Rebuiding Signature > how to remove top deck

[diver dan]

Thanks for the info guys! Sorry, I wasn't clear enough in the first post but when I said I would cut it across, that means I'm only removing probably a metre or so off the back of the top deck so I can access the transom. I've had a look, being a typical haines, I don't think much effort went into joining the hull and the top deck as it looks like a little bog was used and that's about it.

I'm not used to using power tools and 1mm disc is pretty prone to snapping if I'm not super careful! I like the idea of the renevator, seems like a safe easy option.

[finga]

I'm not used to using power tools and 1mm disc is pretty prone to snapping if I'm not super careful! I like the idea of the renevator, seems like a safe easy option.

If that be the case use the round blade. Very forgiving. The square blades may do a little dance around the place if your not that used to tools while your doing a plunge cut.
There's many different brands of the saws. Just have a look at a few different ones. And price the blades for the machine as well. Some are not interchangeable with other brands and cost a motza.

[matt fraser]

Dan,

I don't know anything about the renovator tool, other than seeing the adds. As many have suggested, go the 1mm cutting blade, you have to be doing something pretty wrong to break them. They cut glass really well, you will chew through a few of them though. The are pretty safe compared to using diamond cutting blades. keep the guard on the grinder and make sure you wear a respirator and gloves, and a dust suit will reduce the itch.

Cutting the top off is just the begining, then you have to cut the inner skin of the transom off, and then get the wood out. Messy, dusty, filthy job - but someone has to do it, right!

Oh, and everything in your entire shed will end up with a layer of fibreglass dust on it.

Have fun,

Matt


PS I know a couple of blokes who can quote you on the job.

[cormorant]

Thinking about a lesser dust , more control option the reciprical saw may work if there is enough room for the blade on the inside to use it as so many blades are now avaliable. Just slower I've only ever used the small and large angle grinder and a vac attachment gaffer taked on in the early days takes a lot of mess away but not real good for the average vac.


Edit- have a mate wedge up your cut with a few small paddle pop size wood wedges or screwdriver as the only time I snap the thin blades is when they pinch or I am doing something stupid let alone the load I have stuffed putting the grinder on the ground . Big difference in disc quality as well. I have some you can watch flex a huge amount and not shatter ( well not straight away) and yet others are as fragile as can be.


Hi Finga - Yeah I need a fein ( don't we all) and they are now half price compared to a couple of years ago . For the small amount of time I spend on the tools these days I have to justify to myself anything else to add and I have a enthusiastic neighbour who's hobby seems to be collecting new tools and no idea what to use em for. Now to dream up a project where only a fein will do it.

[finga]

Thinking about a lesser dust , more control option the reciprical saw may work if there is enough room for the blade on the inside to use it as so many blades are now avaliable. Just slower I've only ever used the small and large angle grinder and a vac attachment gaffer taked on in the early days takes a lot of mess away but not real good for the average vac.

Maaaate I use my 'renovator' type saws heeeeaps. I love them. I even trim my toenails with it (just kidding. I still use the angle grinder for that)
You can use them in really confined spaces (I've used mine to cut wall studs off inside the wall so a top plate can be inserted without the need to rip some inside or outside wall linings off), they can cut flush against something else so can run down the side of the hull to pull out the rotten transom, you can plunge cut anywhere and there is a fraction of the dust as compared to a grinder. They also have a finish cut of less then 1mm.
With the rounder blades you can cut a fairly straight line (well as straight as an angle grinder can)

If you were closer you could grab one of mine and have a go. Brilliant they are. They would have to be just behind battery drills for usefulness I reckon.

[diver dan]

Dan,

I don't know anything about the renovator tool, other than seeing the adds. As many have suggested, go the 1mm cutting blade, you have to be doing something pretty wrong to break them. They cut glass really well, you will chew through a few of them though. The are pretty safe compared to using diamond cutting blades. keep the guard on the grinder and make sure you wear a respirator and gloves, and a dust suit will reduce the itch.

Cutting the top off is just the begining, then you have to cut the inner skin of the transom off, and then get the wood out. Messy, dusty, filthy job - but someone has to do it, right!

Oh, and everything in your entire shed will end up with a layer of fibreglass dust on it.

Have fun,

Matt


PS I know a couple of blokes who can quote you on the job.

I know some people that can do the job for me too but I've always been interested in learning to glass myself. I have another boat I can use in the meantime so no rush anway. I'm thinking about putting a plastic curtain around the boat to minimise glass powder going on everything else.

Most boat rebuilders refuse to use anything but timber in the rebuild whereas I plan to build it with core matt and nema board.

[cormorant]

Timber is cheap , quick and easy , comes in the right thickneses and if done well should last another 30 plus years . There is a bit more skill in using newer products properly and with many designed for vac bagging etc you can save a lot of weight and they should also last a long time.

[diver dan]

Timber is cheap , quick and easy , comes in the right thickneses and if done well should last another 30 plus years . There is a bit more skill in using newer products properly and with many designed for vac bagging etc you can save a lot of weight and they should also last a long time.

This Haines is only 15 years old and choc full of rot, it just goes to show how poor their build quality is out of the factory. My local boat shop is rebuilding all of their boats with synthetic materials that work out to be a similar price to timber anyway. nema board is probably easier to use than timber, similar price and will never rot either. I just want a boat that I don't have to stress about drilling to add ladders and transducers etc. into the transom and washing the inside out with fresh water.

[diver dan]

Also, resale will be better without timber if I ever was to sell it. I think I'll be buying the renovator!

[cormorant]

Have you got any details on bonding to nema and the strength? Is there a special marine nema that bonds with epoxy or glass? I've not used it as a structural element in a transom so interested in how it is done.

[diver dan]

your standard polyester resins stick very well to nema board, my local boat shop has tested it and found it sticks better to the nema board than timber. The nema board comes in various thicknesses so I'll probably use the 28mm for the stringers and 12mm for the floor. I wouldnt recommend nema n the transoms as it might crush esp when using heavy motors. I was planning on using core matt in the transom making it basically solid glass.

[juggernaut]

Similar to the Renovator I've use the Bosch multitool (250 watt version) from Bunnings for odds and sods during my boat reno.

For cutting though a 5 inch grinder with 1mm cutting blade will leave it for dead in terms of cutting speed. Will cut through fibreglass like a hot knife through butter. The only time I've broken a disc is if I've stepped on it!!

The multitool is great for internal cutouts when installing such things as for radio's, stereos etc. For everything else the weapon of choice is the 5 inch grinder with thin cutting disc.

[finga]

Similar to the Renovator I've use the Bosch multitool (250 watt version) from Bunnings for odds and sods during my boat reno.

That's what I have for the rougher type work where it doesn't matter if I drop it etc etc etc. I also have a Fein that is.....well special and I only use it for very detailed work.
If you have a mulitool or any of those sorts of saws this website will be of interest. It's a website full of cheap blades that are extremely good quality.
Instead of $30 or $40 for a blade how about less then $10.
http://fitzallblades.com/

[Stewey]

Thanks for that finga. Have had a bosch multitool for work for the last couple of years. Fantastic tool. I am a tiler and use it daily for cutting door jambs etc off to height. Bosch blades must be gold plated the prices that they charge. Like the look of their range of blades also.

They are a fantastic tool, very versatile.

Stewey

[diver dan]

Just bought a Rockwell multitool from supercheap last night for $49! tried it cutting some excess glass and it worked amazingly well. Very precise and next to no dust! Highly recommend them for anyone with a boat.