Replaced Wheel Bearings, Need Advice ?

[tassjo]

sorry to use the word wobble but its 1 that most understand.as for roughasguts comments yes tighten the nut to seat bearing then back of to the point that the bearing has some preload.A vehicle manufacturer would nut waste time printing manuals with torque specs in them including wheel bearing hub nuts for people like himself to do what they think is right ,they publish manuals with the correct info and procedures for us in the trade to repair it to the way it was when new

[Fed]

RAGS do you have a link to timken where they recommend having freeplay?

[Gon Fishun]

Fit hub and tighten castellated nut, fit wheel and tighten nuts, spin wheel, spin spin spin spin, tightening castellated nut tighten tighten tighten , spin spin spin, back off castellated half a turn, spin spin spin , tighten castellated nut just firm, spin spin spin, grab top and bottom of wheel , wobble wobble wobble , no wobble , no freeplay, good, spin spin spin loosening castellated nut, spin spin spin tighten castellated nut just firm spin spin spin, grab top and bottom of wheel , wobble wobble wobble, no wobble good, no drag good, no freeplay, line up split pin hole with castellation on nut and fit pin. Good for box trailers, boat trailers, caravans, Morris Minors, FJ holdens, Wolseley, Jaguar, Hillman, Falcon, Skoda, Volkswagen, etc etc etc, drum and disc brakes. Repack after 10,000 miles or 12 months or more often under severe conditions.

[Roughasguts]

sorry to use the word wobble but its 1 that most understand.as for roughasguts comments yes tighten the nut to seat bearing then back of to the point that the bearing has some preload.A vehicle manufacturer would nut waste time printing manuals with torque specs in them including wheel bearing hub nuts for people like himself to do what they think is right ,they publish manuals with the correct info and procedures for us in the trade to repair it to the way it was when new

See you have to read Tasso,

These specs will no doubt be specific for your Ford motor car only!!! as no doubt the wheels have fallen off that company.

But we is talking about a boat trailer wheel bearing here! and that states on the Timken installation guide there must be some play in the movement of the wheel bearing otherwise heat and damage will result.

Cheers

[SunnyCoastMark]

I'm surprised to hear people advocating wobble ....... the term wobble becomes very subjective .
I dont care what anyone says - a well fitted bearing should have no wobble while allowing the wheel to spin freely .

Now that said , more often than not you just don't get that result - the wheel may not spin more than a rotation or 2 - and this is where you have to be careful as it could be too tight or as simple as the rear seal touching the axle ........... If I'm unsure I'll take the trailer for a bit of a drive - jack it up (feel the wheel for heat .... give the wheel a wobble) and readjust . .
I like to check the bearing again after its first trip - jack it up & wobble the wheel ....... sometime you have a slight tick when you move the wheel - I wouldn't call it a wobble though and any adjustment may not be possible as it may be less than one notch in the crown nut.

Chris

Yes & No - Ideally a well fitted bearing should have no end play (or wobble) - However, there are only 3 positions that the split pin can be put through the castle nut and it is certainly preferable to have the hub slightly loose than slightly tight.

As the hub works and heats up ,that "slightly tight" will be even tighter and that is when they overheat and ultimately fail.

Mark

[Roughasguts]

Yes & No - Ideally a well fitted bearing should have no end play (or wobble) - However, there are only 3 positions that the split pin can be put through the castle nut and it is certainly preferable to have the hub slightly loose than slightly tight.

As the hub works and heats up ,that "slightly tight" will be even tighter and that is when they overheat and ultimately fail.

Mark

Precisely!

[NAGG]

Yes & No - Ideally a well fitted bearing should have no end play (or wobble) - However, there are only 3 positions that the split pin can be put through the castle nut and it is certainly preferable to have the hub slightly loose than slightly tight.

As the hub works and heats up ,that "slightly tight" will be even tighter and that is when they overheat and ultimately fail.

Mark

Hence why I said - check for heat & give it a wobble .......... you might get a slight tick (very minute movement) - but that's it.
My last boat had been towed over 45,000km with no failures using this method - my new boat has been towed 8000km since March ....... I'll stick with my method (no heat & no failures) .. (Timkin bearings)

Chris

[Roughasguts]

Hence why I said - check for heat & give it a wobble .......... you might get a slight tick (very minute movement) - but that's it.
My last boat had been towed over 45,000km with no failures using this method - my new boat has been towed 8000km since March ....... I'll stick with my method (no heat & no failures) .. (Timkin bearings)

Chris

But Nagg you got to remember you are aware of yor wheel bearings!!.. check them constantly for heat binding Etc.

For the average Joe! Timken have to allow a little more clearance for the average trailer towing guy! that will never give the bearings, grease, water ingestion, heat! from brakes binding, another thought once he has put them in.

It's all in the name of safety and not being stranded on the side of the road.

Cheers.