Ride Quality- TRUE plate boat vs fibreglass

[PB]

Good point Myusernam, but you will find a lot for the hulls that have a deep dead rise carry the same angle from the transom to almost the full waterline length, where is a lot of the plate boats these day start out at say 16 degrees at the transom and increase the angle dramatically along the length of the hull with some of them being close to 30 degrees at the LCG and pushing 45-50 degrees at the bow even more in some cases, giving the boat good stability at rest and a soft ride. Least time i check you dive the boat in a forward direction meaning bow first through the water. a hull with a sharper entry has more relevance than a boat with a deep dead rise at the transom.

[myusernam]

I knew I would get that response (read it in manufacturers blurbs) but I'm not so sure. It works up to a point but when it's snotty and you are using the full length of the boat a flat arse is a flat arse. They have to go slow much slower. I should specify that I am in townsville and am mainly talking reef boats (or wannabee reef boats) that travel minimum 40nm one way to the reef. Look at all of the favoured mono's for that sort of work. none of them have moderate v transoms. I think if you want to do over twenty knots in 10-15 of chop then a WIDE flat bum isn't going to help no matter how fine the entry. quintrex's have a sharp entry! not only do the glass boats have a deeper v but they usually have a longer waterline length to beam ratio. (narrower beam).
Also another thing with the types of hull you describe with the sharp entry at the bow does is effectively reduce the waterline length. those big sharp raked bows mean that by the time you start getting into a meaningfull bit of hull from the sharp point of the bow you only have less of the hull running through the water. (Some of those 6m plate boats you mention only run on about 5m of hull) In the short sharp NQ chop waterline length is king and you are better of with the longest possible hull in the water.

[ric]

I knew I would get that response (read it in manufacturers blurbs) but I'm not so sure. It works up to a point but when it's snotty and you are using the full length of the boat a flat arse is a flat arse. They have to go slow much slower. I should specify that I am in townsville and am mainly talking reef boats (or wannabee reef boats) that travel minimum 40nm one way to the reef. Look at all of the favoured mono's for that sort of work. none of them have moderate v transoms. I think if you want to do over twenty knots in 10-15 of chop then a WIDE flat bum isn't going to help no matter how fine the entry. quintrex's have a sharp entry! not only do the glass boats have a deeper v but they usually have a longer waterline length to beam ratio. (narrower beam).
Also another thing with the types of hull you describe with the sharp entry at the bow does is effectively reduce the waterline length. those big sharp raked bows mean that by the time you start getting into a meaningfull bit of hull from the sharp point of the bow you only have less of the hull running through the water. (Some of those 6m plate boats you mention only run on about 5m of hull) In the short sharp NQ chop waterline length is king and you are better of with the longest possible hull in the water.

I didnt realise you were talking NQ chop!! In that case its about what sort of cat you are after

[outwide1]

This would ride ok
http://www.marineauctions.com.au/?m=11&id=1476

And thats the builder i have decided to go with.
I have spoken to a lot of the people he has built boats for and they are overly impressed with what he produces.
Mick.

[zan0_15]

And thats the builder i have decided to go with.
I have spoken to a lot of the people he has built boats for and they are overly impressed with what he produces.
Mick.

I spoke with Sam today mick and he is doing me up a quote.
Seems like a good genuine bloke and im looking forward to getting the quote through.
Also getting 2 other quotes from other builders so it will be good to compare.
Zane.

[SunnyCoastMark]

This would ride ok
http://www.marineauctions.com.au/?m=11&id=1476

OMG - what a boat - that is nothing but pure boat porn!!

I think I'm in love........

To Auction after only 5 hours?? - Wonder what the story is there?

Mark

[SunnyCoastMark]

for some reason plate manufacturers seem to insist on making moderate vee boats. The make these massive high sided wide super bouyant boats so I guess they can't have too deep a vee. Homestly almost all with the exception of fisher and noble in the 6.5m range and below and especially in the 4.5 - 5.8m range have poxy 12 or 16 degree v's at the transom. sure they might be wide and high sided but at the end of the day it's all about V and a lot of the good riding glass boats have much deeper v's, even in the smaller sizes. There are ways around it of course. Just design it so it's a bit narrower or put in a flooded keel, more tankage or even ballast tanks. I dont think there is any reason why you couldn't make it ride awesom, just a design mentality for these big huge volumous boats with small deadrise. Looks good in the showroom

Hey My,username - I'm pretty sure the answer to that is -you can't have to much deadrise with a lighter ally hull. They wouldn't sit deep enough in the water and would be even more unstable at rest or slow speeds than a similar glass boat.
As you say - they could go floodable keels or ballast tanks, however that would add significantly to the cost and then everyone would be building Bar Crushers.

I would like to see the insides of a bar crusher hull after 15- 20 years - I reckon there would be some serious corrosion issues........... just sayin....

[johncar]

Just saying because I have owned various good quality boats in both materials, it is certainly more about the design and balance of the boat rather than what it is made out of and every design has it's pros and cons IMHO.
I am also not convinced that you need a 20+ degree deadrise at the transom being the main attribute to have a softer riding boat. It seems more relevant what happens at the bow and midships including waterline length a big factor. I am thinking perhaps a variable deadrise can give a softer ride although perhaps not as fast.
But to answer the main question yeah it has been my experience that a well designed and built ally plate hull will perform equally to a well designed and built glass hull. There is no reason why it shouldn't, the weights are very similar and the planing parameters are too. An ally hull will generally be a little noisier on the water which can give a perception of hitting the water a bit harder but being in a foam filled ally hull this is even quietened down significantly similar to glass.
Just be careful with any purchase as there are some failures out there from any builder.

I would be happy to own either as they both have their good points although I do like the toughness of the plate ally when it comes to contacting the bottom. The odd graze on the plate hull doesn't seem as distressing as chunks of gelcoat and resin broken out. A plate boat will take a bit more maintenance to maintain a nice finish and appearance though if that is important too you and you need to be more careful with electrolysis issues. Consider things like paint and bog very carefully and I would rather not put any on the hull opting for vinyl and Nyalic being easier to touch up or repair.

[outwide1]

Sounds good Zane.
Just like Dave at Riptide Sam is busy too but worth the wait.
I would consider them the 2 very good plate alloy boat builders.
Did you tell Sam you had been chatting to me?
Look forward to seeing what and who you have build a boat.
Cheers Mick.

[bannana]

And thats the builder i have decided to go with.
I have spoken to a lot of the people he has built boats for and they are overly impressed with what he produces.
Mick.

Mick i think you should just go to this auction and attempt to pick this one up for a steal.
What an awesome looking piece of work. If the ride is 10% as good as it looks it would be on the top of my list. What a cracker!!!

I'm curious as to what this boat cost to build? I will go to the auction just to have a look .... surely its a 250K+ boat?

Good luck with your new build looking forward to the pics.

Keith

[Moonlighter]

I would like to see the insides of a bar crusher hull after 15- 20 years - I reckon there would be some serious corrosion issues........... just sayin....

I dont understand what you are getting at here...... .??

Unless I am missing your point, the flooding keel is made of the same alloy as the hull, the outside of which is in the salt water too, and the inside drains out as the boat is retrieved, so it is no different to the outside of the hull.

So am struggling to see what you are getting at with this comment about corrosion "on the insides"?? The insides of what?

[outwide1]

Mick i think you should just go to this auction and attempt to pick this one up for a steal.
What an awesome looking piece of work. If the ride is 10% as good as it looks it would be on the top of my list. What a cracker!!!

I'm curious as to what this boat cost to build? I will go to the auction just to have a look .... surely its a 250K+ boat?

Good luck with your new build looking forward to the pics.

Keith

Gday Keith,i spoke to Pepi last night who had it originally built.He was saying they sold it to the current owner for $120-130000 i think. Then you would be looking at about $90000 for the engines and the list goes on.So they would of been out of pocket of $220000 then all the rest of the gear etc.
Don't quote me on this but i believe the current owners spent about $300000+by the time they fitted the entire ship out.lol
Mate it is one horn looking boat and makes that ford falcon look little beside it.
My good mate Luke with the riptide was trying to convince me to go halfs.lol
Be interesting to see what it goes for.
Cheers Mick.

[outwide1]

A couple more from the guys at Performance Plate Boats.

[fisho8]

I have a surtees 6.1 gamefisher the Surtees have a great ride and was great value for money. I have been in a 8mtr PPB and the ride was pretty average IMO pounded quite a bit too much for me. Surtees have 5mm bottoms and 4mm sides and are great in the chop. I like the AMM they are an awesome platey the 6.8 weekender would be my pick. Also have a look at the White Pointers they are a nice plate boat aswell.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4O4DafqzxWA

http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-fo...&Ridx=4&eapi=2



Good luck with whatever you go with mate.

Cheers Mick.

[Redhunter]

Mick when I was coming in last week I saw keleyrose charters going out the same brand of boat that your getting built ,you should of seen the straights just down from the barges it was rough,you would not think so being inside, she looked like she, can take on the rough stuff.

steve