Old boot i like your thinking, common sence approach. thanks.
BigE
Old boot i like your thinking, common sence approach. thanks.
BigE
Noelm
Twins you say..... I like it (the wife has just banned me from ever speaking to you again). but i dont think it is in the budget.
thanks
BigE
I reckon your thinking is going ok. Wedges will help and getting rid of weight from the arse and trying to put it in the nose. I am not a fan of Stingray foils. They can give some boats handling issues. The prices quoted here are scary too. I remember when they were like $130 in the mid '90s and the SE Sports were about $90. Must be inflation. The best with no vices are the Lazilas LZ foils and they are the cheapest to boot. Usually $40 from BIAS.
Just be careful with moving weight forward to keep a boat up on the plane. A good mate who should have known better had a good 30 footer. He stuck 60 metres of chain in the bow to lift his engine rams out at rest to minimise corrosion and in the process turned a reasonable sea boat into a pig, bow down and a broacher. When he got rid of the chain it went back to being a good boat.
Weight forward is good to get up on the plane as long as you can then move it back if needed.
Some boats are actually fitting fixed hull extensions to better float heavier motors. These can be either fixed flat metal or foam filled hull extensions which double as boarding platforms.
Do consider a hydraulic seat or padding on the floor if you stand up driiving. Every little bit helps in the comfort stakes.
Hi Big E
My boat is a pursuit 5.5 metre fibreglass halfcab, it has a 115HP mercury 4 stroke motor.
Read some of the other posts on trim tabs in this forum. They are the way to go.
Regards Adam
BigE, the 4st is possibly a good choice but if going for bigger cubes the weight could be a killer, keeping the weight on the transom and to the whole stern is important to maintain lower planing speed.
A good rule of thumb would be to look at the boats original recommended HP and transom weight and go somewhere midrange.
I wouldn't think that you would need wedges on a HS as it should be OK standard.
A relatively low pitched prop say a Solas 4 blade or similar should be a help.
If you have any cash left over I totally recommend Tabs regardless.
The focus has to be upon gettng a well balanced boat.............I don't think putting lots of weight in the nose is a good idea at anytime......we should be trying to get most weight as close to the centre of flotation as possible.
remember the centre of flotation on most plaining boats will be arround 1/3 forward from the stern..and when properly on the plane most of the front 2/3s will be out of the water.
excessive weight in the bow will have a pendulum like effect.
anyway a nose heavy boat will not plane efficiently either.
If you can manage to get ya boat sweetly balanced, just about everything about it will be better.
cheers
Its the details, those little details, that make the difference.
Thanks guys, l will keep an eye on the weight as well. any other thoughts intresting consideration on weight is that a 115 hp 4 stroke has the equivilent weight to a 130 - 135 DI 2 stroke which would have the most torque in the lower planning speeds?
Bige
Big E, Looking at the pics in your avatar, the problem you will have is not with the weight of the outboard. You real problem is not putting too many of those big red suckers on the deck or you are gunna sink! (LOL)
CI
It's a tuff job ....... but damn it someone has to do it!
Once i sort the new rig out there will be plenty more of them.
BigE
A simple thing to do is look at the boat while at rest in some smooth water.You will soon see if it is heavy in the bum.Also run a 2m level along your hull and note the angle in relation to your cavplate when the motor is trimmed full in and note when it is parallel as you trim out,mine reads 1.8 on the trim gauge.Sometimes a foil is the best option,try getting trim tabs on a 580 sig without a lot of stuffing around and expense.Jim
Haines Signature "FinaLeigh" 580F 135 Optimax
CH 81 & 72 VHF
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