Transom replacement suggestions - what to do in terms of bungs, ice box, other bits

[ozscott]

Hi all,

I am replacing the transom from inside out on the Vagabond while the motor is off. I am getting an experienced fella to do it. What extras/special things should I be looking at. Its got a full width transom well. I am thinking that on the side not used to access the boat, in and out, I should fill part of the well with an ice box with drain back into the rest of the well. For the bungs I have heard several ideas, but whats the go - re-use my brass ones or get with the times and use some jumbo ones covered in marine silicon. I have heard the idea on here before of drilling oversize, then filling with glass and then drilling smaller for the bung, so that any leaks do not go into the wood, but I wonder whether this reduces strength because the glass is a plug and not keyed into the wood.

The transom will be built up 5 inches for the longer shaft motor that is going on.

In terms of the transom, what wood is recommended - or just heaps of solid glass instead?

Anything else? Its my shot at getting it spot on.

Cheers

[Chimo]

Have you had a look at the set up on the later model Vags? As you probably know the later ones like mine have an insulated box with drain to the well on one side and a plumbed livebait box also with drain to the well on the other side. From memory they drain out the bottom and then a hose discharges into the well wall.

C
C

[ozscott]

Thanks Chimo - will have a look mate!

Cheers

[Chimo]

Hi Ozscott

Just a thought, why don't you contact the Haines people and see if you can purchase the complete transom bin module that you could then build into yours. Also talk to Jabba as he had Haines redo his Vermont after others had made a mess of repairs. Could really be worth going to the horses mouth and even getting them to do the job. If you going to pay someone I always feel you may as well pay the people who know what they are doing rather than paying someone to gain experience at your expense!. That just me tho!

Cheers
Chimo

[Jarrah Jack]

Hi OZ The big move finally, no more 115 two stroke. Could hardly believe my eyes. What will you be replacing it with?

With regard the transom material I don't think it matters much what ply you use so long as its a water proof glue and its not full of knots. Hardwood ply will rot just as quickly as pine or luan.

You can go with a synthetic material like 10mm core mat that will never rot. Ply will last a long time if kept dry.

[Steeler]

"Hi OZ The big move finally, no more 115 two stroke. Could hardly believe my eyes. What will you be replacing it with?"

Hate to say it JJ but he still has not seen the light and remains part of the Yami brigade,There is hope for him yet but time is running out.

[ozscott]

JJ. See this thread matey. Cheers

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...y-115-2-stroke!

[ozscott]

OK - stock + 5 inches for the transom and otherwise pretty standard. What is the consensus on the top cap? I take it as long as the top is glasses so the wood is encapsulated and as long as you smash the screws with sika flex and sika all under the cap, water is not going into the wood via the screws. The cap is really needed isnt it for the motor brackets?

Cheers

[Nathan Tuskes]

for the transom capping just oversize the holes for the screws or betterstill fibreglass the top edge of the transom where the capping would go to totallyseal it up...

core mat is used generally used for stiffening hatch lids where extra rigidityis required

for ply use structural c-d grade ply

if you want to use a synthetic use something like klegecell or divincell

[ozscott]

The boys are doing a great job on the boat. Visited her this arvo. See attached pick. Will be stronger than original. Stringers were solid. So Q-Cells going on and then gel coat and fared in. Transom drain hole still to go in. This boats had about 13-15mm solid glass right in - as it is they went about 4 inches over the solid glass area, so the pic shows how far in the glass went.

Should be ready Monday and then motor on and off for a trip!

Cheers

[Chimo]

Hi

Are they going to put the stainless pipe inserts with a flowcoat covering in the transom bung holes upstream of the bungs as per the original transom?

Cheers
Chimo

[ozscott]

No mate. It will be glassed and gel coated so good seal against moisture. Cheers

[Jarrah Jack]

Those Seafarers were made to last. Very impressive the amount of glass in the origional transom.

[ozscott]

VAG - new transom small - well.jpgVag - new transom small 2.jpgHere it is. She is solid as a rock. The boys have done a nice job I reckon. They are Moreton Bay Boat Doctors and Detailing Pty Ltd - ask for Mitch for the building/detailing and Ty for the mechanicals.

In the photo I am getting rid of the old deck wash lines and will replace them with a neater setup.

Cheers

[ozscott]

99 Yammy - compressed.jpg99 Yamm close up - compressed.jpgHere are some photos of the finished product...this motor starts within 2-3 second cold and instantly hot. I have only had it on the muffs but she crackles and sounds very sweet. Cant wait to get her out. Whereas before the anti cav plate was half and inch or so below the hull now its a little above, which, provided there is no cavitation should make it pick up a knot or two. It came with a sports se foil. I had one of those new and gave it away because I fitted Bennett tabs...now I will try it on, but take my sockets with me in case it needs to be removed. The motor is immaculate - it looks new. This saltwater series for me will be a keeper. It only has 300 hours on it and I am looking to get (at least) 10 years out of this baby. It has the fresh water flushing attachment at the powerhead which is handy, but I will use the muffs most of the time.

Cheers