Rip it up's boat rebuild factory.

[Rip it up]

I shudder to think of my total price but I'll try.

Materials used.
25L of FGI epoxy resin. @$25/L
2x 20mm sheets of polycore honeycomb. @$75/sheet
2x 15mm poly core @$65/sheet
1x 10mm poly core. @$55
$960

Guess at glass. ( have a 50kg roll)
$5kg mates rate price. 15kg approx.
this includes some 4" tape etc. $225

West system micro fibre. 8kg. $90
West system micro spheres 4kg $45

Qcells filler blend. Bought in bulk. $16/Kg. 2kg used. $32.

Deck paint. Tredgrip. Rubberized floor paint. Experimental. (does not like petrol dropped on it.) but it was $110/4L.
Otherwise great product. Used 1L

Consumables sandpaper. Grinder discs. Brushes. Gloves. Tyvek suits. Approx$300

Approx $1665 plus any fittings I replaced along the way.

[tropicrows]

I agree, I kept a detailed record when I did my rebuild. It soon adds up, I never did tell the x how much it really cost.

[matt fraser]

I'm impressed by your skills and speed, Well done! I take it this isn't your first glass boat rebuild?

The 450 you are using is it chopped strand or other?

I've used a bit of polycore and it is good stuff, cheap and easy to cut. I used it mainly for bulkheads, and upright walls of the front deck hatches. I'm a bit worried about it having enough strength for a transom. 80kg density seems a bit light for me, but I suppose time will tell.

I'm keen in finding out more about your non skid paint, brand, costs? It looks good!

Well done again, massive effort!

Matt

[Rip it up]

Thanks for the kind words Matt.

This is my first "rebuild" but I spent 2yrs building new boats. So I have done a bit before you could say.

My glass is 450gsm double bias cloth. 45/45.

The compression strength is not fantastic. But all my through bolt fittings were cored out and filled out with glue powder. To make a solid core. Then glassed over the top with 2-3 layers of 450. The knee braces go from hull skin up to motor well height for flex and transferring of thrust.

So far I can not fault the double skinned transom for flex. I can lift the bow off the trailer when I lean on the outboard leg.

My deck paint is called. Tredgrip. Bought it from my local Dulux paint shop. $110/4L. BUT be careful with fuel. Any spillage will eat the paint. But as a grip surface it is supreme. Does get a little warm on the trailer in full sun. But on the water it's great. Might be the honeycomb helping with that. I was stacking gear on the fresh floor paint 12hrs after painting it. No issues. Does leave a mark when gear is dragged across the surface but is not scratching through it. Washes easily.

Hope this info helps Matt.

[Spiderpig]

Terrific build mate I hope i lasts you for many happy years of fishing/crabbing.

[cormorant]

Not sure of the spelling but I have seen tredgrip used on yachts and it is not affected by fuel. Possibly a different product or spelling of one hell of a strong petrol before it was cured? I'm guessing? Old stock paint will sometimes have issues as well . Give Dave a yell at boatcraft as he knows his products.

Issue I have with any rubberised paint is that if you have to remove them they are a absolute pain and they used to have recoat issues. They have got a lot better and don't wear like they used to.

I still like quality paints with a grit or such added in them bit I am a bit old fashioned and always got it to work OK. Rubber stuff was always used on less stable, flexible surfaces or to cover up stuff and in your case it is stiff as aboard and not much temp expansion or contraction.

http://boatcraft.com.au/informationp...dquestions.htm


DRYING TIME: To touch 30 minutes ‑ 1 hour. Recoat 2‑4 hours. Figures quoted are based on optimum drying conditions ‑ 25C. Low temperatures andlor high humidity will greatly reduce drying efficiency. In normal conditions 16 hours of drying to attain water resistance and 7 days drying to attain hardness and resistance properties

[cwcarter]

Great job mate. Always been a bit scared of glass, but you make it look easy. I'll stick to to the old tinnys for now.
I've also used the tredgrip paint on my tinnie. Have had a couple of splashes of fuel in the back with no effect. May depend on cure times. Mine still felt a bit tacky to walk on at 3 weeks. Been baking in the sun for a while now and seems to be pretty good, time will tell.

[Rip it up]

Cormorant. Good pick up on the fuel spillage versus curing time.

Yes the boat was very fresh on the first trip out and this would have been why the fuel was able to do what it did.

3 weeks on I will test again with a few drops.

I understand that the rubber products are harder to remove but I have been trying a few different non slip coatings on my boats.

Two pack polyurethane with glass beads wrecks anything it touches including knees knuckles and eskies.

Tried inter grip but too dear and a patchy finnish to roll out.

Sugar in two pack leaves hollows for dirt to sit.

So I thought I would test something new. So far I'm happy with the results.

I will be starting to rebuild the green boat next week. Stay tuned.

[PatricsOnTheCoast]

Thanks for that mate! Seems like you could make yourself a few nice profits if you picked a few boats up for the right price and did a few restorations for resale.

[Rip it up]

Ok guys the time has come to make a call on the price to sell this little beauty. What would you consider a reasonably price to sell this boat.

I have two options. Leave the original gelcoat untouched and sell as is or

Go down the path of a full two pack respray to attempt to get a larger profit. Is there $2000 in a fresh paint job?

I want to sell this project to fund a new motor on a larger boat.

I still have a 15ft runabout to build as a crabbing boat.

Looking for a quick sale not a unreasonable asking price. It owes me $10,000 easy

[Rip it up]

Just because everybody loves photos.




Just an update on the little weapon.

Having ticked over the 250hrs of motoring I figured it was time for a power upgrade to suit the style of use the boat gets. At the expensive of transom weight a 2004 F80 was bolted on.

A Wakeboarding / tubing pole has been added to enjoy the local fresh water dam during summer.

It's due for a paint job on the floor as the original tredgrip paint just doesn't hold up to abuse. Will be going with an epoxy finishing coat.




Damo's dodgy boat building factory.

[myusernam]

rip it up, nice handywork. But I have to ask, what do you have against polyester?
You are grinding back to fresh glass anyway. so long as you grind back to green glass what is wrong with using poly and chopped matt?
And using ply for stringers an glassing both sides properly/ sealing?

[Rip it up]

Polyester is a very brittle resin system that relies on bulk resin to glass ratios for strength and sealing.

Epoxy resins allows for a greater deal of flex prior to cracking. Thus is a better sealing agent for timber etc.

My choice of materials allows me to take a lot of weight out of the core material and use better fibre to resin rations on the layups.

FRP, or fibre reinforced plastics, rely on the seperation of two layers of fibers by a core material. The further the layers are apart the stiffer the section.

So it's like an I beam. The taller the I beam the stiffer it is.

So the core material plays a minimal role it the strength of a panel. Thickness is best attribute. Now using thick plywood adds bulk weight. Then add plywood soaked in polyester adds more again.

Whilst epoxy resin is dearer to buy initially, you use less of it and you gain better strength. So in the end to create a panel of the same strength costs marginally more in epoxy vrs poly.

Plywood when treated with respect inside a boat is perfectly fine. But it only takes one misguided screw hole or worse delamination down the track to ruin all the hard work.

My epoxy honeycomb construction only needed a few solid cores placed around the motor mounting bolts to ensure that any disrespect of either the transom or floors would not develop into full rebuild.

The honey comb core situation means that any water that gets behind a screw will be trapped into a 6mm x 15mm pocket of plastic and can not travel.


Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.

[dipster2]

Hey Damo,
I was told by a boat builder that epoxy is very hard to get to chemically bond to polyester? It apparently bonds well to other epoxy, but not much else. Is this correct in your experience?
Im at the point of getting an order ready for my own rebuild but was going to use polyester based on that advice.
I would imagine that your Rogue hull was originally made of polyester?

Cheers Dip

[Rip it up]

Well I can only comment on my experiences with epoxy as a professional builder and my work at home. I won't bag out another builder for their information.

But 20 year old polyester won't chemically bond with anything. It's inert after all that time.
But epoxy with bond mechanically with tiny hairs of grounded areas within the polyester. And it will have a better bond then polyester will.

A chemical bond is only available within a few days of laying down fresh resin either epoxy or polyester. So most new moulded boats can achieve this in the factory when they work on the boats 8hrs every day. We don't get that luxury as home repairers, and are lucky to get a chance a few hours each weekend.

The half truth of the polyester to epoxy bond is the other bonding direction. Putting polyester flowcoat over the epoxy resin. This bond is not favourable but is achievable if prepared correctly. They now make a good range of epoxy finish coats (flowcoats) to combat this. And they work extremely well. ( think garage floor paints but for boats).

Have a look at this supplier. Has always sent quality supplies quickly straight to my door.

http://www.trojanfibreglass.com.au

Good luck with your choice either way. Ask any questions you like.



Damo's dodgy boat building repair centre.