PHP Warning: Use of undefined constant VBA_SCRIPT - assumed 'VBA_SCRIPT' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in ..../includes/functions_navigation.php(802) : eval()'d code on line 1 advice on hooking up electronics/lights etc.
rigging up the electrics in the tinny over the weekend and looking for some advice .
planning a small kingboard box to house it all, 250X350x50mm to fit between ribs.
usual stuff -
switch panel
nav and anchor lights
under gunnel lights
bilge pump
bait tank pump
cigarette plug
electronics -
hds 7t
27meg radio
nmea backbone (to hook up the yammie)
1- can i have all these items hooked up to the bus bars within the box or should i run the electronics back to the battery?
2- will there be any interference to the sounder/nmea backbone or radio if i have it all housed in a small kingboard box?
3- can i cut the Garmin (nmea kit is garmin) power cable so it is not a coil of excess cable inside the box? and what is the shield drain for and what do i do with it?
4- is 6mm2 cable enough to run to the bus bars? seems pretty thick, and what fuse rating for this bus bar supply? do i add up all the equipments power usage?
5- can all this and the transducer cables x2 and areal cord run in loom tube without interference?
6- the bilge pump is a automatic rule type with manual override, main power to batt and override power to switch, will this drain my battery?
thats all for now but im sure there will be more as the weekend progresses.
thanks all.
cheers
edit: damn id better number them so i dont get confused.
1 and 4. Yes. Hook it all to the buss bars and run one heavy cable in. 6mm is typically regarded to be good for a supply feed. I would normally use a 25-30 amp fuse at the battery end to protect this cable. By only having the one heavy conection it keeps it neat and tidy and easy to maintain.
2. Given it is a 27Meg - more than likely but you wont know until you try it. The sounder and NMEA2K backbone should be ok. 27Meg is an inherantly noisy radio reception medium. It is generally interfered with by just about everything. This is one of the reasons it has all but disappeared. Even by running your radio cables entirely seperate there is no guarantee you will not have noise issues. You may even have issues with the charging output of your motor interfering with the radio. If you can run the radio cables independantly in a fashion that is neat and acceptable this will give it the best chance but if it is a hassle I personally wouldn't bother.
3. Yes. It is only power. The shield wire should be connected to the negative bus as well as the negative. Make sure the correct rated fuse is reinstalled in the positive line. The backbone should also be powered through a switch as if there are any active devices on the network it will drain the battery when not in use.
5. Interferance is unfortunately one of those things that some times happens and sometimes doesn't. As such anyone who states yes or no is simply guessing. All the manufacturers tend to tell you to run their cables seperate to everything else to cover their own bums should there be a problem. In reality it is almost impossible to do. If it was mine I would simply do it and if you do get interferance attempt to sort it out later.
6. If the pump simply has an internal float switch, no. If however it uses an electronic probe to monitor bilge conditions - yes. Personally I would fit a battery master switch that kills power to everything when turned off and wire the second input to the cold side of this switch. Don't forget to fuse this line as well.
Forgot to mention the radio won't be mounted in the box it will be on top with bracket and just realised the arial cable runs forward anyway so won't be in the same loom as all the sensitive stuff, not to mention I'll hardly use it anyway caus I hardly go offshore just needed it "if" I want to go out.
Guess I Was more worried about electrical interference running the sounder off the buss bar while other accessories are running.
Bilge pump is a sensor type not float so that's a bummer..
Does the yamaha f60 need to bypass the battery switch if I use one, never had one before.
The radio may still get interference but if all it's for is as stated you can shut everything else down if required.Electrical noise into the sounder is extremely rare. I have seen the odd occurance but could count them on one hand in 20 years of installing them with the outboard being the most likely cause. I haven't seen or heard of any isssues with the yamaha. With the bilge pump you have two options - fit a battery master so it is only on when the master goes live or change the switch in your panel to a 3 position giving you a auto - off - manual type arrangement. Either option involves you remembering to turn a switch off but the panel option means that you dont have to kill power to everything to do it. The F60 will quite happily start through a battery switch provided it is of sufficent amperage. Personally I like to isolate batterys during storage periods and the switch is a quick and easy way of doing this. Other than that you can always disconnect the old fashioned way.
On another note, if the radio is only for emergency use, try and mount it out of the weather. Your box may be out of spray etc and if so thats fine. With all this sort of gear the dryer you keep it, typically the less problems you will have. I know the literature says it's probably waterproof. Time in the industry tells me that there is no such animal.
Best of luck with it. Try not to let the magic smoke out.
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