Epoxy yellowing

[BARICK]

Do you think the yellowing on white thread is because the epoxy yellows no matter what and it's easier to see the contrast over the colour white, or can it be avoided using CP first even though you might be using NCP white thread?
I've noticed that Bullards D2 is a clearer epoxy than the TM I'm using at the moment. I haven't tried using the ProCote epoxy yet but maybe soon.
I like using the TM Light Formula because I can get a longer working life out of it but it is more yellow out of the bottle to begin with.

[Willo]

Do you think the yellowing on white thread is because the epoxy yellows no matter what and it's easier to see the contrast over the colour white, or can it be avoided using CP first even though you might be using NCP white thread?
I've noticed that Bullards D2 is a clearer epoxy than the TM I'm using at the moment. I haven't tried using the ProCote epoxy yet but maybe soon.
I like using the TM Light Formula because I can get a longer working life out of it but it is more yellow out of the bottle to begin with.

From what I have read up on all epoxies yellow to a degree but some more than other ....and as you said white enhances it..
As I said before I really like Bullards D2...But would like to test out the ProKote as well ...seem to yellow less
At the Moment Billy Vivona is doing a test on facebook with ProKote and thread Master and other mixes..
He has made up samples ...and put tinfoil over half of the sample and leaving them for awhile in the sunlight ..so down the track a bit we will see the results

[grave41]

I also hate white and won't use it. I have just started using pro kote on the last. 4 rods and like it but it must be mixed exactly or your drying time will take forever, but it flows and levels nicely also Gary Howard distributes it cheaper than I can purchase Fromm overseas as well as there thread. Graham

[Owen]

The worst epoxy I have seen for yellowing was Erskines.
I currently use threadmaster and DII, but I haven't used the DII on light colours so I don't have results to compare.
I suspect they would both yellow to some degree, especially in Australia whereas in the US or Europe you wouldn't see it as quickly because of the lower UV.

There's some good reading to be found on the net.

http://www.epoxyschool.com/blog/?p=215

http://www.epoxyschool.com/blog/?p=245

http://protective.sherwin-williams.c...common-causes/

[Willo]

Totally agree with ya about Erskins,Owen
Erskins wasn't all that flexiable either

[Stuart]

Erskins is toe jam.

[Stuart]

Simply mixing up some coating and then leaving it in the sun doesn't cut it for me. When I test epoxies I use a UV light. I poor the epoxy on A4 paper, then I let it cure for a couple of days. Then I sit it under the light 24 hours a day for at least 2 weeks. Thats sorts the men from the boys.

Its much like the corrosion comparison tests, the test of quality is apparently soaking alloy components in salt water. Not to sure what this is meant to demonstrate because the anodized coating is a great barrier. However if you scratch it up like what happens in the reel world then you begin to see the quality of these products.

My point is, dont belive everything a book or web site says, in most cases the people or companies making these claims don't build rods, hardly ever fish and wouldn't build more than a handful of rods each year. Years ago, I was burnt by outlandish claims made by manufactures and wholesalers. Off course there was no warranty, no standing behind their products they sold or backing up the claims made. Cost me thousands of dollars fixing up rods. From that point, I made the decision to test everything in my own way using the harshest methods.

Epoxy is one of those industries that still make much the same claims as they were 20 years ago. It appears that the more things change, the more they stay the same. Its very rare for me to endorse any product, but Im fairly confident in Pro cote, off course that could change if they change, simple isnt it?

Stu

[Stuart]

Forgot to mention. I have 6 chair rods that have lived on the back deck of a large charter game boat. It travels from NSW to Cairns every year, caught over 20 granders and the epoxy hasn't yellowed, however it has crazed up a small degree on the facing top section which is to be expected, not a bad test really. These rods have not been looked after, been bashed around and so on and so forth, if you have a look at my web site, you will see some of the action these chair rods have seen. Its the front page pic taken form a chopper.

Stu

[Willo]

Forgot to mention. I have 6 chair rods that have lived on the back deck of a large charter game boat. It travels from NSW to Cairns every year, caught over 20 granders and the epoxy hasn't yellowed, however it has crazed up a small degree on the facing top section which is to be expected, not a bad test really. These rods have not been looked after, been bashed around and so on and so forth, if you have a look at my web site, you will see some of the action these chair rods have seen. Its the front page pic taken form a chopper.

Stu

Hi Stu
Is that epoxy one of yours or a brand name ....?

[Stuart]

Those rods were coated with my own, however I had to pull the pin on that epoxy because the cost went through the roof along with the packaging size, forty four drums, yea right.
I use to by it in 10ltr packs 4 at a time.

[BARICK]

Something I noticed just now.
I bought a new batch of TM Lite formula and it must have been just made from the factory recently, I'm assuming, because when I mixed it it came out virtually as clear as D2.
When I put the bottle of Hardener up against my old bottle of TM Hardener you can really see the difference in colour. The old bottle of TM Lite hardener is a pale yellow where the new bottle is completely clear.

[Owen]

It's normal for the hardener to darken over time