Have noticed that bullards D2 is yellowing over white bindings is this to be expected over time ..?? or are some epoxy better than other with yellowing ...or is it my application..?
Been really happy with D2 but have noticed on two white rods its yellowing slightly
How old is the epoxy Willo?
Over time the Hardener goes a little yellow. Are you heating it up?
Its prob about 3 months old and wasn't heatedOriginally Posted by BARICK
Very interesting Willo. I read this not long ago and now you have had a similar issue.
http://rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,409931
Thanks Daintreeboying That was a interesting read....Diamond 2 might be a bit light on in the UV department as both theses two white rods are in open boats getting lots of sun
willo, do you paint under the binds?
ive found that if i paint under the binds white, the cp my binds, then epoxy i dont have a problem. and i use bullards as well as a few others
ian
oh yeah,
i really hate white
Yeh Mate ....White is definitely off my list as well....LOL
White is the worst colour to use. First lesson grasshopper, NEVER USE WHITE THREAD OR PAINT UNDER EPOXY.
I refuse to build rods where white is the customers choice, I dont care how much they want to spend. I built a full set of 130lb chair rods 18 years ago, yes, all white. White blanks, white thread.
6 months latter the customer was on the phone ranting and raving. I had to stripe and rebuild the rods at my own cost.
I have spent god knows how many hours talking with industrial chemists about epoxy's that use UV inhibitors. The core issue is the UV inhibitor is actually doing its job by yellowing.
The darker the yellowing the more protection for the thread. Yes, it looks crap. I even had my own epoxy made to order years ago with no inhibitor at all. Man was that stuff brilliant.
For what its worth, Im currently using Pro cote epoxy, It seems to be the best of the current lot on offer. I haven't seen any yellowing to date on any products I build.
I always test products well before the are sold to the customer.
Stu
Stu I am using that too. Do you find it's softer than a lot of others and scratches easier because of that?
It is a bit softer but not all that much, any epoxy will scratch though. I hate epoxies that set rock hard, one is classic rod coat, absolute crap on rods but great on gaffs.
You must use a coating that will bend and flex with the rod, not restrict it hence why so many crack at the guide feet, besides guide feet not being prepared correctly.
We mere rod builders are at the most part, at the mercy of those designing rod coatings, most have never built little lone fished with a rod, yet they are left to design such products.
I also must add, that I become quite frustrated when so few with so little real experience in rod building are asked to give input to how an epoxy should work.
This drives me up the wall and its happens all to much in this game. I have given plenty of free advice to companies, yet they really on those who do it part time and in the process stuff it monumentally. No one on here so keep calm. I have used some real nice coatings over the years, but like so many, they play with the formula given direction by some part timer builder making two rods a month, shame, frustrating. This is why I spent the dam money and had my own made.
Thanks for some top information there Stu.....
Might give the Pro Cote a test run and see if I like it
It is good Willo. Takes a long time to dry but that's ok for me. I was gong to have a crack at the Bullards but not so sure now.
Yeh
I used Threadmaster for awhile ..was happy with that .then along came Bullards D2 and love the stuff...was only the yellowing that leads me to believe it might be light on under sunlight ?....cause also noticed yellowing of some sort on the coloured pictures I have put on some rods and epoxied over ....But not sure weather its the ink in the pic or yellowing causeing it ...Cause I use white Decal paper to print pic on....
Any way.... Bullards is running low....... so Im now going to give Pro Cote a try
I don't think there is any way to keep white nice and bright, regardless of the top coat or prep done, I have also stopped using white thread completely now.
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