Switch panel advice - brand recommendations and maintainance

[spelchek]

Last few trips have seen my nav and riding light switches 'acting up'. The panel is a BEP Marine switch panel with 5 switches and a 12v socket. The switches both need 'jiggling around' to [I assume] make proper contact and turn on the lights. Yesterday I pulled the panel out and, sure enough, both of the switches are showing advanced corrosion. All the other switches on the panel seem fine.

I sprayed some RP7 before replacing the panel for last nights overnighter and both switches seemed slightly improved, tho definitely need replacing. I asume I will have to replace the whole panel? If so - what brand is recommended when I do? The boat (4.4m sea jay side console) is only 18mnths old - I hope there is a brand that can last longer than 18months.

Also - when I get the new panel, what is recommended wrt corrosion protection when I first install and then periodically down the track?

Thanks in advance.

[TheRealAndy]

I reckon the bep ones are the best. Gotta make sure the back is sealed though, so no water can get there.

Once installed, lanox is this stuff you want to use. I spray it on everything electrical.

[peterbo3]

Blue Seas.
http://bluesea.com/category/62/27/productline/119
Do it right...............the second time.
The use of glue lined heat shrink terminals will help also.

Get a vinyl curtain made to cover the opening in the side console. I use silicon spray with no problems after three years plus.

[tunaticer]

I always mount my switch panels to the lid of a heavy duty pvc junction box and gland mount every inlet and outlet wire. So far my current setup is 15 yrs old with zero corrosion or troubles. I do not use any sprays in the box, just two silica crystal sachels I replace every year or two.
Cigarette lighter power outlets are not sealed units, much better to opt for a two pin directional plug of some description, preferably with a screw cap with seal.

[marty666]

the use of nyogel or equivilant is a good start expensive but will last for years if applied correctly. We use it in the automotive world to prevent moisture and corrosion on switches and connectors. I belive some of the cheaper dielectric greses will work too

[krazyfisher]

you can replace just the switch much cheaper than replacing the whole panel

[Sevric]

Many of the switch panels sold today are only"spray proof". The BEP range with the cigarette lighter fitting and toggle switches is one of these. Personally i would remove the old panel and spend the money on a"waterproof" panel. BEP make these also. I have had one in my 4.4 tinnie for 3 years now with no problems. Once the wiring is completed spray the rear of the panel with a product called "plasticote" which leaves a thin layer of protective plastic like film to give added protection. If you need a cigarette lighter outlet just do it separately with a stainless fitting. Look at this link http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-386-...ls-6-gang.aspx You well see that BEP make both waterproof and spray proof

[deckie]

All we can do is suggest what has proven reliable in terms of brands/types over long periods...or maybe look at new products that'd even better. Redid mine recently and stuck with Carlingswitch rocker switches coz i've found them totally relaible and had them in every boat. You can get them in modular brackets that hold as many as u like...they have seperate little internal rubber gaskets and whilst i still wouldnt hose them directly they have always seemed waterproof rather than just sprayproof or what others try to market as "weatherproof".
Run thru a quality fusebox inside/behind dash like a blueseas blade type box and it should last troublefree for eons. Its not a prewired setup though and u might prefer the simplicity of a prewired panel/fusebox for the seajay.

Some of the newer prewired BEP/Blueseas switch/fuse panels look the goods and are probably the rolls royce for a tinnie..but actually worth the small added expense coz it will last....i suspect Blueseas rocker switches are just rebranded Carlingswitch anyway because the design is identical and they fit EXACTLY into anything carlingswtich and vice versa.

Always use ring terminals rather than spade, glue lined heatshrink which seems cheapest at jaycar in 1m lengths, the liquid insulation tape is handy stuff, once finished spray the back/exposed wiring with your choice of 50 different protective anti corrosive spray and you'll probably find it'll all last 5 times as long.

Try to protect any exposed wiring from spray wth a physical barrier or even better mount your new switchpanel onto the face of a waterproof electrical box and run the feeder cables into that using rubber grommets that often come with them. Any good 12v supplier plus i think its Bias that stock good IP67 boxes u mount the panels too.
Steve

[Noelm]

even though my Carlingswitchs are still quite new, they seem to be of excellent quality and so far are about the best I have seen for exposed types of installations.

[albey]

All of the above are good suggestions,but check before replacing to ensure that the wiring is tinned copper and not straight copper cable---could be the reason for the early corrosion.
I wouldnt worry bout the heat shrink though,its bad news around moisture,you can get corrosion under the shrink and not be aware of it-as suggested use the glue filled shrink or even better the liquid tape in a tube