are a couple of options available to you. Are you a hands on person ?

Hi Brett,

I will try it this way. Let me know if you can view these photos. They are a JPEG which is the same as your photos so I dropped the size of them hopefully that will do it.
Cheers Goona

[goona]

Hi Brett,
No haven't taken it anywhere yet as we have just moved back to Brisbane and notice the trailer seems to have gotten a heap worse over the last 6 months. Yep very hands on person. Chippi by trade. Have even welded a little in my time but wouldn't trust my welding with this nor anything structural.
What were you thinking?
Goona

[Moejoes]

Will be interesting once I get it over the scales. The galvanising adds about 10% to the total weight and then add the running gear plus rollers and you are pretty heavy. I used heavier wall sections and also added more bracing then what the production trailers have. I made the roller frames with 4mm wall thickness so I can't see them breaking in a hurry.

I would have loved for the whole rig to come in at the 3500 kg so I could tow with a landcrusier but was never going to make it so what the hell build the trailer solid LOL. If your mates trailer comes in at 1000 kg I would love to know what size sections they used. Anyway I will post the weights once I have them.

Hi Brett,
Mine 4.5 ton trailer weighed 880kgs finished ungalvanised, then once galvanised took it back over the scales and it came in at 900kgs!!!!
Only 20kgs of galvanising. The main frame was built from 125x75x3mm C450 grade steel & the welding wire had to be 1 grade up from C450 grade as advised by my engineer.
I noticed in the pics your rear trailer lights seem a fair way up under the boat. You might want to check the regs on that as I can't remember the maximium distance.
My opinion Brett, if your going to register it over 3500kgs you may as well get it rated to 4500kgs ( if built to that rating ) as you will still need to get a roadworthy every year at rego renewal plus you'll have that extra buffer.
Least that way, you won't get a fine for the trailer being overloaded if you go over the 4000kgs.
Cheers Rob.

[brett62]

goona I am thinking you could do with some help.

I have all the equipment to fabricate whatever you need. I work away and will be back home 27th of June. If you would like me to come around and have a look and see what is the best way to tackle fixing/replacing.

We can price up what the steel will be and if you assist with building I think we have a project. I am at Caboolture so not that far away. We can measure what is needed and fabricate at my place. You could then drop your boat off the trailer at your place bring the trailer around so we could tie your new parts on and take away. Depending on what we build you can take to the galvaniser on the old trailer and then pick it up again. You just need to get it home change the gear from the old to new and you are done. You could then sell your old steel for scrap and buy a beer. You will save yourself heaps just in freight. To get the steel to my place from Brisbane is only $75. Sending it back to Brisbane was $250. You will be up for about $150 for welding rod and cutting disc etc.

If you want to do something PM me your phone number and I will give you a call when I get home.

[goona]

Hi Brett

That sounds awesome and would be very appreciated. I have PM'd you my number.

Goona

[brett62]

Moejoes I agree the lights may be a issue and I may have to move them back some. Your number plate must be seen from a 45 deg angle. I spoke to the inspection station about a few issues to get some advice and they said that boat trailers sometimes due to there design may not meet all the requirements to the letter and there are some concessions with regards to lighting. I will see how I go.

I will only be going for the 4 ton as that is my axle rating and will be ok with that. If the trailer was a general purpose I would have built to 4.5 ton. Its only ever going to have the boat on it. Your weight figures are interesting, I have just worked the weight out from the steel manufactures data and the weight of the running gear from the suppliers information as with the galvanising from the gents that did the work. The trailer is 150 x 50 x 4mm and 150 x 50 x 5mm RHS and 100mm PFC for cross members. I will be happy if it comes in under what I have calculated. I shall keep you posted.

Hi Brett,
Mine 4.5 ton trailer weighed 880kgs finished ungalvanised, then once galvanised took it back over the scales and it came in at 900kgs!!!!
Only 20kgs of galvanising. The main frame was built from 125x75x3mm C450 grade steel & the welding wire had to be 1 grade up from C450 grade as advised by my engineer.
I noticed in the pics your rear trailer lights seem a fair way up under the boat. You might want to check the regs on that as I can't remember the maximium distance.
My opinion Brett, if your going to register it over 3500kgs you may as well get it rated to 4500kgs ( if built to that rating ) as you will still need to get a roadworthy every year at rego renewal plus you'll have that extra buffer.
Least that way, you won't get a fine for the trailer being overloaded if you go over the 4000kgs.
Cheers Rob.

[brett62]

Yep, got it. Will call when I get home.

[Moejoes]

Moejoes I agree the lights may be a issue and I may have to move them back some. Your number plate must be seen from a 45 deg angle. I spoke to the inspection station about a few issues to get some advice and they said that boat trailers sometimes due to there design may not meet all the requirements to the letter and there are some concessions with regards to lighting. I will see how I go.

I will only be going for the 4 ton as that is my axle rating and will be ok with that. If the trailer was a general purpose I would have built to 4.5 ton. Its only ever going to have the boat on it. Your weight figures are interesting, I have just worked the weight out from the steel manufactures data and the weight of the running gear from the suppliers information as with the galvanising from the gents that did the work. The trailer is 150 x 50 x 4mm and 150 x 50 x 5mm RHS and 100mm PFC for cross members. I will be happy if it comes in under what I have calculated. I shall keep you posted.

Cheers Brett,
By memory when I had mine upgraded to 4.5ton the inspector set it as 4100kgs on the axles & 400kgs on the drawbar.
Check that out, as you may be able to have 4000kgs on the axles & say 350 to 400kgs on the drawbar bringing your total trailer rating to 4350 or 4400kgs, hence why you would need these scales to ensure compliance.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301564977...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I can send you the inspectors details, might be worth the chat.
Rob.

[brett62]

Thanks Rob the contact details would be great.

[brett62]

Last trip home I started to assemble the trailer. I only have a couple of items left now and can see the end at last. I rust proofed the trailer and used 7L of 506 and 3L of fish oil on the outside and still need to do the internals of the main rails. I tried to do with out runs but gave up and just pour it on. I used a body gun which also I use for spraying the internals.

I have also attached a break down of the materials and cost of the project for anyone interested. Now that I am all but completed I looked back to see what I would have done differently if I was building again. The only thing I would change would be using Galvanised rims. I had them down to balance the other day and they are twisted from the hot dip process. So I will be buying new rims to replace them. I would also use a mig to do the welding to save a lot of time cleaning welds before galvanising.
Next time I am home from work I will be getting the inspection and registering. I am looking forward to getting the finished weight of the trailer