Hey guys, I have been looking at the Narva battery switches.
They have 4 settings as below.
Off.
No 1 battery.
No 2 battery.
No 1 & 2 Battery positions.
At the moment I have 2 batteries. No1 for the motor & bilge pumps, and No 2 for all the lights, accessories and fish finder.
The motor battery is on an isolation switch but the no 2 battery remains connected hence the idea of the 4 way switch
Do you think they would be OK idea.
Cheers
Bob.
Assuming both batteries have enough cold cranking amps to start your motor....
I would recommend my setup which is battery's both go to isolator then everything runs from there. In other words use one battery at a time for everything and second is always ready as a spare.
I go out on 1, stop motor, switch to 2 and then use that all day and come home still on 2. That way both batteries are exercised and recharged and I always have at least one good one if I somehow flatten the other.
Shouldnt happen, but if two flat batteries, then can try starting on 'both' setting. That's a desperate last resort. 'Both' setting is risky in case you have one bad battery it can pull down the other if connected as both.
If you split the tasks across batteries then you risk both becoming bad at once. Used in above fashion you always have two known-good batteries for starting. All other equipment can fail but you _must_ have a starting battery or be able to pull start your outboard. My two cents worth.
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Oh... I forgot to add that the setup I described is what was recommended to me here. Can't recall exactly who, but the regulars have all been most helpful to me...
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Depends what you are trying to acheive.
One switch for both banks with isolation, combine feature, and ACR would be neater and tidier - such as the blue sea add a battery kit for $169:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blue-Sea-...item416b922206
The beauty of the ACR is that you don't have to be flipping switches to charge each battery as the ACR takes care of that. Just simply on/off.
or just the blue sea dual circuit switch for $69.50 which I would prefer over the Narva switch:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blue-Sea-...ht_2646wt_1037
Dual battery VSR setup is probably the best option. Several companies make them. Looks a bit complex at first glance, but actually quite simple to install.
This way, you have a dedicated start battery and a dedicated house battery. The VSR works to ensure the start battery is charged first, and when its full, automatically switches to charge the house battery.
Three big advantages over Walrus's system:
1. With all your delicate electronics hooked up to the house battery, no nasty spikes etc to cause damage when the engine is started.
2. No messing around switching manually between the batteries.
3. Also avoids the common mistake made by some people of switching between batteries when engine is running, because depending on the switch type, can result in fried alternators/engine components
Also, has the option to join them both in parralel in an emergency- ie if the start battery fails.
With the BEP system shown below, you simply turn both switches on at the start of the day and the system takes care of things from there. Turn 'em off at the end of the day. Done.
http://www.biasboating.com.au/Quad_C...ter_p/2335.htm
Note to self: Don't argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience....
Thanks for the replies guys.
I don't do long runs, probably the longest at present would be 1 hour and a lot of stop starting. Doing runs like that to my mind would not be enough for a VSR to keep the starter bat and the house bat charged. I have been stuck at night once outside Bribie but swapped batteries and alls good. Bit paranoid when it comes to batteries so have a multi stage charge r that is left on the starter battery and a small 15amp charger I connect to the house battery once a week overnight. I also think the rectifier on the outboard might not be working but that will be this weekends looking into.
Cheers.
Bob.
Moonlighter is one if those real helpful blokes that deserves a pat on the back for the help he's given me and many others. He knows way more than me.
But I disagree (fools always have an opinion, dont we) to some extent with your points ML
Point 1 may be valid but I haven't come across any spike problems so far, so I am not worried about that one.... (Probably just jinxed myself)
2... Its really easy to switch and I like rugged simple things like manual switches.
3. Someone elsewhere said most quality switches are make-before-break and so are safe to switch while running.
I dunno about that for mine (will have a look one day ) but its easy enough to remember. Especially if you cunningly chose a 2 stroke so you are always sure if the engine is running or not!
Lastly the thing against them in mind is that simpler is nearly always better in boats... so I trust my hands more than I would trust electronic switching. Having said that I know they are pretty reliable and widely used.
Just an old fart sticking to the KISS principal.
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Hi WLOriginally Posted by WalrusLike
What sort of switch do you have. It sounds uncomplicated.
Thanks for those ideas guys. They all sound and look good. I just have to get my mind around them and decide which way to go.
Cheers.
Bob.
Think its this one.
http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainme...battery-switch
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Oops... No it ain't.
But it's like that in a off/1/2/both version.
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