just pulled a 3.7m tinny n trailer out from under a tree at the cooks parents place, it was loaded with a car topper along with a ton of bricks and a heap of leaf litter. its been sitting there for 15 years!!! the 20hp was'nt covered and looks like death but was purchased brand new and only had 30hrs run time before being left under a tree with its cowlings off. I gave the trailer some love with new leaf springs, bearings and a tow hitch but have only just noticed that the tinny is warped a considerable amount but not too much if this makes sense? the tinny is in pretty good condition besides the warping with only 1 20mm crack on the side where the front bench seat meets the wall? seems like a easy fix bit of silicon or sycaflex because i imagine it will just be above the water line, but will this warping matter much? where's a good place to buy a secound hand 8hp motor and with the old motor is it just rubbish now or still worth a coin or 2?
Depends on where it's warped. If it's the bottom of the hull,convex will beat a concave bend. Concave and you'll never stop the boat from burying it's nose.
A 20mm crack is an easy weld. I'd be checking compression on the 20 as a start.
Crickey, why would anyone leave an engine and boat outside to the mercy of the elements, regardless of condition ?!
hahaha yea thanks gon fishun. yea the motors rooted fully seized up all the rubber bits n pieces have decayed might just take it to the dump. as for the warp if the back of the boat is square then the front left side of the boat is low a good 80mm-100mm compared to the front right? the boat has been heavily neglected was bought as a car topper for a cape trip served its purpose then left to rot, bloody brilliant for my first boat even if i can only go in circles. mite be wise to ask for some cheap tinny welders to hey?
The boats buggered if there is 100mmm twist in the hull over 3m.
It would handle like a pig and would be dangerous with one side wanting to dig in all the time.
You might be able to get the twist out by strapping the back down to something solid like the ground and strapping a length of pipe across the front and trying the pull the twist out. ie Make the hull turn into a bit like the old rubber band aeroplane propeller trick. Hold one end and twist the other. But I reckon some welds will let go.
Well worth a go but don't hold your hopes up too high.
I guess being metal, there is no reason that you can't "untwist" it as finga says, not 100% how to do this exactly without seeing it and having a bit of a think about it, maybe the twist is what broke/cracked the seat??
I had a tinny with a big twist.
We got two long lengths of timber and jammed them, one at the back and the other at the front and levered away until the boat was straight.
Easy and no damage done to the hull.
Really, what have you got to lose?
What was the impact damage on the high side of the front?? looks to me like a decent hit occured on the high side twisting the low side down and pushing the thwart seat through the side. I would rack the boat to remove the twist then see how the crack area is before you go to the trouble of repairing the crack. A twisted stem and keel like that will be a bitch to steer.
Before you get too excited and either spend money on it or ditch it, I reckon try to get hold of someones 8hp and give it a go, and just see how good or bad it performs to determine whether it will be worthwhile.
Looking at the photos I am pretty sure you realise what you are in for before you start, but if you are only putting an 8 or so on it to poke around a few creeks, then how bad can it be?
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