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Thread: Heat Shrink - converting non-adhesive to adhesive?

  1. #16

    Re: Heat Shrink - converting non-adhesive to adhesive?

    Quote Originally Posted by CATchin'Em View Post
    I don't use any crimps anywhere as IMO these are always first to let you down and are a horrible idea (not picking on anybody just my personal opinion). crimps have no solder which also helps moisture(corrosion) seal.
    9/10 of the battle is making sure no spiky wires are sticking out that will puncture the heatshrink(comes down to soldering techniques).
    I use sikaflex or liquid elecrical tape, heatshrink, sika, heatshrink.(on everyone else's boat). I do 3 layers on mine. for the price of heatshink etc. could do it ten times.
    cabac SMDW12/3TK H/S MED ADHES.LINED 12-3MM 1.2M(medium wall thickness glue lined under $4 for 1.2m) they also do a thick wall which is awesome quality but expensive. most glue lined stuff will have high shrink ratio(3:1, 4:1).
    Most people use a lighter on glue lined heat shrink which quite often burns insulation before melting internal glue(very common fault especially on thick walled heat shrink) AND DOESN'T SEAL. use a heat gun if possible.

    Just my two bobs worth
    And I must comment that peterbo's stuff looks the best of any crimp style connectors I have seen but I still like solder better.
    Peter does sell crimp solder and solder only terminals.
    Also heavy wall and high adhesive heat shrink tube.
    His stuff is a whole system, as he has the torches and the crimpers as well.
    From what I can tell the prices are competitive and this stuff is high quality.

    Anyway I sent you a pm.

    Cheers

    Dan

  2. #17
    Ausfish Platinum Member bigjimg's Avatar
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    Nov 2006
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    Moorooka, Brisbane.

    Re: Heat Shrink - converting non-adhesive to adhesive?

    I have used pool liner adhesive on the joint then heatshrink over the top.Works pretty good in a get out of jail situation.Jim
    Haines Signature "FinaLeigh" 580F 135 Optimax
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  3. #18

    Re: Heat Shrink - converting non-adhesive to adhesive?

    Also seen a little trick where before you slide the heatshrink over the join clean the insulation either side with some pvc primer.

    Mark
    No such thing as a fat alcoholic, just fat piss pots...

  4. #19

    Re: Heat Shrink - converting non-adhesive to adhesive?

    The humble old araldite. It was originally invented/created to waterproof outdoor electricals a long long time ago. Became a bit of a generic name for household 2 part epoxy. Mix up some of the proper stuff that can take 24hrs to cure, not the 5min stuff coz you;ll be mixing it all day long, and have it at the ready. After you;ve done and checked a crimp just smear a little dab over it then push the heatshrink over then apply heat...you;ll find it squirts out the ends but not enough to drip when you've got about the right amount. Then i wrap in self amalgating tape which u can get at most hardware stores...its the stuff that you stretch as you go and wrap around, some call it welding tape coz it welds to itself, the stretching activates it and i reckon its a great seal and nice and stiff...certainly shits on elect tape.
    Best is the quality glue lined crimps...but if u cant get them try the araldite. Few practices and you;ll get an idea how much to whack on. Sends the whole connection hard and takes vibration out of the equation as a potential way of failure. Plus it w/proofs, plus if its a potential wet area or where the wire could get pulled/hooked by something the self amalg tape provides even more protection. Even better is cut two bits of heatshrink...one longer than the other and put two layers over the crimp then tape.
    There are better epoxies about obviously these days but the old araldite is plenty good for this job.
    Most important though i reckon is to make double sure you have done a quality crimp in the first place...if unsure do it again. Good set of crimpers not those chinese plier type thingies.
    Steve.

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