i tried just using water and they melt far quicker than the paper filled bottle,sure,the paper filled bottle may not have the cooling power of just melting water,but,as far as keeping your esky and goods inside very cold for a longer period of time than just water blocks,the paper/water combo works just fine for me,and have not had a bottle expansion issue in 100 uses/freezes.Originally Posted by Freeeedom
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHufD...eature=related
Also try to cool down the eski the night before use.. Put some sacrificial ice/bottle or 2 in the night before and put you fresh stuff in when you leave. AND keep it in the shade and don't open it unless you need to.
I have been thinking about the paper mache ice in the coke bottle. I suggest this type lasts a long time because it is partially insulated by the paper. If this is the case then it will actually inhibit the cooling effect imparted to the contents of the icebox. The ice will be preserved because it has not been able to soak up the heat from its surroundings. Do any of you great people have a thermometer to do this experiment to test my theory. Make two bottles of ice, one plain the other paper mache type; freeze them both for a couple of days. Get two identical buckets with the same volume of tap water in them and place one ice bottle in each bucket. Measure the temp of the water in each bucket every 5mins for half an hour or more. I think the plan ice will chill the water faster.
Might chill it faster but by the sounds of it the paper added bottle will keep the water cold for longer... would be interesting to see the difference.
One other thing you can do to keep the ice longer is to place a wet towel/Hessian Bags over the ice/fish in your fish box.. This will help keep the temperatures down...
Man the paper/ice idea is a cool one... im deffo gunna try it....
dont knock on deaths door... ring the doorbell and run... death hates that!!
My brother used to use 2 litre milk bottles of frozen fresh water. They would keep the water cool but not cold and you could then drink them as they melted. But not cold enough for a nice cold beer. The plastic itself insulates and more so is a layer of air that forms between the ice and the bottle. Not much chop in my opinion. A couple of home made block ice in "camping wash tub" size, frozen for a good weekor more. . And a bag of party ice. Then a bucket or two of sea water. Party ice melts and brings temperature down quickly and blocks last for ages.
goochi,
i reckon a plain bottle would chill the water faster,but im more interested in my esky staying cooler for longer,not how fast it cools,I usually pour in 4 litres or so of water as soon as i arrive,generally 30 mins later its cold and within an hour its to the point where its chilled and ready for my flatty,I reguarly throw in 5 flathead into my esky and this method has kept them icy cold before for over 24 hours at times,i have even left these in an empty esky at times for 2-3 days and still find they are half frozen,Whilst not the most efficient chiller as far as chilling times goes or making the goods inside ice frozen cold,what it does do,is outlast all other icebricks by a country mile,and best of all is free to use and make.and although they cant compare to bagged ice I havnt brought bagged ice for a long time.
i will do the experiment on saturday and post up the results.
to work this out you would need the specific heat of both the bottle..the water and the paper to acquire the heat absorption of them combined.
Also..the size of the bottle makes a difference as the heat is absorbed into the ice based on the available surface area .
but..if it keeps ya fish at the temp you want it then all is good.
Not quite Pinhead. The specific heat is the heat needed to change the temperature of the material without it changing state (solid to liquid etc). The calorie is defined as the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of 1 gram of water by 1 degree centigrade. This means that the specific heat of water is 1. This is (possibly one of) the highest specific heats of any substance.
The latent heat of fusion (melting) is the heat needed to melt one gram of water at zero degrees to one gram of water still at zero degrees. The value is 80 calories per gram for water.
This means that in this discussion it is the melting of the ice that is the key absorber of heat.
Here's an example to show the difference.
Lets say you have a 2 litre coke bottle of water that comes out of your freezer at minus 10 degrees centigrade - that's colder than most household freezer's I think. It will absorb 2000 (the number of grams) times 10 (the temperature change) times 1 (the specific heat) or 20000 calories as it warms up from minus ten to zero degrees.
It will then start to melt at zero degrees and will absorb 2000 (the number of grams) times 80 (the latent heat) calories or 160000 calories as it melts. That's 8 times the heat absorbed with no change in temperature.
So the key is the melting of the ice - the more ice you've got the better it will work.
Fishfeeder has a very good point. If you can limit the amount of heat that gets into your esky your ice will last a lot longer. The easiest way to do this is to cover the esky with a wet towel and keep it out of the sun. This is very effective, especially in summer when the temperature difference between the inside and outside of the esky is large - this makes the heat travel through the esky more quickly.
Cheers Freeeedom
(Sorry for the late reply - I've been away for a week - catching very little!)
Try the Technice flexible ice pads.Wrap around anything--I use them in eskys, byo bags, champagne buckets, and dispursed between fish and ice.
Follow the destructions, and you can't go wrong.
Cav(J.C.)
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