How would you go about this?

[Crunchy]

Do you operate the boat without the sounder and VHF and leave the live sockets on the console?

If you do, and without switches, there is a risk of water ingress into the sounder and VHF sockets when they are live - and ditto for the power/cig socket unless it is waterproof such as the Blue Sea version with the cap.

No, always have both plugged in if boat in use.

[juggernaut]

No, always have both plugged in if boat in use.

Then you are unlikely to encounter a problem and switches are not necessary.

[juggernaut]

So Juggs,
would running power thru a battery like switch be the answer? Where you can cut the power down nere the battery.

My suggestion is to instal a blue sea fuse block as wayno suggested above into your existing pos feed and neg provided the existing wire is up to handling the amps for all your electrics over the wire run. Ensure that your pos feed is fused and switched near the battery or power source using a circuit breaker. Then run as follows:

Sounder - switched if operate boat when removed otherwise hardwire to fuse block - switch 1
VHF - switched if operate boat when removed otherwise hardwire to fuse block - switch 2
Radio - hardwire to fuse block - no switch
Cig lighter fitting for a spot light - run blue sea socket with cap - hardwire to fuse block and no switch.
Nav lights - use combined on off on (double pole double throw) toggle switch and combine with anchor light - switch 3
Anchor light - as above - switch 3
Bilge pump - switch 4
Under gunwale lights - switch 5
and some lights in the console - switch 6 or you could splice into the nav / anchor light switch if this is when you use the console lights and have a spare switch for decklight/working light/ other accessories.

How to wire double pole double throw switch for combined nav/anchor lights (specifically see post 5 by Seabob):

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-terminal.html