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For what it may be worth, tis a long story but I will cut it back. A couple of years back the air flow sensor on my Rodeo 1998 v6 petrol - gas failed. $600 for a newy. It did run on one or the other, I can't remember which fuel now, but being a cheapskate and ex mechanic I kept looking around. Any hoozle I took it to a bloke i know in a holden dealership and had them check it out with their computer. They said the air flow sensor was crook but the computer came up with errors, as it should from the air sensor.
Getting to the main part, they said the computer could be sent away and split open to repair if it was resin or something and the price would be $xxxxx. I didn't bother, just bought a second hand sensor $150.
But it would appear the computers are repairable in Australia. ????????????
just heard back from DFI Technologies and this is there exact answer
Michael,
Yes it sounds like you have a faulty EMM, unfortunately it will take us about three to four weeks to repair it. You would be better off getting a new EMM from a BRP dealer.
So it doesn`t sound like they are very interested does it , but i`ll keep going
Is it worth getting a price on a newy from a US BRP dealer? DFI may be assuming that the price you pay here is the same as in the USA, and I'll bet we pay gazillions more here than they do in the US......even counting the cost of postage??
Edit:I have just sent a message to Boats.net who are big OEM suppliers online in USA, asking price and avail for you. Will let you know when I hear back.
Option 2 could maybe be to reply back to DFI and ask them the approx cost anyway, depending on how much of a hurry you are in? It might still be worth the cost and wait, depending on the answer to option 1 above. The indication of $700 approx on their website sounds like it would be worth waiting a couple of weeks compared to $3500 to a Aussie dealer!
Cheers
ML
Note to self: Don't argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience....
. My ECU/EMM has been overheated and now the engine runs poorly. What has happened?
If your water cooled ECU/EMM has overheated, there are several possible failure modes. The most likely is damage to the switching regulator circuitry of your EMM. This generally results in a code #17 or #27 (battery or alternator voltage) error. While this can be repaired, it is extremely important that you determine the cause of overheating. In all cases, the overheating of the EMM is due to low or blocked water flow through the EMM. Water flow should be checked both upstream and downstream of the EMM. If the water flow is not corrected, your replacement EMM will most likely fail too. Be particularly cautious when the EMM maximum temperature is higher than the engine maximum temperature. This will never normally occur. Typical EMM temperatures don't exceed 70-80°C. Look for pinched coolant lines, misrouted hoses, and blockage within the vapor separator.
Thanks Cormorant i thought i heard the mechanic say its water cooled but not sure? I spoke to Chivers Marine ( evinrude dealer ) he told me to bring it in and they will send the computer readout to BRP and then let me know
Is it possible the alarm going off & the overcharging are not related?
Has the alarm gone off 83 times?
There's a guy in Sydney (I think he's posted in here at times) who seems pretty switched on and a straight shooter. Huey @ Huett Marine
Huett Marine Centre
1131 Pacific Highway
Cowan NSW 2081 Phone 02 9456 1444 Fax (02) 9456 2477
He strikes me as the kind of guy who would go out of his way to help you even though there's nothing in it for him.
I don't know what it means but you'd think if the over voltage was causing the alarm then the alarm should have gone off 83 times as well.
I'm guessing that hasn't happened.
With the price of these EMMs I'd be paying for a factory manual to first convince myself where the problem is.
On the BRP website it looks like they bolt on top in place of the older model rectifier/regulators and pick up their cooling there.
Soft alarms only get noticed when you look on the EMM with the old guage set up. Hard alarms set off the buzzer and the lights in the Guages.
It is possible to have lots of alarms recorded on the ECU and not have teh motor go into SLOW mode etc.
It goes back to my previous stuff of what other alarms there is , when they were occurring and if it is as simple as a wing nut on a battery terminal etc etc.
You often get lots of low voltage alerts with corroded battery terminals or if the battery terminals were removed etc. These soft alarms may or may not set off the lights and buzzers depending on which of the 100 plus error codes they trigger.
Get the full printout from the ECU. Send it to Huey , etec forum or take the boat to Downes marine and get it diagnosed 100% and they will check other engine electrical outputs with a multimeter to ensure it is not the EMM misreading a input. / output. I was always lucky running twins as I could temporarily switch EMM just to prove if the issue was ever the computer .
It still may be the EMM . They used to only be US $1400 retail so there is a big saving buying OS and a decent dealer will get onto the Aussie office and try and sort a better price for such a low hour motor failure. EMM should last the life of the motor and if the motor hasn't been overheated, has correct battery terminations there is no fault of the owner. Consumer affairs should be seriously looking at things like this where manufacturers try and say it is not their problem. They will be able to check motor and warranty history on the BRP system.
Just got a call from Chivers Marine error 27# rectifier overcharging and i need a new EMM and not certain what caused it and cant guarantee it want happen again they also advise me not to try getting it repaired overseas as they tried to get one repaired on a 150 ficht and it didnt work so the customer still had to buy a new one so he lost alot more money.
If your dealer won't speak on your behalf to BRP in regards to such a low hour motor call them directly and see if they can do something for you (if they have even looked) . If the dealer can't find a cause for the failure it was not fit for service in the first place. As mentioned before they can see on teh BRP system the original owner and the original dealer who sold/ installed the motor. A emm should last the life of the motor and I think BRP should be coming to the party. Consumer affairs or whatever they are called over there may be a option to gain a written response from BRP. Your dealer asking you to fork out $3000 and no guarantee is a joke when you look at the pricing of a motor. BRP just saying it is out of warranty is not good enough. If their life expectancy for a emm is xx years or XX hours they should state it in writing so we all know.
Your dealers comment about DFI is the exact opposite to my experience on several occasions with 150's from old ficht to etecs with my last dealing with then 3 years ago. DFI may not be as interested in 115 emm as they sell brand new in the USA at a wholesale price not much above their repair cost if you get what I mean. Worth calling DFI in case they have one on teh shelf an ddon't want your core so they can just send it over.
Interesting to know if you have any luck but with the $ you are getting quoted it is worth chasing a better result.
THERE ARE TWO CHARGING CIRCUITS ON THESE MOTORS. whoops caps.. a solid state output from the emm and the altenator for the start battery. The idea is the solid state output is for the house batteries/ Coud it be that the error refers to this solid state output ? and if so, why not just leave it disconnected and just use the altenator output to charge your batteries with a conventional dual battery management setup if you need it..
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