Building 23' catamaran. Build updates

[stevemid]

photo 3.jpgphoto-2.jpgphoto 1.jpg
The third and final coat of paint is done. In my mind that means the construction is done. Just the fit out to go:

Order Glass Front Windows
Order Plexiglass Side and Back Windows
Settle on layout for helm station
Cutout access door below helm station
Make cutouts for helm station
Install components in helm station
Complete wiring of Solar panels
Install Batteries
Install Battery Isolation Switchs
Install Main Circuit Breaker
Run wires from Isolation Switches to Switch Panel at Helm
Install Navigation Lights run wires to helm
Buy 1 more Cabin Light
Install Cabin Lighting
Install and wire Fridge Compressor
Fit moulding around ring frame & fwd compartment edges
Paint internals of all cabinets and lockers
Buy 7th Cleat
Buy 50mm nuts and bolts for Cleats and bow roller 4X7=28
Install Cleats (7)
Install Bow Roller
Install Cleat in Anlchor Locker
Install drains for cockpit hatch gutters
Paint Cabinet Doors
Install Anchor Locker Drains
Mount hinges on cockpit hatches
Mount hinges on galley cabinets
Plumbing
Buy holding tank
Buy fresh water pump
Buy salt water pump
Buy kitchen sink and tap
Buy cockpit shower tap
Buy cockpit saltwater wash down tap
Install Toilet thru-hulls
Installl Sink
Cut through-hulls for cockpit drains
Plumb freshwater tanks to pump, sink and shower
Plumb saltwater inlet to toilet and wash down tap
Connect Petrol Fillers
Connect Water Fillers
Connect Fuel Tank Breathers
Mount fuel filters
Mount fuel switching devices
Buy removable fuel tanks
Plumb fuel lines
Close up access port to Stb Fillers
Install Cockpit scuppers
Buy Floor & Deck nonslip paint
Paint Floors and Deck
Install Deck Hatches
Install Port Lights
Install Wheelhouse Door
Install Front Opening Wheelhouse Hatch
Install Side Front Side Windscreens
Install Side Windows
Install back Windows
Buy Carpeting for Berth
Install Carpet in Berth
Buy Canvas for Cockpit
Make Canvas for Cockpit
Install hinge on galley table
Fit moulding around galley table
Buy base and stand for galley table
Install galley table
Install Hydraulic Steering
Install Keddar Track for Canvas
Buy Material for Cushions
Make cockpit rails rod holders bait table, paint and install
Make cockpit cushions
Make cabin cushions
Buy shade cloth for front windows
Build Helm Seat
Buy Motors
Buy Remote Control Motor Rigging Kit
Buy 75mm boots for engine wiring, petrol, control cables
Install Motors

Launch

Build long iceboxes (kill tank)
Build live bait tank

[stevemid]

I had the dash layout done using copies of the cutout templates for each device. Phil convinced me to build a mocked up helm station. I’m glad I did since after making so many changes to the first one, I had to make up a second one because the first one was all full of holes.

The main problem with using just the cutout templates is that the actual devices intrude into the dash cavity from different angles and bump into each other. Using the mock-up allowed me to fix the interior conflicts before I cut the holes. One thing was the Hydrive helm unit. When I surface mounted it, the steering wheel came up to my adams apple, So then I had to order a rear mount kit, however that intruded so far into the cabinet that it bumped into other things which I was able to fix BEFORE I cut into my nice new dash. So today I transfered my mocked up dash to the real dash and cut out everything except for the engine gauges. Yamaha has 4 (2 each motor) and Suzuki has 2 Garmin GMI 10's so I'm waiting to cut out those holes till after I buy the motors (more on that later.)

Chimo, I took your advice and moved the VHF radio (and the fusion stereo) up onto the sloped section of the dash where I can see the displays. This will work much better than having them down at hip height.

Today I also mounted the battery box, installed the batteries, the combined isolation switch, a 50A circuit breaker and two distribution posts - all in the battery compartment. Really happy with the way that came out. I'll post those pics tomorrow.

I’m going to go down to the outboard dealers tomorrow and do the final nut cutting on motor pricing. Then I’ll buy the rigging kit for the selected engines and install that. Although I was pretty much settled on the Yammie 70's the Yammie dealer getting a little stiff on passing on the latest Yamaha specials ($600/motor.) Plus the local Suzuki dealer came down and convinced me that Zuks were the same cc's as the Yammie, (although only 3 cylinders) therefore torque 'should be' roughly the same so it wouldn't be fair to pay a lot more for the Yammies even though they are rated 10HP more. Comments??

The one thing in favour of the Zuks is their relationship with Garmin. I got a 451C for Christmas a couple years back and it's still in the box. He is saying he could do something for me trading that in for a 7" or 10" Garmin combo. So if that were to become part of the deal.....well.....??

Mock up Layout.jpg
Final Layout.jpg
IMG_1610.jpg

[Chimo]

Looking good Steve. Wondered where you got to. Thought it might be a stress related thing!
Just wondering about your tachos? I really hate in my boat how the tachos are so neatly placed at opposite sides of the instrument panel so when you setting and trying to maintain motors at the same revs your eyes have to capture info so far apart. IMHO they need to be placed side by side but perhaps with setup you doing it wont be an issue?

Cheers
Chimo

[stevemid]

I've been beavering away on things that dont show. I wanted my gauges together across the top but didn't have the space since I had to move the steering up,. The backs of the gauges butted into the bulkhead behind.
Steve

[Fed]

The fuel breather would be a worry for me Steve, can't see the big picture though.

[stevemid]

The fuel breather would be a worry for me Steve, can't see the big picture though.

I was going to put the breathers in the stern, but with the mist cats are supposed to generate out of the tunnel, I thought here would be better, directly above the tanks so no low spots in the line either. I'll have to check the spray at this location, assuming sucking water is the concern???

[Drew70]

Hello
Ideally the breather should be below the fuel inlet as it is the indicator when filling that the tank is full, if its same height as inlet there is a greater chance of fuel spills on your paintwork.
Ive had four cats and all the breathers have been approx 100 mm below the inlet and the breather hole angled backwards to avoid spray entering the fuel system. Other problem I would have with the breather in your location when the boat is washed down there is a greater chance of getting water in to the fuel system.
Cheers
Drew

[stevemid]

Yep, thanks Drew, I hadn't even thought of washing down, I'll have to cover them or something. These breathers are the style with two screened 7mm ports angled about 45 degrees away from each other. I do have them pointing toward the stern.

Steve

[Fed]

That breather isn't designed to go on a horizontal surface in fact I don't think I've ever seen one made for that.
(There is one in the bias catalogue on a little stalk part #6141 but it's an ugly little sucker)

Even having regard for Drew's mention of keeping it below the filler I'd put it higher on the side of the cabin and where the hose joins to it you want the hose to go up before it goes down.
Failing that I'd be looking around the transom area for suitable locations which leads us to mist.
As far as height goes, when you're filling do you want fuel to come out of the breather then you're full or do you want fuel up the filler hose to cut the pump off?

I've been misted tons of times & firmly believe it comes out of the front of the tunnel then sucks around and settles all over your back (cuddy cab) so breathers down at the transom may not be a problem at all so long as they're well clear of splashes & stern waves.
Your boat may not even mist at all, my sharkcat only did it under certain conditions.
Did you dump those 50A motor circuit breakers?

[stevemid]

Hi Fed,
Yep, my inexperience is showing; I'll have to fix these breathers up at some stage. I was born in a service station at a time when petrol was dispensed by the attendant (me.) I would view spilling fuel on the paint as professionally incompetent.

I'm am worried about getting water in the fuel, thus the plan to change the breather location, to mount horizontally instead of vertically, etc. I only put these big tanks (2X160) in for big trips to Qld offshore. Mostly, for pottering around Sydney, I'll be operating off removable tanks so there's no rush.

Did you dump those 50A motor circuit breakers?

I did take your advice on that as you'll see in the next post on my battery compartment.
Steve

[stevemid]

Here's the battery compartment and a wiring diagram which was posted long ago. Power to the motors will come off the power distribution posts downstream from the isolation switch. The circuit brkr will protect the main wire to the fused helm switch panel.
IMG_1617.jpgIMG_1615.jpgSlide1.jpg
Steve

[U4REEL]

Steve I have one of those deck fillers on my kevlacat which I fitted after my decky lost the cap of my standard one... Maybe run some vaso or something on the seal as I am catching water from the tank with that deck filler on it. I also have the same breathers and they are mounted on the side and lower than the filler point facing backwards

[Drew70]

Hello Steve
I would be running the 50 AMP circuit off the other side of the main switch (the battery side).
Reason is that to operate your accesories/ lights / electronics you will need to have power going to your motor at all times which is not ideal when situtaion arises that you want lights etc but have a electrical fault on the motor you want to isolate.
Cheers
Drew

[stevemid]

Here's a question for the brains trust: Do I need a fuel primer bulb on new 4 stroke engines?

I have read that they are not required but that they are helpful to prime the fuel filter when new or after changing. If I do need one, would I put it under the deck near the tanks for back by the engines exposed to UV? I've noticed some primer bulbs in Whitworths say, "not for under deck use."

Here's my setup:
In addition to the 160L permanent fuel tanks, I wanted to also provide for portable tanks on each side. So the set-up so far has a water separating filter on each side being fed from two shut off valves, one of those being fed from the permanent tank and one from the temporary tank. One end of the portable tank hose will be permanently attached to the fuel shut off valve and the other end a quick disconnect. I was just shopping for the temporary tank and a few questions popped up:

1. The tanks don't seem to include the quick disconnect fittings anymore. Are any of these quick disconnect styles better than the other?
2. If I need a bulb, I would think I'd have it between the fuel filter and the motor, but if it is not really needed and useful only for priming the filter after a change, then I think I'd leave it connected to hose that attaches to the portable tank, which I could use to prime the filter after a change.

Your thoughts please?

[stevemid]

Hello Steve
I would be running the 50 AMP circuit off the other side of the main switch (the battery side).
Reason is that to operate your accesories/ lights / electronics you will need to have power going to your motor at all times which is not ideal when situtaion arises that you want lights etc but have a electrical fault on the motor you want to isolate.
Cheers
Drew

Drew, I think I'd go for the ability to absolutely isolate the batteries from everything. Need to figure out a jumper or something for your scenario