DIY: Transom Repair Haines 1950R

[mustang5]

Thanks mate that helps!

Just to clarify, so I have the existing cut line, with new ply installed. What happens to the 60-70mm of fibreglass of the outer section we have left?? Do I taper both ways leaving only 10-20mm of the outer lip that was left after the initial cut??

Furthermore, through investigation it seems that there is ply on the side walls on the lower half of the transom, which is half the thickness of the transom ply. The side walls outer layer thickness of fibreglass is about 10-15mm thick whereas the transom section outer layer of glass is about 5mm at max.

Looking at the pics, You can see the join from the inside where the transom section gets thicker under the splashwell.

I got a bit trigger happy with the drill as I could not tell without looking inside. The ply on the outer wall is slightly "damp", but very sound compared to the ply in the transom. I believe the side wall ply is laminated to the outer piece of the transom ply. Thats my best guess anyways.

Heres some pics. Would this be easier from the inside lol ???? Looks as though If I did it from the inside, I would only need to cut at that join?? I dunno.. lol ! Confusing stuff. Might make a poll haha!! The guys at iboats are saying I am crazy going from the outside.. But so many have succeeded from the outside.

[Jarrah Jack]

It looks to me that if you are replaceing the ply in those outer walls then it should be an inside job, if not then outside. What has the factory suggested? Decisions decisions

[FishHunter]

Doing it from the inside is way easier. You dont have to worry about all those angles and you dont have to build up a transom skin.

I wouldnt even be thinking about doing it from the outside.

[mustang5]

Yeah well there are two supports that run along the sides and meet this section. I really don't think these side sections play too big a part in the transom strength by looking at where they connect. That is some serious fiberglass on this sections!!

[svranjic]

After having a think about it I have realised that the angles in the rear of the transom arent really that big of a problem because when you cut the outer skin leaving a 60 - 70mm perimter around the edge you will be keeping the old exterior skin.

NOTE: Whatever you do, if you do it from the rear make sure you dont damage the old skin when your prying it off. Keep this skin then you dont have to worry about re-making all the angles etc. You will simply be glassing only where your bevel join is.

If it were me I would want to be replacing ALL of the wood on that transom, no matter whether it is on the sides where the angles are or on the flat surface which is supporting the outboard. If the transom is buggered (which is obviously is) all wood needs to come out and fresh stuff back in. To do anything else is a half job and pointless. Your cutting the rear skin while your at it you may as well take the time to replace all the wood and know that its all new.

I think this case did warrant consideration of doing it from the inside...... but cutting out the splashwell and top cap etc so u can drop new wood in is going to be a pain in the ass. I would do it from the outside mate.

Also I would probably use epoxy on this one over polyester. You will find those peices of timer in the rear wont all be one peice. This is how they got the angles done. Pop the rear skin off, you will then see how the wood hase been cut and or joined. Then replicate this with new ply and epoxy. Drop your new plywood in using thickened epoxy, epoxy on your old outer skin. Bevel the edges 60mm either side, then start glassing the bevel.

You will be fine!!!!

[svranjic]

If it helps post lots of photos up of each stage, we can then give you direction.....

A photo of the rear of the boat would help, then we can indicate where to cut.

You need to mark out a line around the outside of transom which leaves a 60mm edge around the perimiter on the sides and bottom. You will need to cut the capping also so that you can drop the plywood in from the top. When you cut the capping on the splashwell do it like I did on mine, just cut the top, leaving the inside capping height of the inner splashwell in tact so that you know exactly how high it was.

Getting the old skin off wont be hard, I used long screwdrivers and bars and whacked them in with a hammer, this slowly peeled the skin off without damaging it. If its rotted it will just peel away.

Dont make the same stupid mistake that I did and leave a gap around the edges that is too big..... you will regret it when you come to fiberglass the rear back on.

Also I bet you wont be able to separate the plywood from the inner skin unless its rotted real bad throughout the whole transom. if it too hard to separate it your better of cutting the inner skin too..... it doesn't take long to glass the inside again.

See pics of my rebuild so you understand what I mean bout cutting the inside skin


Invest in a disposable overall suit, gloves, mask, goggles, hat. Cover yourself up or you will be itching and this wont be an enjoyable experience for you...... hehe

[mustang5]

Ok, day off today going to make a start.

I have decided to go the rear cutout, and going to cut with a 70mm edge, including the angle sections.

So motor off today, batteries and wiring removed, and ill draw an outline for cutout and see what you guys think.

Thanks for all the help

[mustang5]

Doing it from the inside is way easier. You dont have to worry about all those angles and you dont have to build up a transom skin.

I wouldnt even be thinking about doing it from the outside.

Yeah it would be easier, but I cant get to the angled section ply as there are main supports that run along to the inner fibreglass on the sides of the transom.

[mustang5]

Ok so motors off, cutout lines drawn.

See the attached pics.

dotted line is if I decide (Or am advised) to just cutout middle transom section??

The fibreglass on the outer wings is as thick as the ply, and the wood there doesnt seem too bad.

At the capping, it has seemed to split where the outer face meets the capping.

Opinions please I have the grinder ready haha!!

Also, I put a screwdriver down the top bolt hole and could push it all the way in with my hand. So something tells me this ply will come out easily

[mustang5]

Ok so I cut the capping off as it was rooted anyways.

looks like this is going to be easy to get the wood out lol

I measured 2 sheets at roughly 30mm thickness each, with a layer of glass in between.

If someone could tell me what thickness sheets to get that would be great.

Cheers

[svranjic]

The sides of that transom will be rotted. The transom is rotted pretty bad and I would say that has spread to the sides where the transom is angled.

I would cut the whole thing, and drop wood back in. Also where you have marked leaves a perimeter at the top. You dont want to leave anything at the top. Only leave a 70mm gave at sides and bottom. Cut the top right up to where the wood finishes which is probably just above the capping. Drill so you can see where this is, or look on the inside.

You need to be able to drop a new sheet of plywood in from the top. You cant do that by leaving a perimeter around the top. Its easier this way.

You need two pieces of plywood. If you are using epoxy there is no need to glass the two sheets together, you simply use thickened epoxy. Refer to my thread on how to do this. Basically you measure the thickness of the transom gap and then you purchase two pieces of plywood to fit. You need to allow a tiny bit so you can drop it in. But not so much that there is huge voids.

Dont even consider this part until you have gotten all the rotten wood out, that is a long way off yet...... you need to work out weather you can separate the wood from the inner skin without damaging it. By the looks of it you may be able to do so.

[mustang5]

Ok will do, but with further inspection it looks like the ply on the sides is only about 5-10mm thick, and I dont think it is connected to the transom section. The glass on the sides is about 15mm thick at least, on the outer casing.

Im sorry I dont seem to be the best at providing info.

[svranjic]

How high up does the wood go

Ie where does the wood in the transom stop??? right at the top???

Im trying to get my head around what they have done on the sides. Im thinking there are three pieces of ply. One in the middle which the motor hangs off, and then two on the sides which are angled......

Basically you need to work out how the wood inside of the transom has been placed..... then we can decide whether to cut the whole lot or just the middle.

[Jarrah Jack]

From reading what has been said it appears that the side angles have a thin peice of ply and lots of glass. It makes you wonder why they would've put the ply there in the first place.

The side ply and the rear ply I would think are not connected as there would be no strength in the join as far as the ply goes. So the strength in that angled join is in the glass and there is also some glass strut behind the join. I'm still thinking that the sides may not have to be done. Its a nice thought anyway. If there is a heap of glass there as suggested then that maybe enough.............Thats where an opinion from the factory would be handy.

So it may be a good start to just concentrate on the rear part for now and see what happens at that join once the rear ply is out.?

[odes20]

How high up does the wood go

Ie where does the wood in the transom stop??? right at the top???

Im trying to get my head around what they have done on the sides. Im thinking there are three pieces of ply. One in the middle which the motor hangs off, and then two on the sides which are angled......

Basically you need to work out how the wood inside of the transom has been placed..... then we can decide whether to cut the whole lot or just the middle.

Shane I have told him that I think cutting out just the back should be fine. If hes got 15mm glass in those side angles then its no point cutting that out.

Just my view after looking at the latest pics.

Cheers
john