Haines Signature 1850L Rebuild and Refurbishment on going project.

[Scott Ashe]

Good luck with your boat rebuild mate. I agree at least you'll know that you'll have a solid boat after undertaking the work yourself. Ive always thought the Haines Signatures were are good looking boat. ( I will never be able to afford one though. I'm pretty happy with my ally craft)). Hopefully it won't be too long before your bringing some nice fish over the side. Cheers

[burleygu]

I went and purchased some more plywood for the center stringer thismorning. Originally the boat only had a 18mm plywood stringer eitherside of the fuel tank which was joined much how I joined the smaller stringers. So I decided on laminating 2 12mm sheets of marine ply together for the stringer this making it around 25mm thick with the fiberglass core. With this stringer being just under 5 meters in length it will be shaped in 3 pieces back, middle and front. And once im happy with them I will laminate them all together to form one whole stringer. 250 mm was left for the joins in each piece and they were laminated together by painting resin on the first layer then laying the glass down applying resin to the glass then rollering out all of the bubbles and spreading the resin evenly then applying resin to the second layer or plywood then screwing them together until they cure then the screws will be removed. If you wonder why the fiberglass doesn't go right to the edge then that is because that part will be all getting cut off once the shaping of the stringer starts. have to let them all cure for a day or so before I can remove the screws and start cutting them to shape.

[Adam_G]

Burleygu,

What type of ply are you using?? And where did you get it? I'm at the stage of sanding the primed hull with a guide coat on my little rebuild and should be flipping to over to attack the inside soon. Would prefer to have all the materials ready in advance.

Thanks
Adam

[burleygu]

Adam im using marine ply throughout the whole boat and im purchasing it from peninsula plywoods in clontarf It is a little bit more expensive then buying stuff from bunnings but his products are much better quality also he has a huge computer guided table saw to cut anything you want to size. he cut all of these stringers takes him a minute and I have nice straight timbers

[Nathan Tuskes]

Can i ask why marine ply? Normal structural ply(CD) uses the same timber,although marine ply usually has a AB or AA face which means slightly better qualitywith no imperfections such as small knots etc the actual strength is the sameand has no reflection on the face rating that marine ply carries. Marine plyuses the same glue to stick the veneers together. it’s all a timber veneer atthe end of the day it will still rot if exposed to water

[juggernaut]

Marine ply typically carries the same stress rating along its width and length - hence why it is used in boat building. Concrete formwork ply also has a similar qualities as it is stressed in all directions.

Structural ply typically has thicker outers and thinner inferior inner plies (C or D grade) and as such it usually carries a directional stress rating with greater stress rating along the face of the grain than compared to across the grain. Because of the inferior inners it is also more susceptible to water penetration if any surface coatings/sealers are compromised

[burleygu]

^^^^
What he said!!

Ive used marine ply throughout because I always thought it was more resitent to water or rot and had more layers. Also Because Im keeping a photo record of the rebuild and associated costs and receipts If I ever decide I want to sell the boat down the track it would give the new owner piece of mind the job was done right. You may be right that structural plywood would be just as good however in my books it doesn't cost to much more for marine stuff so that's what ive gone with. Also If you had structural plywood with knots in the timber these can be perfect places to have air bubbles in your fiberglass as it has to sink into the knot and fill some voids.

Mines the simple mans explanation!

[Adam_G]

I'm really interested in seeing how you glue and glass in the stringers, pictures and explanations would be great.

As the boat hull is at an angle to horizontal (dead rise) do you plane the stringer to the same angle as the hull or glue it in and fill the void at the lower end before glassing?? (hope that made sense). Also what type of glue if any is used? I used Qcells and resin to bog/fill/fair my hull but none of that was structural.

I am lead to believe you are meant to round off the top of the stringers so the glass can go over nicely but if this is done how do you fix the floor back down??

Sorry for so many questions but I am getting closer to needing these answers for my small rebuild.

Thanks Adam

[mutineer]

When I got some New ply for my hatches, kill tank etc the other week , I went to a guy who really seemed to know his stuff...generic marine ply ( Bunnings etc ) is all about the glue used no different to structural outdoor. The stuff I got off him is all about the timber used and had proof of it unsealed lasting years in a marine environment. ...strong light , but at a premium price .it is a case of oils ain't oils from my limited. Experience....but sealed properly any ply would last a fair length of time ...job looks awesome can't wait to see the end results ..

[burleygu]

Adam when I fit this stringer I will do some more photos for you showing how I go about it. Yeah are correct that you have to round the top of the plywood as fiberglass doesn't like going over 90 degree corners. I use a resin and talcum powder mix for my 'glue' to stick the stringers down normal baby powder works fine as a filler in the resin but you can buy talc in a 20kg bag which is cheaper. I try to get my stringers as close to the hull as possible and where the hull is on an angle I use a router to bevel the edge of the plywood. Once all the stringers are glassed in and your up to doing the floor the same talc resin glue/bog mix is used you apply it to the top of the stringers then place your floor on top. you can use screws into the top of the stringers until it sets then remove screws and fill with resin or you can just place heavy items on the floor and the resin/talc mix fills any voids gaps etc and dries solid as a rock my fiber glassing mate says that the talc resin mix is fine using as a filler under stringers etc up to a 10mm gap in worst cases.

[Adam_G]

Thanks. I still have heaps of Qcells left over, would these be suitable instead of talc?? Look forward to the photos.

[Rip it up]

Which resin Adam?

[surveyor]

hi burley
great job coming along well.in your application probably makes no diff as the load is vertical but it can be a good idea to angle the overlapping faces instead of the right angles it makes the join longer and stronger on all planes .also the putty would be better to contain some milled fibreglass to give it some strength as well as fill properties .
keep up the good work

[burleygu]

thanks mate I debated about doing the angled cuts but given the complexity of what its going to take to cut this stringer into place I decided to go with straight cut joins. which is better then what was in the boat originally.

[Adam_G]

Which resin Adam?

Polyester.