Bought a 17ft aluminium half cabin hull. Now to try to turn it into a boat!

[RZSmokey]

The Hull pic 26_3_13 004.jpg

So, this is probably going to be a project, although I'd like to start simple so I can get some use out of it as soon as possible, and improve it over the course of ownership.

The Hull pic 26_3_13 008.jpg

So it's basically just a hull. Steering and gear selector still work. And as you can see, it comes with some of the accessories that have been stripped off it, including seats which slot into the chassis mounts, windows and original screen.

The Hull pic 26_3_13 007.jpg

There's actually a surprising amount of room in the cabin, although the wiring looks like it may have to all be re-done!

The Hull pic 26_3_13 012.jpg

Even comes with a handy ladder which the kids figured out what to do with pretty quickly!

The Hull pic 26_3_13 005.jpg

The 'Hull' came with a trailer which is completely rusted out in the rear half, although the front half is still perfectly serviceable. Will either need a complete rebuild or buy a new trailer.

The Hull trailer 26_3_13 006.jpg

Also comes with the motor which is apparently 'stuffed'. Is a 90hp V4 Johnson. Is seized, although whether that's been caused by being run without 2stroke oil or from impeller / cooling issues is unclear. Seller tells me that there could even be sand inside the motor. So not sure what to do with that, and will post for advice in a separate thread.

So, I figure to get it on the water, I need a motor, a trailer, some flooring, and sort out the electrical. These things are obviously the priority - feel free to offer other advice.

Also need to arrange QLD rego; neither boat or 'trailer' is rego'd, and don't have previous paperwork for either.

I would also like to (eventually?) paint / re-paint the upper, leaving the lower hull as is. Although it also needs some side rails, which should probably be done before it's painted. But I can't take it to get that done without a trailer...

Would like to install under-floor fuel tank and battery access to keep deck clear, and centre weight on the hull. Don't mind if this is a little down the road; I can put in a 'temporary' floor, tacked with a little sika or something, and pull it up later to install these.

Also considering an aluminium pod, like the fantastic job I have seen on Ausfish already, which may help to create more room at the back of the boat for fishing.

And shade. Need to install a bimini, and would eventually like to put in a welded cover, either with aluminium roof or shade cloth.

Will look at electronics later, but the budget for that is going to be dependent on everything else until I can get it on the water.

Also intend to install some further seating / storage on the deck / sides to accomodate more than two out of the cabin.

My thought on the trailer / motor situation is to try and find an old crapped out 5m 'glass boat with motor on trailer. May be able to pick one up for around the $2k - $3k mark. And could transplant motor and adjust trailer to suit.

So that's the start. First question is... There seems to be horizontal members to put flooring on, but these are lower than the tops of the seat mounts, and also lower than the foam / adhesive that is still visible on the sides from securing the previous floor. Not sure what this means.

Please feel free to advice and question - this is our first boat, and I'm gonna need all the help I can get!

Thanks,

Smokey

[oldie]

old clark half cabin eh! i reckon you'll want atleast a 70hp to push it along, you can rego the boat yourself in QLD i think and the Trailer but needs to be in road worthy condition obviously, bit of elbow grease spit and polish she'll come up alright just check over the hull for any splits or pin hole corrosion areas.

you'll need a 17foot trailer at least i'd reckon with brakes

[RZSmokey]

Thanks Oldie. Yeah, I believe it's a Clark. Don't know anything about them, but it's got some weight to it compared to a 4m tinny. I went this way over a 'glass boat as hopefully I won't be able to hurt it as easily in on rocks and sand in shallow water, and if I can centre the weight of batteries and fuel etc, maybe it will be stable as well.

The previous owner started stripping the paint already, so some of the spit n polish is already done. Will keep an eye out for holes and cracks - thanks.

Smokey

[SunnyCoastMark]

Hey Smokey,
Make sure that you pull the floor up and check for any pitting or corrosion. - It is almost a given that you will find some....... -

I found a bit in my 21' Dehavilland Trojan (foam filled under floor) and my 15' Quintrex (no foam). Had them both sandblasted and coated with penetrol. Worked pretty well.

You could add a pod (need to be done properly though) or you could rip out the existing outbaord well which is full width - fit a smaller well (shorter 800 - 900mm wide at most ) - leaving acces to the back of the boat in both corners.

Good project though. - have fun.

Mark

[RZSmokey]

Thanks for the thoughts, Mark.

Most of the floor is already pulled up, just have to do the triangle in the cabin. And clean it all out for inspection! I don't understand what went in-between the obvious cross-members and the probable floor height, though. Perhaps it was some kind of timber joists? Will have to figure this out. Will post a pic of what I mean when I clean it out.

You are right about the outboard well... wasn't sure what it was called but it's gotta be nearly 500mm deep which seems a little excessive as well. If I could shorten depth and width it would make a lot more room.

Thanks again for the advice - looking forward to making some progress!

Smokey

[stevej]

leave the well , stops you putting too much weight in the rear and sinking the thing
these dont have maxi pods or any sort of additional stern boyancy aid like new boats

[cormorant]

Not sure there will be room for underfloor tanks either but they used to have low profile portable criuse tanks at the rear. Leave teh rear of it alone is my thoughts as well.

Easy to manage fuel and keep fuel fresh and clean and sat low in the stern.

90hp Johno that was on it would have been OK power.

Hell that is a lot of work. Floor in a lot of boats that era didn't go completely from side to side but to keep it low they did the 5 foot down the middle as flat . When you have it cleaned out you'll be able to see how it was done in your boat by the old wear marks and paint.

[SunnyCoastMark]

leave the well , stops you putting too much weight in the rear and sinking the thing
these dont have maxi pods or any sort of additional stern boyancy aid like new boats

A lot of boats of this era - did not even have outboard wells - and there is no issue with having access to the back of the boat. It IS a lot more user friendly to be able to acommodate that. The current well is a waste of space. You could also add swim/boarding platforms each side which can double as extra flotation if configured correctly.
Do you have the equipment and experience to do the job yourself or are you going to pay someone to do it?

If you go on to the yamaha website - they have technical specs and actual physical sizes for their motors including all dimensions concerning how much room they require ;ie - you can work out how big the well needs to be. Alternately - go to a boat yard or 2 and measure up how much room is needed. Not sure what your beam is, but that is certainly the first step - to check if you have enough width.

Most smaller tinnies up to 4.5 m don't have outboard wells, nor extra flotation at the rear - and you sit at the back to tiller steer along with your portable fuel tank and battery if you have one. So unless you are being an absolute pelican (ie backing up flat out with 2 fat guys in the rear corners)- there is no chance of swamping her at the back.

Obviously if you have an oversize outboard plus batteries, plus fuel at the back - you would have to be cautious. However my advice would be to have an underfloor mid mounted fuel tank (dependant upon room). Out board size - the new 70hp lightweight Yamaha 4 stroke would be perfect. IMO 90hp would be over the top.

Not sure how many boats the above chappies have built - but I have built (and modified) a few.........

Mark

[stevej]

agree to disagree, this hull was designed when 2 strokes were all that was available
all modern 2 strokes let a lone 4s will be heavier then the most probably johnson 70-90 that was fitted

take away that well and add two anglers down the back corners fishing and it will be too much weight.

i owned till xmas just gone a 495 stacer with a fiberglass front cuddy and was a more modern transom set up.
it had 2 side steps then a small half pod of about 100l capacity and then a full width deck of about 300mm depth
it had a 70hp johnson with two battery's oil res and a small live well 30l
when two anglers stood down the back it was too much weigh aft and water would lap rather high on the leg

this boat would be significantly worse if you could stand hard up against the transom


no need to dislike my post just because i wrote something disagreeing with your view, but ill give you one back if we are playing in the sandpit like kids

[RZSmokey]

Thanks for all the info guys. I don't mind opposing views at all, either - I think this thing will be about finding a suitable compromise for any changes, and obviously whatever I do will have positives and negatives. Having both pointed out is never a bad thing.

I'll give it a bit more of a cleanout and speak to the previous owner if I can, to determine more from how he had it set up. From what I can see, he kept all his fuel, oil and battery etc under the outboard well to make use of the space. I was considering trying to move as much weight forward as I could on the assumption it might assist stability, but I'm not even sure that's correct thinking - just going on instinct.

There is plenty of room forward under the cabin as well, but will see how much room I have under floor too. The idea that having things sitting at the stern for ease of access is not really something I considered, but is also a good point.

It did run on a 90hp old Johnson, and previous owner did mention is was more than enough engine, and in his opinion 70 would be enough.

Thanks again for the input - any idea if moving some weight forward would have a positive impact on stability or handling? I suppose it's difficult with such an old hull, not many people would have first hand experience!

FWIW, my initial plan is to install a 'temporary' floor and mount fuel and batteries etc under the well, as this will be easier and faster. Then I was thinking of adjusting the setup as time and money allows. Suppose this would give me some idea, too. But would prefer to get any structural work done earlier than later. I don't weld, either.

Smokey

[dnej]

Cutting the bottom off.jpgCompleted stern.jpgTransom before Col started.jpgI did the very same project on my Stessel, many years back.
Looks to be the same vintage.
Things I found.
Bottom, inside will be pitted for sure. This is caused by concentrated globules of salt water, forming under the ply floor, then dropping down onto the bare aluminium.

This was a result tested by CSIRO, for Alf himself and the Navy, he sold the boats to.

They fixed that issue with epoxy paint. I used Lanolin grease, then later I put a plate bottom under the old girl.

Pods were fitted, 80 litre ones to each side, while the motor sat in between them. Gees that was superb.

Later the well was cut out, and a pod put right across, raised the stern, and got a new long leg fitted.

Trailer was RS, and built a new one, tilt type.
Regets , none. Got a boat now worth resale,35000.

More mods being done at present on the canopy. Ask for pics if you want to see more.
David

[RZSmokey]

Hi David, looks like you've really done some work!

Would love to see some more pics of the whole process if you have them.

Cleaned out the interior yesterday, and it doesn't look as bad as I thought, although I still have some sand to get out. There was a LOT of sand in there... at least the whole interior including floor has been painted in some lovely pastel yellowy colour, so hopefully that's helped avoid too much pitting. I noticed there was additional coating of some thicker blue painting right at the stern at the middle, so that could be good - or bad! Will have to look further into that once I get all the sand out!

I will post some updated pics later. Not sure if I should just continue on this thread or start a dedicated build thread. Or just a new thread for each stage.

Anyways, yes it sounds like you have travelled the path before me, so would love to see what you've done and be able to pick your brain! How big is your boat?

Smokey

[dnej]

Originally 17 feet, in the old terms,now extra with the pods.
Some more pics

[dnej]

Hey Smokey,
In one of the photos taken from inside, facing the stern, you will see some 50X50 angle, hanging in a U shape from the floor frame.

I had a tray made up, that fits in those hangers, aluminium about 40mm high, and my fuel tank, portable sits in there.

I then built a ply cover,that can be removed,with carpet stuck to it ,, that goes over the tank. Saves some space.Its ventilated well of course.
A few more photos.
David

[RZSmokey]

Thanks again, Dave. What you have done is a lot like I was thinking about originally. Can I ask how big a fuel tank you're going to be able to fit in there, and also why you didn't put it further forward?

Are your battery/s going to be located at the stern as well?

Smokey