Berkley Nanofil - cures the pain of wind knots ( for me)

[Si]

managed to get some 6 and 10lb nanofil. spooled both set ups. was allowed to go out for a couple of hours for a quick flick with the 6lb along the shore near home. casting distance seemed the same as the varivas sea bass i have been using. not too keen on the white colour of the nano at all to be honest, quite 'bright', would be nice if they had some other mute colours. dont know if it makes a difference but its a personal preference of mine. definitely can tell its from the berkely fireline stable with similiar characteristics as a whole. tied a pr knot in it with no dramas which was good. best of all i could cast as hard as i wanted and no wrapping of the rod guides and managed to pick up a small tailor with it. overall, given its price i like it. the water was crystal clear and cold in the piney on top of the tide today. Attachment 70373

[RayDeR]

I've enjoyed all the comments on Nanofil.

I am a dinosaur and have a couple of Alveys that I enjoy using with bait for bream, whiting and flathead. Has anyone tried Nanofil on an Alvey?

Ray de R

[Steve B]

I've enjoyed all the comments on Nanofil.

I am a dinosaur and have a couple of Alveys that I enjoy using with bait for bream, whiting and flathead. Has anyone tried Nanofil on an Alvey?

Ray de R

Ray,

Traditionally most would say 'never use braid on Alveys'....I dunno, I probably wouldn't either, but Nanofil seems fairly stiff and would suit casting off an Alvey...as would traditional fireline. WOuldn't hurt to give it a go if your fishing bream etc in estuary. I probably wouldn't use it for beach fishing tailor...long casting scenarios I would stick with mono personally.

I have been using 4 and 6lb Nanofil over the past weeks and rate it highly. I didn't have any dramas with tip wraps and/or wind knots.
Good strenght, feels safe...JUST WISH IT HAD SOME BLOODY COLOUR!!!!!!!

Cheers Steve

[Paulus]

Hi Guys

Sorta been watching and sitting on this post to see what direction its heading, keep in mind I do not watch them all. I think braid on Alveys is not a place for it, you can use a battery drill to do the twists undoing, and you need to do this with any reel anyway, with an alvey the cast puts in twists as you wind it back on they stay, the braids strength does not like this at all.
With your eggbeater type reel, every time a fish runs and pull against the drag, then winding on the line it puts twists in the line as you bring it back in, you need to remove these at the days end with a drill, they do tend to work toward the end of the line by the guides and the line roller bearing.

The stiffness in braid does not last all that long, as one of things that governs strength is the pics per inch so does the twists.

As far as wind knots are concerned these are generated by the system you use, rod, spool size, spool shape, tightness of the underlying braid, twists in the line, runner positions, runner size and combination of the runner sizes, a bit to look at, then the braid to leader knot and its size, especially when it hits the runners, its not so much the braid, but changing it will change the whole senario.
From experiance the rod and the braid to leader knot is the culprit, the better the set up rod the worse the senerio.

All that is a mouthfull.

paulus

[tunaticer]

Hi Paulus, Have you had a chance to do any testing on the Nanofil yet?
Be interested to see its actual breaking strength and knot strengths with various knots.

Jack.

[Paulus]

Hi Guys

No I have not tested that one yet, but on here is a good spot to ask for some samples. Sounds like a thin line.
I see seriola ilandi has 6lb and 10lb and peter4 has 4lb.
Now between you you should be able to spare 4mts of each for testing the bs and thickness, then that cuts out the guessing.
Not much good saying geez it's thin when its not been measured so it can be compared.
Thanks guys
Paulus

[AmrK87]

Go to the bank, withdraw notes, get Fuji K guides on rods, buy jap braid, end of worries. You're half way there running Stella's.

[MudRiverDan]

Hi Guys

Sorta been watching and sitting on this post to see what direction its heading, keep in mind I do not watch them all. I think braid on Alveys is not a place for it, you can use a battery drill to do the twists undoing, and you need to do this with any reel anyway, with an alvey the cast puts in twists as you wind it back on they stay, the braids strength does not like this at all.
With your eggbeater type reel, every time a fish runs and pull against the drag, then winding on the line it puts twists in the line as you bring it back in, you need to remove these at the days end with a drill, they do tend to work toward the end of the line by the guides and the line roller bearing.

The stiffness in braid does not last all that long, as one of things that governs strength is the pics per inch so does the twists.

As far as wind knots are concerned these are generated by the system you use, rod, spool size, spool shape, tightness of the underlying braid, twists in the line, runner positions, runner size and combination of the runner sizes, a bit to look at, then the braid to leader knot and its size, especially when it hits the runners, its not so much the braid, but changing it will change the whole senario.
From experiance the rod and the braid to leader knot is the culprit, the better the set up rod the worse the senerio.

All that is a mouthfull.

paulus

As a beach beginner I have had good success with platypus platinum.
To reduce twist I use a - small swivel - sinker - 15-20cm of line that sinker runs on- small swivel- 40-70 cm of leader then hook or gang or double hook setup.
Recommended rig by Alvey and I don't get any twists.

Shogun make some nice roller swivels rated around 50lb, and they are very small (swivel has to be small to be effective).

Would not use braid on the beach because it would be too expensive to spool up.

As for braid in the estuary, Not too sure, but for bait fishing and bream you could do so no worries.
When bait fishing you line sits there without casting or reeling in.

Would really depend on your rod and reel and I would most probably go in search of a specialised mono instead.

[NAGG]

Go to the bank, withdraw notes, get Fuji K guides on rods, buy jap braid, end of worries. You're half way there running Stella's.

If you retrofit each rod with SiC Fuji K guides you would be up for ...... how much ?
I think when I looked at one of my barra spin rods it was going to be about $180 for the guides $72 for fitting - $250ish each rod.
I wish I could speak so highly of my 2000 Stella ........ Its a wind knot generator!

Chris

[Paulus]

Hi Guys
The low cost option is replace the line with a different style.

I had 3 procasters with certates, rods were getting a little older so i went and bought a new one, nice ceramic guides good step down with them 18, 16, 12, 10 etc put my reel on first cast a knot about 30 yards out, this happened 6 out of 10 casts. I took the rod back.

Thought i would get the old rods refurbished with new guides the best you can get, cost more than a new rod, first thing the guy said was, i can set these up better with different sized guides, these rods have a 24mm down to a 12mm and would be chocking the line when you cast,,,,,,, yes i know good isnt it, just replace them with the same size, These are still good rods and no so called wind knots. But you can see that chocking action, that was not visible with the new rod i purchassed and took back.

Paulus

[tunaticer]

Two schools of thought about choking the line in a cast. A slow reduction in guide diameters means the full circumference of each guide is a friction point, adds up to quite a lot of friction.
Second school of thought is a very hard choking in the first two guides then micro guides the rest of the way will mean less friction. I built two rods on the same blank with the same spacings but different guides and there was a bit of a increase in the cast length of the harder choked rod than the other. I put it down to the effect of larger guides giving the action a slightly sloppier effect than the micro guide rod.
By micro guide I mean 6mm titanium frame, silicon carbide, low profile single foots. Standard guides were titanium frames, silicon carbide inserts and standard height single foots.

[Si]

Hi Guys

Sorta been watching and sitting on this post to see what direction its heading, keep in mind I do not watch them all. I think braid on Alveys is not a place for it, you can use a battery drill to do the twists undoing, and you need to do this with any reel anyway, with an alvey the cast puts in twists as you wind it back on they stay, the braids strength does not like this at all.
With your eggbeater type reel, every time a fish runs and pull against the drag, then winding on the line it puts twists in the line as you bring it back in, you need to remove these at the days end with a drill, they do tend to work toward the end of the line by the guides and the line roller bearing.

The stiffness in braid does not last all that long, as one of things that governs strength is the pics per inch so does the twists.

As far as wind knots are concerned these are generated by the system you use, rod, spool size, spool shape, tightness of the underlying braid, twists in the line, runner positions, runner size and combination of the runner sizes, a bit to look at, then the braid to leader knot and its size, especially when it hits the runners, its not so much the braid, but changing it will change the whole senario.
From experiance the rod and the braid to leader knot is the culprit, the better the set up rod the worse the senerio.

All that is a mouthfull.

paulus

you serious? you get out the drill at the end of the day to undo line twist? that would look amusing to your partner i bet. i never really had many problems with line twist with PE, maybe a little but not enough to warrant getting out the drill i dont think

wind and how you cast are other factors i have found that increases the occurrence of guide wrap, especially if you are casting into the wind. looking at the diameters i think 6lb varivas sea bass is actually thinner than 6lb nano. hard to tell with me eyes though.

[Paulus]

Hey Guys

When casting lures you do not use a swivel, and every time a decent fish takes a run winding the line back on creates twists do that often enough and you will see them, Get a few big salmon on and see how many runs they take or a few big flathead. When they get bad enough i do get the drill out, or the line starts to get compromised.
But then the only time you do not have to is, when you are catching tiddlers and then maybe nothing at all.
Trolling is another scenario where a spinning lure can put in excessive twists, then its easier to just run the line out the back and wind it back in, fixes most of it.
I think mono is worse than the braid.
Paulus

[NAGG]

Hey Guys

When casting lures you do not use a swivel, and every time a decent fish takes a run winding the line back on creates twists do that often enough and you will see them, Get a few big salmon on and see how many runs they take or a few big flathead. When they get bad enough i do get the drill out, or the line starts to get compromised.
But then the only time you do not have to is, when you are catching tiddlers and then maybe nothing at all.
Trolling is another scenario where a spinning lure can put in excessive twists, then its easier to just run the line out the back and wind it back in, fixes most of it.
I think mono is worse than the braid.
Paulus

Trolling is a bitch with mono ....... we used to run our line out the back of the boat at the end of a day - nothing attached to take the twist out

Chris

[NAGG]

Hey all ..... not saying that it is a quick fix - but certainly better than the many lines ( mono / FC & braids) that I have tried in lighter breaking strains on SPIN outfits

Chris