To rust proof or not to rust proof??

[merseybluenose]

Hi All,

looking for some thoughts or ideas about rust proofing. Bought a 2010 VRX Pajero few months back, its the missus dream car and I never get to drive it....just wash and wax it every other weekend

The car is mainly an everyday car but during school holidays we often go camping and therefore do some beach driving, I also on occasion launch the tinnie with this car on the weekends when the family are coming with.

My last car had electrolysis rust proofing on it and when I sold it (at the ripe old age of 15yrs) it had not a speck of rust on the body and had done some serious k's on sandy beaches.

I priced a new electrolysis kit (top of the line) for the pajero at $1600 and if I had the cash would have done it by now but after a discussion with a mate who has never rust proofed a car with one of these I am second guessing myself.

His argument - I would struggle to spend $1600 over the lifetime of this car (probably 5-8 years roughly) in heavy duty car washes after trips and the occasional under body spray of rust proofing agents like lanolin etc......I think he has a point but would like some other perspectives

[TheRealAndy]

Electronic rust protection is snake oil. Best protection is using tectyl 506 everywhere or one of the more rugged alternatives under the car (in exposed areas).

[Horse]

Andy is on the money. Electronic rust prevention systems have been proven not to work. Barrier systems are the best option...........or buy a Landrover

[murf]

my old Nissan Patrol has never had any rust proofing and its a 91 model, its just starting to get a bit of cancer in the Chinese replacement guard . nah I beach launch all the time and it gets a drenching at times and I don't do much other than a quick wash with water when I can be bothered. It is starting to get a bit of surface rust on the rear diff (been gunna spray some Tektle 506 on it for a few years now but am too lazy)

those electronic units will never work unless your garage is 3 feet deep in salt water (wast of money IMO)

a bit of TLC every now and then beets all over priced rust proofing, so buy some bait and a few new rods n reels

cheers Murf

[Jarrah Jack]

After some research on here I'm starting to use inox on my trailers and 4by. I can see it working on the trailer and expect the same on the lux. Inox is very easy to spray on and top up a coat at any time.

[missingdna]

i used to be a panel beater. i am working now in a company that's sister bussiness is electronic rust proofing. i currently own a patrol that has been electronic rust proofed since new.

DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON ELECTRONIC RUST PROOFING


Tectyl,lanolin,fishoil, whatever ya poison..... either pay someone (which is cheaper than electronic rustproofing) or do it yaself....remove doortrims one lazy day....take off ya pillar trims and lift up ya kick plates and remove the bung plugs.....jack it up and give a gutfull to the chassis....raise the bonnet and submit the engine bay to a good dose of kick arse rust proofin.....
this includes your barn doors/hatch doors....
give it heaps,dont be shy....
on the skin tho.....get a matching touch up pot made so when u wash u can hit those pesky stone chips and stop rust before it starts.....

[stumbles]

There are plenty of electronic rust prevention systems that dont work, however there are some that do. I had the couplertec system on my 100 series, had a scratch down to metal on the roof so just left it to see. In 3 yrs it never rusted. fyi, i dont work for them.

[lethal098]

Dont ever think an electronic rust unit will stop rust, more than likely it wont.

think of it as an insurance policy, if and when it rusts the company that provided the unit will PAY for it to be fixed as their warranty says it wont rust with their unit.

Cheers Lee

[murf]

Dont ever think an electronic rust unit will stop rust, more than likely it wont.

think of it as an insurance policy, if and when it rusts the company that provided the unit will PAY for it to be fixed as their warranty says it wont rust with their unit.

Cheers Lee

as long as the rust is not above the bottom of your windows, apparently they don't cover the roof or pillars?

cheers Murf

[nigelr]

IMHO instead buy a suitable air compressor and kero gun and once a year hit her up underneath with a few coats of turps-based rust-sealer/proofer then a couple of coats of black tar, all wet-on-wet. Dries non-sticky within 24hrs or so. I use 'Rustmasters' and Septone underbody sealer over the top. I've mixed a little fishoil in with the rustmasters also at times.
Has worked for me for 15 years or so over a couple of vehicles, (S3 Landy and Toyo Troupie) and I fish the beach at least 10 times a month.
I will add, I do wash my vehicle down thoroughly after each trip or as soon as practical afterwards.
And, most definitely get a good respirator (canister type) and some clear eyeglasses!

[Noelm]

My old 80 series had one of those electronic rust stoper gizmos on it from new, and when I sold it 15 years later it had no rust at all, but then, neither did my brothers or my mates, and they did not have a "gizmo" to stop the rust, and we all live right on the beach! a bit of TLC is probably the best protection for any part of a car, whether it be rust, paint, motor are anything else, neglect it, and you will pay!!

[jclay1773]

I have raised this point a few times on here and other forums with no answer. My concern with Tectly etc is that it will trap in moisture and surface rust that already exists. What are peoples thoughts on this? I have been told to use a product called Galmet on already existing surface rust and paint straight over the top of it. Any ideas? And as for the electronic thing. I had it on a previous car and after 3 yrs with good after trip wash etc it had surface rust.

[tunaticer]

Galmet is simply zinc rich primer, it will not remove rust, simply covers it.
As for your question about Tectyl and the rest trapping moisture you are correct, but water itself does not promote rust, oxygen plus water will. so by sealing out the oxygen factor and eliminating constant water and oxygen you will cease rust growth. Mind you though, if you seal in a cup full of water into a pocket it will rust by utilising the oxygen in the water.
Rust is simply iron oxide, nothing more, nothing less.
The better treatments are the ones that penetrate the grain structure of the metal, there are several around that can do this.

[murf]

I have raised this point a few times on here and other forums with no answer. My concern with Tectly etc is that it will trap in moisture and surface rust that already exists. What are peoples thoughts on this? I have been told to use a product called Galmet on already existing surface rust and paint straight over the top of it. Any ideas? And as for the electronic thing. I had it on a previous car and after 3 yrs with good after trip wash etc it had surface rust.

the Tectyl is a self healing soft product that stops the air and water getting to the metal, any paint will only last a very short time under a car from stone chips or rust that has already started especially when submerging in salt water

cheers Murf

[missingdna]

this is why u apply any spray on rust preventer during the summer months.....after a long hot week take ya door cards off/ya cargo area trims etc etc and give her hell.....doing this yearly will stop just about anything.