Trailer Wiring - when is an Earth necessary ? also effects of wire deterioration.

[Scott79]

OK, couple more trailer questions.
The set of LEDs that have been on my trailer for 2 years are playing up, they are "ledautolamp" brand, and are the type with ~200mm of wire hardwired to a 4 way plug, which also has 200mm of cable before joining to the 'normal' trailer wire.
I have pulled apart the plugs, and there is definitely sign of water ingress - but doesn't look too bad. Have given them a clean up and a squirt of inox.
The next joins are much worse, some joins corroded through, the rest barely holding. No need to comment on the quality of the joins, I certainly didn't do them. I have made all of the connections again, but lights are still not working, except now a small flash from the RH indicator.
Moving forward, might as well take out the join at the plug, which someone has done to extend the wiring by 200mm, presumably so the plug reaches their vehicle. With the short section removed completely, and wires stripped, I have now got headlights / brakes and a brighter RH indicator. RH indicator has 7 or so LEDs, 2 of which are noticeably brighter than the other 5.

Questions:

• I have read on other posts that the earth is critical, however I did not notice a difference in performance from when I had the earth wire (that is, the wire fixed to the trailer chassis) wired in or not.
• What determines if a trailer actually requires the earth wire or not? Previous boat trailer did not have it.
• Any tips on attaching an earth? The one at present I would say is not very good, it is an eyelet mounted behind a grease nipple near the hitch. I struggled trying to remove the grease nipple, so I may need to mount a new one.
• Lastly, and quite possibly the answer to my shortcomings, at most of the terminals/joins, the wire has turned black - but has not deteriorated to the point of corrosion. Could this be enough to cause these issues?

Additionally, if anybody has any recommendations for replacements, or ones to avoid that would be great. Will be going for the ones with pre-wired cable to avoid the same issues with joins.

Thanks,
Scott.

[Nathan Tuskes]

Run your earth through your trailer plug by using an earth lead connected to the trailer It's.only earthing to the car via the tow ball which when driving vibrates and is also covered in a insulator..grease...

[dan sheard]

Hi Mate, I replaced my lights with a trailer light board from super cheap. I hang it from the ski hooks on the boat and un clip it at the boat ramp and throw it in the car.(no more light problems and no chance of getting the number plate stolen when at the ramp.)

[Kero]

Without an earth connection, it just wont work. Don't connect to the trailer chassis, you'll need to connect to the earth through your light socket on the car. Make sure that all connections are good, clean and dry. The best way to do this is to solder all joins, cover with a grease then heat shrink.

[Dignity]

Scott - all of above answers pretty well say it, if you ever get a few $'s together buy a reasonable set of LED's - I think Repco have a set of Narva for just under $100 which are better than other cheapies and they do come with a 9 metre lead so you won't have the problems you are currently experiencing. If your wires are black they have corroded and most probably all the way back to the connections which would probably be part of your problem.

[TheRealAndy]

Ok, just need to prepare myself for a flame, getting used to it here, lots of google experts.

There is no such thing as a waterproof join underwater unless it uses a compression gland or positive air pressure or both. If the wiring join goes underwater, it will corrode. Ignore every piece of advice you are given here, cause its bullshit. And no, heatshrink with glue inside, no mater how good will not work either.


The solution is to avoid any join that will be immersed underwater. IT wont stop corrosion, but it will help. Your trailer lights, no matter how well sealed are made from different materials that have different rates of thermal expansion, so they will always suck in water. Best thing you can do is pick a product that has prewired cable. Its not a solution that will last till the end of days, but it will probably outlast you.

[WalrusLike]

Andy I know nothing about this... I am not doubting you but I must admit I don't understand.

If a joint is soldered then glue filled doesn't that mean that water can't get to it? I've never done it... Don't know anything about all this, I am just trying to understand.

[peterbo3]

" Ignore every piece of advice you are given here, cause its bullshit."

So would you include your own advice in that category??

Just askin...................................

[bigjimg]

The only time Earth is really neccessary is when you are leaving the Moon........That is all i have to offer.Jim

[sharkcat one]

Andy --- Not sure what your back ground is reguarding water proof terminal fittings. But they do exist .. Go onto the BLA website and look for Waterproof Pre-insulated Terminals .

Quote from their website-- " The tin plated copper terminals feature a tough, heat shrinkable, adhesive lined, colour coded insulation. After completion of the standard crimping process, the terminal insulation is then heated with a heat gun or small gas flame. Within seconds, the terminal insulation then shrinks and the internal adhesive sealant melts and flows to provide a permanent seal and bond to the wire insulation."

I have used these alot in underwater wiring and they do work. You just have to inspect the join after you crimp it to make sure you have not cut through the plastic . The plastic heat shrink is not like normal heat shrink as it is not soft . It is a hard plastic.

Most of the problem's happen in the wire itself , for example in the water proof terminals I have listed , they are made using tinned copper but the wire in trailer light's is straight copper ( not tinned ) I have yet to find a trailer light supplier that supplies tinned wire for their harnes .

Andy - May-be you should use the internet for research before you mouth off that we are all full of bullshit?

Cheers
Scott

[Scott79]

Yep, thanks Jim, that helps.

To clarify my original post, it seems it may be mis-interpreted, I am running the 'earth' wire into the plug, as expected, but am trying to ascertain whether the 'external earth' that's usually connected to the chassis has any/much significance.

Dan, not really looking to go towards the external trailer board thanks mate.

Dignity, was at the local Repco today and they were less than helpful. I think I read somewhere those Narva ones can be as low as $80 at Repco, there are 2 others nearby that I can try in the near future.

Scott.

[TheRealAndy]

I was called tonight and asked to retract my statement. I am an instrument fitter by trade, I studied electrical engineering at uni. My father is a mech engineer who has taught me a lot.. I did my apprenticeship at a company that made instruments that measured tides that most here use, as well as other weather instruments used by the BOM. I also worked for companies that made deep sea instruments (too 100+meters). I spent many years working for wet floor companies, like inghams, gambaros, australian hide processors among others. Also done work for many sewerage treatment plants. I don't need to use the internet for research.

[Todddo]

I work at a Toy shop. Did you see the new fisher price stuff just released :O
BOOOYA

[sharkcat one]

I was refering to using the internet to research the word " manners " and " How to conduct myself on an open forum "

Cheers
Scott

[TheRealAndy]

I was refering to using the internet to research the word " manners " and " How to conduct myself on an open forum "

Cheers
Scott

Well perhaps you should learn to be a little more articulate, because you post did not read that way.