PK
splash deflectors so the cowling wouldn't get so soaked?
Good question! I foolishly fitted the bungs on the inside edge of the pods and the net result was that at high planning speed there was a lot of spray created.
I fixed the spray issue by cutting the tabs / finger handles off the bungs so solved the spray issue but when the pics were taken I had not done so.
Solution is to either not fit bungs or if you do fit them on the rear of the pod which is what I should have done, or not at all if the welder is good. I only fitted the bungs where I did to protect them on the occasions that the tinny was stood up on its bum for when it was to be carried upside down on the GQ roof racks.
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Joey, I have finally got the details of my outboard and it is a long shaft, according to the Honda distributors. The anti-ventilation plate is about level with the bottom of the keel, which may not be optimal, at least from what I have read. The bloke there was saying that the anti-vent plate should be 1 to 1.5 inches about the lowest part of the floor.
Last edited by PeterKroll; 31-10-2013 at 04:36 PM. Reason: More info
I was under the impression that the stock props on the older Honda's were not very good. A relative in Townsville has a 40HP Honda and he changed to a Solas with excellent results. The whole 16 knots thing is strange. My 396 Clark Magnum 25 HP 2 stroke Yammy does 47Km/H with a bowmount on the front. My fathers 4.2 M TABS with a 4 stroke 30HP Yammy does about 23 Knots.
Davo, I've been so happy just to finally have a little boat that none of these things have mattered. So now I've had it for a while, and I love having it, but it seems that I can't help tweaking it. I'm a big bloke, and it's a bit unstable and handles chop and boat wakes badly, so there are reasons..
Now I don't expect much from a tiny beast, but I really just want to have it running optimally. So current plans are pods and a new prop. But now I wonder if the motor is sitting too low? So I guess I need to look at that first. This is getting complicated!!
By the way, I got the speed from the GPS on my Ipad. According to everything I've just read, it should be reasonably accurate. However, I have the Navionics app on the Ipad and also on my Nexus 4 phone. So I'll do a comparison next time I'm on the water. Could be tomorrow hopefully.
By the way, Joey, I have ordered the rpm meter from China. We'll see how it goes.
Chimo. do you remember offhand what thickness of plate was used? I saw some pretty thin aluminium toolboxes in Bunnings (the little brothers of the kind that go in the back of utes. I thought one of those chopped in half might do the trick).
Yeah I only ordered the rpm meter on Wednesday so shall see how mine goes too. When you get it and know WOT rpm's report back/compare them to your recommended max rpm's.
Yes, I have the Clymer manual which gives me all that stuff. Pity I don't understand more of it.
PK
I don't know what he used but the tool box is probably only 1.6mm and the issue will be the welding of that thin a material unless your welder is brilliant.
However I have just used some 1.6 checker plate which I think is the same as the tool boxes and its way too thin to walk on.
My pods are fine to stand on which makes me think that they were made from much thicker, stiffer material, maybe 3 or 4 mm.
Compared with the cost of getting pods built to suit the boat transom and follow the plane of the bottom to give you the benefit of bouyancy and tabs and or a longer boat I doubt I would skimp on the aluminium plate. If you have a good welder you probably should not put bungs in it either if you reckon the pod is watertight. You can always add them later if they are needed.
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Good advice, Chimo, thanks.
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