There must be a good story behind it all. You don't put s boat like that up for auction after just 5 hours use, by choice.Originally Posted by outwide1
There must be a good story behind it all. You don't put s boat like that up for auction after just 5 hours use, by choice.
fruit salad is the new Bacon
I dunno how any times I have read the same thread starter over the years.
It's about horses for courses..........fiberglass....if you go with a variable dead-rise fiberglass hull you will be sacrificing ride for fuel economy (but gaining sporty also, VD hulls are comparatively sporty)...it's up to the designer of the hull what proportion of each they chose to incorporate.
Be wary of marketing.....VD hulls simply will not ride like constant deadrise hulls...it's a physical (read 'in physics') impossibility.
If you choose a traditional hull design you will sacrifice fuel for the cushy-er ride (all things equal this means a lower pitch prop at least for length and weight)...given that a 4 stroke of the same HP doesn't equal power transferred to the water per CC of the same 2 stroke then you cannot have both...you simply cannot because water has force and ones hull had mass and area and angle.
Plate hulls..it's very hard ..too hard?.... to incorporate VD engineeering into these...so they more resemble traditional hulls...some plate designers to emulate VD hulls will make extra low deadrise plate hulls, these have a sporty feel and will hurt the back teeth with their thumping when away from the estuary or lake environment.
Proper Plate hull = deadrise at the transom rules, rules absolute because to get the transom dead-rise the forefoot of the hull must comply to create it, if following established rules....same as any fiberglass hull, yes it will use more fuel, yes need you will need to run a pitch lower compared to the fibreglass VD hull, yes it will lean into corners, yes it will not feel 'jetski sporty like' but at the end of the the days offshore trip the bones and the filling's in the back teeth will thank you, not mention you where able to travel in the proper snotty stuff on the plane or at least outrun every VD hull of the same length back to ramp..
Just a glance at any hull will give those with experienced the straight up understanding of its actual ride..it's simple physics every time.
good luck.
by memory Keely rose is a 9mtr sea life design boat. very very nice....
take a feed & leave the rest to breed
No two boats are ever the same. Change of outboard, weight distribution blah blah blah.
I had an AMM built 12 years ago and it was the worst boat I have ever owned however so many people rate them so obviously there a good boat and mine just wasn't set up correctly and I wasn't experienced enough at the time to know better so just sold it after a short period.
My mate had two Vagabonds and both powered differently and both performed differently. He was never happy with the second new one he bought because simply it didn't go as good as his first one and cost a shit load more!!!
I've spent a bit of time in 3 * 2700 Noosacats and they too all performed totally differently. Its hard to believe but obviously they have similar characteristic but one you would troll all day in because it sat high in the water (lighter) while another (heavier..in survey) banged the shit out of you and you would throw the towel in after an hr.
You will find the boats that you go for a ride in and are usually really impressed with are the ones the owners take a great deal of time in getting set up right, in particular after delivery.
My Noosacat has been back to the factory 4 times in a year and i'm lucky to have a boat builder that has worked with me through the whole process to achieve what I paid for no matter how irrelevant it seemed to them at the time. This cant be said about every boat builder but if you can find a good person to deal with and willing to help you at the most crucial time and thats after you have paid them and taken delivery, then feel confident you will get what your after. It just takes time to set up a boat right and there is so much that can be done to tweak it so your happy at the end of the day.
Here's just one example of what Noosacat have done for me since delivery almost a year ago.
Changed props multiple times.
Changed engine heights twice.
Had pods removed and raised 40mm (2 days work)- This raised the bow when travelling by removing buoyancy from the rear.
End result .5ltr per k more fuel efficient and increased top end speed by 5 knots no more cavitation in 25+ knot seas and far better riding boat from the one I picked up. Keep in mind they only did a water test and it went awesome on that day however I was able to spend 150hrs in it in many sea conditions and work out it's flaws and my preferences and this is what they have helped me sort.
To anyone who gets a boat built good luck, it's exciting and rewarding at the end of the day but you only get what you put in.
Cheers
Keith
I guess I was more putting the question out there. - Nothing wrong with the concept - however - the design makes getting to all the little cracks and crevices inside the hull (or ballast tanks) difficult - therefore it is unlikely that salt will ever be washed out completely.
Over time - this could potentially result in significant corrosion. Once the corrosion starts - it grows like a cancer - and you would never know it's there until you start emptying out all this water through your bungs each trip - and you will wonder where it is coming from as everything looks OK.
Does anyone know if the plates used that form the ballast tanks are welded on the inside of the hull (that is not exposed to sea water) - or on the outside. - Bit hard to explain with out drawing it - but I guess what I am asking is are there any crevices left exposed to the sea water where the salt will just sit - trapped? The outside of the hull is easy to wash down - you can get to everywhere - but not so much with the inside of the ballast tanks....
Barcrushers haven't been around that long - so I guess it's early days yet.
To my mind - something like a twin 300 or 450 dia. tubes (sealed at one end) running each side of the keel - would be better - as there are no cracks, crevices or edges to hold salt (electrolytes) that start the corrosion process.
Hope I explained that OK.
Anyway not to hijack the thread talking about Bar Crushers - I too have been in both types and would take ally plate for the maintenance, weight and ease of modifications/customisation factor.
Mark
The simple thing to do is water test everything that you're thinking of buying .....being careful that it is exactly where you want to go. The VMR squadron that I'm a member of have a system where when choosing a boat, they relate everything to their current or previous boat on a score sheet from 1 to 5 where 3 is the old boat, then test in areas that you want to see result ( rough handling , stability etc )...add up the numbers at the end of the day and the highest score wins....keeps the wank factor out but don't forget to include the price in your selections ( including the new F truck that you may need to legally tow it ) good luck, either way you will have a boat for life with Fibreglass or a true girder framed plate boat.
This might answer your question Mark this is how the ballast tanks are set up in the surtees.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rG3JZrV_Cm8
LOVIN THE GOOD TIMES FAMILY AND FRIENDS LOVE THE SPORT TIGHT LINES PEOPLE.....
IMG_6533.jpgHi Zan0_15,
as a previous owner of Cruisecraft 6.25 & 6.85 & Haines Hunter 680 Patriot i thought i would share my experience with regards your questions.
A good mate of mine & I chose Origin boats to build a 7m Evolution mono hull based on the following
1.Col's proven record for build quality
2.Origin's sound financial positon,giving me confidence in the security of my build
3.I wanted a dry and smooth riding hull (21deg deadrise & water ballast)
4.Custom fit out
5.After sales service
I am pleased to advise that 4 months after taking delivery i couldn't be happier with the boat & the experience dealing with Col & Origin boats.I am super impressed with the smooth dry ride & as important the performance of the boat in all sea conditions.
Col's recommendation of the Suzuki 250 was spot on as well.
Am also over the moon with the Custom Origin Alloy trailer.
another 1st on a boat of mine was the Garmin Auto pilot,i would never own a boat again without one.
If your in Brisbane & want to have a look at "ambition" let me know i would be only to happy to show you & share my experience.
I started to read this and thought yippee some comparisons between Cruisecraft, Haines and a plate. This will be a good read, being a Haines glass owner. Well pickle me grandmother, it's an ad for Origin. Good boats. No doubt about that, and the trailer keeps em steady on the water.
Actually I was also curious to hear what the comparison was between The Criuse Craft, Haines Patriot and The Origin Platey
Love the ally trailer - It's certainly a work of art.
Anything else to add??
Mark
Ballast chambers are constructed differently by each builder and even from boat to boat, but most normally on the outside.
The exception would be the Formosa Sea Rod boats which have an extruded radius corner RHS curved and formed to shape - no joins.
Not being cheeky, but from your ferry days you might remember there was little or no thought given to how someone will service it in 10+ years anyway. Let alone 20 yrs !!
A Proud Member of
"The Rebel Alliance"
shouldn't have sent post during work time,i guess I was a bit rushed in answering the actual question
I am probably like most fisherman quite proud & biased about their own boat & I wanted to share (as I like reading on here what others share)my views,
having owned the previous boats I wanted the best of all worlds,as we all do ,lots of room, dry smooth ride & steady at rest
And a damn descent trailer !!!!! there are some very average mass produced ones out there
I will start with the Patriot 680 250 Yamaha 4 stroke. I found it a very dry boat,fantasic performance hull at sea ,ie smooth ride good in following sea,quite unstable at rest vs Cruisecraft,trim tabs were standard fitment I believe & was first boat I ever owned with them & quickly found that they make a lot of difference,mine didn't have kill tanks in the floor 2005 model, so I found by the time you put enough eskies on board for bait,food/drinks & an esky for the unlucky fish there was just not enough room in it for what I wanted.
The 625 outsider was a great boat 175HPDI Yamaha ,felt good in following sea,banged a fair bit ,wet as anything -took a lot of water over the front,very stable at rest but I reckon was a great 1st offshore boat due to how stable it always felt.
685 Explorer 225 Mercury Optimax,another great boat,lots more room than 625 outsider-all on deck,still quite wet,and again very stable at rest,should have had trim tabs I reckon.
I have parted with my hard earned for my share of our boat I am extremely happy with it,
Lots of Room
Dry Soft ride,
Very stable at rest
& the trailer keeps it steady on the road !!!!! not the water ????
HaHa - there were quite a few animated conversations with the marine "engineers & architects" about that and many other topics........
To this day - I still believe that any architects, Engineers, designers of any product - be it a house, boat,piece of machinery, electronic circuitry, whatever - need to have spent some time employed on the tools - before they can earn their degree - The world would be a much simpler place for it.......
Mark
i work on medical equipment and occasionaly visit the factory. I would love to get the guys who designed as few bits of gear and make them disasemble and reassemble 10 times in a row and see if it changes anything
Yes please!
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