Boat Trailer project

[giddyup58]

You won't need a winch with that trailer.
Just make sure that you set the rollers up properly.
Best test - detach from winchpost and watch it self launch.
You'll work out a painter system to stop it running away.
I used to drive my Bertie 25 upto the winchpost.
Major PITA to muck about with electric winches.
Get a cheap 3 speed manual winch with 15:1 low gear to get the last 6".

[brett62]

Has been sometime since I have worked on the new trailer due to working away and other projects the wife has been waiting for but back into it now.

Have started installing the running gear and fabrication of the wobble roller frames and keel rollers. Working on the rear end first as you can see from the photos and the plan is to finish the roller frames for the rest of the trailer next time I am home. Picked up the 14 off keel rollers and the 58 off wobble rollers over Christmas for a good price. I also installed 24mm s/s 316 roller pins for the keel rollers and that should make maintenance a lot less, expensive but well worth it.

Still have a large amount of work to go but it's moving forward. I only hope it doesn't rust away before I get it to the galvaniser as I was hoping to have completed by Christmas. I will be trial fitting the boat on it once I complete the rollers and winch post just to make sure all is good.

I want to put something around the wobble roller frames to protect the bow when retrieving and wonder what ideas some of you have come up with ? I built the back section so it pivots down to catch the bow for driving on and I still have a few pads and rollers to install in the keel area where the bow comes in. I am trying to stop any chance of the boat coming into contact with unprotected steel.

[ozscott]

I say dont galvinise. when you get stone chips etc it gets underneath. And you have to drill holes through all your cross members and retap all your roller fittings and it costs a lot.
I have made and galvinised a couple of trailers. Next time I am just 2pack tar epoxy painting.
or there is another paint called light industrial coating (LIC)
and filling with oil.
My 22ft boat trailer I had to do this anyway over the galvinising after it started to deteriorate.

I used to have a gal axle till I bent it and I replaced with black steel but wrapped in denso tape.

I had a similiar thought. I used closed box with fishoil inside (and completely sealed) - I just checked after over a year of service and nil water in the rails. And on the outside Xtroll Rust Conqueror UV, 2 coats, followed by 2 coats of Xtroll Gal paint. The RC has higher specific gravity than water and goes everywhere and dries hard and clear (just a sligt gold ting). I even did my anodised axles in the same stuff. To date zero rust with full dunking each trip.

Cheers

[brett62]

I have looked at sandblasting and filling the rails and then painting. I can get the complete trailer galvanised for around $1500 which I think is a good price. I wont have to re-tap roller fittings as I have made the adjustment bolts so they are not welded so they are easy replaced.

My plan is to galvanise and then spraying inside the RHS section with rust proofing as I have the equipment to do. The trailer rails will not be used to run cables/brake line etc. All this will be run in steel conduits outside. I am installing a wash down system inside the RHS rails that I can just connect the hose too when hosing down the trailer. I am also thinking of installing some sprays over the brake areas to give them a good wash also.

I will need to sandblast and paint the axles as they are only black steel. I have 50sq axles and require a 2 ton rating per axle and was told that I would get that if they were hot dipped as this reduces the rating. Purchased 4.5 ton rated springs and the same deal with them also. ozscott did you do your springs with the same system ?

[bigjimg]

photo 2.jpgphoto 1 (1).jpgphoto 4.jpgG'day Brett, Looking good, the stainless keel roller shaft is a good move. I just swapped out mine these and the gal shafts were rusting nicely.
For the wobble roller arms I fitted HDPE water pipe custom cut to fit over them and so far they are working well. There are no fixings used as they expand over the arm and then return to a closed state. Jim

[brett62]

photo 2.jpgphoto 1 (1).jpgphoto 4.jpgG'day Brett, Looking good, the stainless keel roller shaft is a good move. I just swapped out mine these and the gal shafts were rusting nicely.
For the wobble roller arms I fitted HDPE water pipe custom cut to fit over them and so far they are working well. There are no fixings used as they expand over the arm and then return to a closed state. Jim

Thanks Jim. That looks like the go.

Jim where did you get the HDPE from ?

[bigjimg]

Jim where did you get the HDPE from ?

Brett I used off cuts from a work project. You can try any plumbing or irrigation supplier I would think. Jim.

[brett62]

Jim where did you get the HDPE from ?

Brett I used off cuts from a work project. You can try any plumbing or irrigation supplier I would think. Jim.

Thanks mate.

I will get hold of some. It will certainly give me a little more protection for the planning stakes when driving on. They sit about 30mm down from the hull and if you don't get it right when driving on I will have some repairing to do. Thanks for the photos and the advice.

[Rip it up]

HDPE or poly pipe also comes in a few different colours if you want to get fancy. Orange for electrical, purple for sewage, yellow for gas. Etc.

Will provide many years of service.

Or you can chase down a plastics supplier in the major towns, and get a 40mm solid bar of teflon and split it into two half moons. Then fasten the halls onto your wobble bracket tops. Maybe more expensive, just, but a cleaner looking trailer and can be purchased in white, red, black etc to match your rollers or paint choice.

The product I used last time for offline steel protection was called "Irod" used in the pipeline industry as a skid under steel pipes on the pipe racks. Very dense. Very slippery.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420872861.865785.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1420872870.872317.jpg


Damo's dodgy boat building factory.

[Rip it up]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420872979.049377.jpg


Damo's dodgy boat building factory.

[Moejoes]

Hi Brett,
I built a similar trailer but with skids.
Just watch those gal springs. They become brittle in the galvanising process & will snap leaves on you.
I had to go back to standard black steel ones because of this problem.
If not already done, ensure you have a 70mm ball or pintle ring setup & rated safety chains. Must be stamped.
You can get these from Couplemate - Tingalpa - Links below.
https://www.couplemate.com.au/traile...-adr-approved/
https://www.couplemate.com.au/traile...n-pintle-hook/
https://www.couplemate.com.au/traile...ring-coupling/

Cheers Rob

Attachment 107142
Attachment 107140Attachment 107141

[burleygu]

galvanisers down near the Brisbane river are cheaper then narangba

[Moejoes]

I used NGI.
Can't remember how much but was a good price.
Cost me $420 in transport to get there & back.
http://www.natgalv.com.au/easyweb3/W...p_code-contact

[brett62]

HDPE or poly pipe also comes in a few different colours if you want to get fancy. Orange for electrical, purple for sewage, yellow for gas. Etc.

Will provide many years of service.

Or you can chase down a plastics supplier in the major towns, and get a 40mm solid bar of teflon and split it into two half moons. Then fasten the halls onto your wobble bracket tops. Maybe more expensive, just, but a cleaner looking trailer and can be purchased in white, red, black etc to match your rollers or paint choice.

The product I used last time for offline steel protection was called "Irod" used in the pipeline industry as a skid under steel pipes on the pipe racks. Very dense. Very slippery.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1420872861.865785.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1420872870.872317.jpg


Damo's dodgy boat building factory.

I can see some places that will work on the trailer for me. Thanks

[brett62]

[QUOTE=Moejoes;1575615]Hi Brett,
I built a similar trailer but with skids.
Just watch those gal springs. They become brittle in the galvanising process & will snap leaves on you.
I had to go back to standard black steel ones because of this problem.
If not already done, ensure you have a 70mm ball or pintle ring setup & rated safety chains. Must be stamped.
You can get these from Couplemate - Tingalpa - Links below.


I have the 70mm coupling as I am going for 4 ton rating. I also don't have gal springs or axles for the same reason you have mentioned. I am also going to use NGI for the galvanising. I found them very helpful with information and the price was better than else where.

I downloaded all the regulations prior to building the trailer and glad I had as there were a few items I would have missed. Regulations have changed since last time I put a trailer together.