Hi there Justcause, thats not a bad price for a 7.2mt plate even better if you can weld ally and yes i no what you mean but thats all part of building one your self this is my second and loven it, other than the weather at the moment but thats summer for you.
IMG_0090.1.jpgWell finaly got all the frames cut out and the doubler for the transom and all K1,K2 stringers joined so hopefully a bit of good weather and ill put it all together and get it sheathed and sealed .
Last edited by chris69; 03-02-2012 at 05:50 PM. Reason: fixing pic
Good job cutting out the bulkheads.
Take your time leveling the jig and bulkheads, this is where you can save yourself a lot of time and heartache when it comes time to fair the boat.
Great job
Hi M4M2 got a bit of practice cutting the bottom and sides and strings first.
IMG_0091.1.jpg
Today i put some structual plugs in my tramsom and transom doubler for my motor mounting bolts to go through,
IMG_0092.1.jpg
first i took the measurements from my motor and drilled the holes throught with a drill to mark some scrap ply for a template to drill out when i fit the motor
then i hole sawed the transom and doubler plate about 32mm hole saw and with a rat tail file i belled the faces of the transom and doubler to face each other once fitted,this will never move and will never rot out the transom as the bolts will go through the plugs and no water can ever get to the ply and it will never compress over time.
IMG_0095.1.jpg
then i mixed some chopped glassfiber and cotten flox and shook it in a ice cream container untill the chopped glasss had taken up the cotten flox and mixed some epoxy and the mix then filled about a 1/3 of each hole and let it go tacky and did some more until filled,putting to much in at once will cause a exothemic reation being to thick.
Last edited by chris69; 04-02-2012 at 09:54 PM. Reason: fixing pics
Got the fuel tank shells made and got a ajustable fuel sender and just have to baffle them,im putting in 2 tanks one for general use and one to fill for longer trips,ill epoxy the outside and be useing vinylester on the inside unwaxed for the tank sealer to stick too and will be useing KBS gold tank sealer
will cost about $80 in fittings for the 2 tanks ,ill use valves to run off either tank when needed.
Last edited by chris69; 09-02-2012 at 09:42 PM. Reason: fixing pics
What sort of fuel capacity will these give you Chris? All looking good.
Thanks for the updates Chris. Would it be better to use the epoxy plug for the bung holes and any through skin fittings. I guess its a matter of where do you stop because water can enter the timber through screws as well that aren't sealed properly then redone every few years.
We've had a big diet of rotten timber in glass boats on the forum so its interesting to see someone building a boat with ply now.
Will the tanks be able to handle any ethenol that may get in with some fuel down the track?
Hi Apollo 44lts each i only use about 35-37 lts when i cruise around the bay in my other boat with my DF50,i wanted to get away with the 25lt toat tank from the back compartment,i have a 50lt under the floor in the other boat and it never gets empty as i use the 25lt one first to get the weight out of the rear but allways like extra in the boat but if you dont go out it just sites there and goes stail,so with the 2 tanks i can manage the balance in the boat a bit better with 1or2 guys in the boat,and with a 80-90lt full size tank you have more fuel sloshing around not matter how well there baffled so 2 tanks solves this problem.
exothemic where is your sense of adventure
looking good mate
Hi Jarra jack,yer its always been a problem in glass and wood boats and it realy doesnt take much to do it right if you want things to last ,with the bungs holes you could plug the scew holes or the whole bung or put you screws in and take them out and wet the hole with epoxy and the gung hole and let them go tacky and put a smeer of grease or spray on the scews and screw them back in slowly,even with glass boats and skin fittings above the water line if the glass inner edge gets a lick of epoxy no water can wick into the fiber and gel coat over time.
With the tanks being made of vinylester it can handle pure ethenol and acids and a list form a-z of chemical resitance to 120c and with the KBS gold tank sealer its rated safe for E85 in the USA,i made a tank for my last boat this way but did not use the tank sealer and ive had it for over 3 years now with no problems,ive heard of a few ally tanks spilting and stainles is expencive and both are heavy but the ply tanks are light and very strong.
Hi wilrybird ,i was standing on the the tramsom with a peice of ply over the peel ply and plastic and i could feel the ply getting very hot and the doubler one i filled to quick and it was smoken,its interesting to see and watch it go from the center out the the outter edge with this exothermic reaction you get a very hard plug lol.
Been playing with the jig amd frames getting things right i had to pull it all down and recheck the jig and frame spaceings while putting up the braceing its put things out the joys of building by your self ,and loaded up the panles to see what need to be trimed and how things look.
Last edited by chris69; 13-02-2012 at 08:40 PM. Reason: pics
Well got everything how i wanted it all true equal measurements between frames so i started stitching and bogging up between the stitches
Last edited by chris69; 17-02-2012 at 09:31 PM. Reason: pics
I can't wait to see the finished product. How cool would a clear finish be if your joints were good
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