Marty not really something on the list plus it would be to hit and miss in regards to the height of the scuppers Especially if there is a motor upgrade to a heavier 4 stroke.Originally Posted by Captain Seaweed
Marty not really something on the list plus it would be to hit and miss in regards to the height of the scuppers Especially if there is a motor upgrade to a heavier 4 stroke.
Stringers ground back and old fiberglass sanded to ensure good adhesion when new stringers are fibreglassed into place
Another problem with older fiberglass boats is if you could imagine the bare hull with no timber work in it. And the manufacturer builds everything inside that hull in one stage so transom stringers bulkheads are all glued into place then all fibreglassed at once to save time and make the building process more efficient. This means that the joins between the transom and stringers for example as shown here are a timber timber join. if for example you have a transom that gets moisture in it this can then spread to the stringers as there is no fiberglass barrier separating anything in the main structure of the boat. As far as my experience goes there is no extra strength gained from having it all glassed at once given that the timber to timber joins are only glued or stapled. In the pictures you will see where the stringers butted up against the wood in the transom. Im going to fully seal the inner transom wall off to keep the stringers separate also once the stringers are done on both sides there will be extra transom supports added to the outer middle stringers attaching to the inner transom wall.
Stringers being cut and test fitted with floor clearences checked off of the middle stringer that was left in place. Note the red circle this part of the old stringer had no drainage hole in it as there is a big low point here from one of the planning strakes on the bottom of the hull. even after being on a tilt tray from tin can bay to morayfiled being unloaded and loaded when I removed the old floor there was still water sitting in this part of the hull as there was no drainage hole for it to escape. This is a big design failure However Everywhere water can sit or pool up there was a 50mm drainage hole cut to ensure all water runs to the bilge. I will be flow coating underneath the entire hull to fully waterproof everything And having large drain holes instead of tiny plastic bungs ensures nothing will block up and allow water to sit inside the hull.
You're cracking along there Bg. No biggie but I would stagger those joins in the stringers. How's the itch going?
Jack the 2 outer stringers were replaced as per the old ones. The middle stringer was installed the same way as the 2 smaller outer ones but I'm going to be replacing the 2 middle ones with laminated sheets of marine ply so there is no joins.
If your not already, buy your resin in bulk and make up your own fillers & glues.
Maturity is not when we start speaking BIG things,it is when we start understanding small things
Don't you worry about that Bruce. It's all about who you know. That's why I'll be flow coating all the very bottom of the hull between the stringers.
So the further I get into this project the more re assured I am that I made the right decision with choosing a boat that needed work as apposed to spending around 20k. I mentioned earlier about the boat not having drainage points where the water pooled up and how that was a big mistake from when the boat was manufactured.
In your boat where does the water drain to and where is the water most likely to sit in any boat? Bottom of the hull perhaps?
Well with it raining this afternoon I did some more cutting making room for the main center stringer so I decided to cut the fuel tank floor out exposing the keel of the boat and what do you know I find another design flaw in the boat the bottom of the hull has no drainage whatsoever taking into account the icebox/killtank drains directly to the bottom of the hull along with the floor inside the cabin and any water that gets through the bilge back into the hull. Absolutely crazy!
I could say what do you expect it's a "Haines" but that would not be fair. My Swiftcraft had plenty of drain holes BUT the timber was not sealed in these areas so any water was just absorbed into the timber over time and guess what "it rotted out".
You wounder about the modern boats and hope they have improved somewhat. Now days most good brand boats don't have any timber in them, but do they have the drainage holes ???
I think you have one but if not are you able to make a small well in the floor by the transom. As my deck was not self draining and any water was trapped in the well and pumped out as required. Saved having wet feet and allowed you to wash the floor to remove blood & guts etc.
Maturity is not when we start speaking BIG things,it is when we start understanding small things
You are spot on bruce there is a bilge near the back of the transom where everything drains into all the drains where those small 25mm plastic bungs I will be putting in 50mm drainage arches instead of the bungs, But what a horrible way to build a boat just that little bit more time spent on it when it was made and half the issues would of never arrised.
another design issue which led to the demise of this boat another compartment with no drainage cut open to still find 3 inch's of water in there god knows how old this water is its as black as black! This compartment should of had a screw in bung down the bottom to check now and then and let any water out as required.
....and I just thought it was one of those flooded keel designs.
Hard to believe how badly it was built and doesn't say much for the intregity of any of those old Sig hulls. I've just brought a later mdl and hope its a little better.
Tim ..Would you say the hull was built lightly or just badly in some respects? It would be interesting to know the bare hull weight before and after you finish but then you would need to compare the ride before and after I guess?
Jack I would say the design is good everything there to make it great was but the finish seems to be rushed and the small things were overlooked they had drain holes in some spots in the timber but glassed directly over them so they where blocked and other places where there was drain holes but bare timber was exposed. Once im finished the boat will be stronger and better then when it was new But as I said earlier if I spent 20 grand on a mid 90's haines I would have the same boat I have now you just never know whats under the floor. And in the end I will know exactly whats under my feet.
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