Basic wiring of accessories to centre console - need some advice

[Bilopete]

[QUOTE=murf;1336174
get a switch panel with more than 4 switches

nav lights
all round white light
bilge pump
live bait tank pump
radio
fish finder

you soon use up 4 switches

cheers Murf[/QUOTE]

Ok guys, I may hav been a bit ambitous with my ideas...

All I have is:
1. a Garmin GPS with craddle operating on batteries
2. a vhf fixed mount radio
3. Garmin fishfinder140

I have never been night fishing and I am unlikely to at this stage. I have a battery operated nav light (red/green) that I can use if I really have to.

I have 4.3m tinnie and I usually only go fishing for up to 4-6hrs at a time and usually no further than the Keppel Islands.

So, having said that, what is the most appropriate setup I should at?

A Blue Sea fuse box or a couple of Bus bars in a splashproof box.

Should the vhf and fishfinder be connected to a switch panel or just run off the bus bars and throw in a battery isolation switch to turn them on and off?

Has anyone mounted the battery isolation switch onto a plastic battery holder?

Cheers

Pete

[Fed]

So now you don't need any switches or fuses or links, back to square one...

Put an inline fuse near your battery on the positive that goes to your dash.
Connect all the positives & negatives at the dash in 2 cable connectors retaining the inline fuses for the radio & fishfinder if they have them.

I wouldn't even worry about an isolator just disconnect your battery if you're not going to use the boat for a long time. The more stuff you've got the more chance of it failing.

[Bilopete]

Thanks Fred, if an isolation switch isn't needed, what about a fuse on the +ve between the battery at +ve buss bar / fuse box?

[Fed]

So now you don't need any switches or fuses or links, back to square one...

Put an inline fuse near your battery on the positive that goes to your dash.
Connect all the positives & negatives at the dash in 2 cable connectors retaining the inline fuses for the radio & fishfinder if they have them.

I wouldn't even worry about an isolator just disconnect your battery if you're not going to use the boat for a long time. The more stuff you've got the more chance of it failing.

I thought I covered this pete?

[captain rednut]

every battery in every boat should have a fuse or circuit breaker mounted at or near the power source (battery), in your case a 20 amp waterproof fuse holder is perfect. as each electronic device (eg sounder) that is fitted usually has its own fuse rated for its own protection. no need for buss bars in your case keep it simple.
regards cr

[Bilopete]

Sorry Fed for repeating myself. It's just that the advice I have been getting is conflicting and confusing. Possibly caused by over ambitious plans to hook everything up and there's not a plethora of photos out there to show novices like me.

[deckie]

Got a bit of time so i'll go thru how i'd set it up with a few references using one of the chandlery's so u can see what i mean.
Sorry my first post was probably overkill for your needs...that rig has 11 switches off the unit already and wayyyyy too much for you. They make a 6 and its good kit but sounds like maybe a cpl of bus bars in the dash/console is the go for you. Of course for that miniscule amount you want to run you could just wire straight to battery and dead simple, and put an inline fuse for each piece of equipment. Up to u. Also remember you'll need a set of crimping pliers (ratchet type) if u dont have them. Try to use ring connectors/terminals the correct size if u can.
Just make real sure thats all u want for the future..3 is probably way short of most guys needs but with this setup you shouldnt have troubles just adding more as u go. If u buy individual switches as u need them and put on dash u'll be fine. Alternatively a gang of maybe 4 or 6 switches and leave some free.
here goes.
Measure up and run 6mm tinned wire from each batt pole to the dash/console. Buy 2 of these or similar (one for neg 6mm, one for pos 6mm wire from battery)
www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=33482&intAbsolute Page=1
Screw into a pice of treated ply or similar and epoxy/glue/scew them maybe an inch or two apart somehwere you can get at under/behind dash/console..but where you wont be fiddling about and nothing can bridge them by accident. Preferably cover them.
Within maybe 300mm of +ve terminal on battery put in a 20A inline fuse in a waterproof inline fuseholder u can get most places.

Use yellow ring crimps/connectors (yellow for 6mm wire from batt to busbars, blue for 4mm which does pretty much everytbhing else) and matching colour/size on crimping pliers. Before crimping thread about an inch of "glue lined" or "double wall" 10mm heatshrink on the wire (try jaycar) once crimped well thread heatshrink over connection and apply heat to seal. Basically that will ensure longevity and u wont need to do it again. Most import to do real good crimps and match the sizes right, so practice a couple.
Buy a switch/fuse box similar to this picture below (plenty of types about but do pay a bit extra for waterproof instead of what they call "splashproof" coz tinnes get wet and cheapo's tend to fade fast..get a 6 gang if u think u may want more things in the future. brands line blueseas, bep,carlingswitch are good kit)
as a unit something like this
www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=84523&intAbsolute Page=2
or for individual siwtches these types...
www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=84330&intAbsolute Page=1
and for navs maybe this
www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=84012&intAbsolute Page=1
Cut hole in dash (out of the way) and fit switchpanel/switches. Follow wiring directions back to the bus bars and use 4mm tinned wire, (buy both black and red 4mm so u know which is which) and the blue crimps/ring terminals. Wire using the glue lined heatshrink and blue ring connectors between switch/fuse panel and bus bars, fit 3-5A blade fuses for say the vhf and sounder and 1-2A for nav lights if LED type, 3A if bulbs. Connect all round white light to one switch and nav (red/green) lights to another next to it on the panel. Thats 4 switches already used so if u buy a 4 gang switch/fusebox you're at limit already..tis why 6 is a bare minimum for most.
Reds from equipment go to switches and blacks to neg bus bar.
Alternatively you could just wire the navs direct to the battery using 4mm with an inline fuse and save the slots on the switchboard. They make a brass type 2 position pull out switch that works well for navs...one notch pull for white light (at anchor), pull out again for both navs and white light(running). That way you could just wire two seperate switchs on dash for sounder/vhf (with inline switches from bus bars) and forget the siwtchboard entirely. Just add more switches as u need them.
Forget about isolation switch and just disconect at battery (keep terminals v clean) if not being used regulalry.
Merry xmas..only an amateur and someone better might be more helpful but hopefully u get the jist.
Steve

[Fed]

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1
I wouldn't use that without a cover Deckie and it wouldn't be worth the effort to make one up & fit it.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1
Wrong switch for Nav lights, if Pete wanted hard wired Nav lights the 3 position one is the go.
https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...012&search123=

Really Pete, all you are doing is joining 2 lots of 3 wires together, just grab a couple of BP connectors and go fishing.

[deckie]

Yeah what Fed said ^^ Wrong pic of the switch, its the 3 pos one i meant.
Thought i mentioned covering the bars ? Ahh well.

Sorry...just tried to quickly rattle off some amateur wiring coz he'd started another thread still sounding confused. Lots of guys have limited time off this time of yr and the way it was heading he may not figure it out/get advice till he was back at work.
I've gone with a more universal fit but Feds right ^^^ Why complicate it at all if he's convinced he doesnt want anything more.