WHEN will it end :(

[mustang5]

Im sure some of you have read about the endless troubles I have had with the Haines Signature 1950R (More so to do with previous owners,.... When its working its an exceptional boat)....

Anyhow, heres just another -1 for the list.... I think this is the worst of the lot of them

Took the boat out to Deep Tempest today, and had an AWESOME day on the water.

Weather was perfect, motor was running perfect and were getting monstered off each cast almost.

Coming back round Combyuro point, the boat started vibrating. I look back to inspect and see that one of the engine bolts has collapsed through the transom.

I could not believe it, and fears of the whole back of the boat collapsing were running through my mind.... So yes, as pointless as it may be, just for peace of mind we used a bit of rope and a truckies hitch just for added reassurance...

We got home eventually, after babying it back to scarborough, so I am pleased with that part..

I have attached a photo, the transom is pretty flexi so it looks like I need a new one (obviously lol.. )

So, if anyone wants to suggest some guys that replace transoms, and some rough costs involved that would be much appreciated!!!!

Hopefully this is the last problem so I can finally enjoy trouble free boating.

P.S. The mechanic who inspected and water tested this boat, as much as I would love to flame and blame him, I will not as I understand people make mistakes.. But having it sieze 10 minutes after operation, the oil not automatically transferring, the shift rod selector broken after rebuild, takes on water and now a soft transom to go with it. Its just not cricket!!!!!!

Thanks for reading.

Other than that it was an awesome day.

[deckie]

Sorry to hear about the issues. You've had some trauma's that dont just go wallet deep by the sounds.

Looks nasty i'm afraid and maybe that motor was changed over in the past and a dodgy job done with the bolts. But the bad news is by the looks of that step tread alloy capping on the transom top that water may have had a superhighway to the guts of your transom. Was it like that before or do you think the lifting/gap between the alloy and transom is recent and caused perhaps by the motor being loose on its mountings ?

You may want to ring and find out what they made these transoms out of..someone in here might know too but i dont. Also check with other owners what the transom capping was out of the factory..might be a clue if it wasnt that type of ali.

If it has been that way a long time i;d suspect the transom is gone hence the mounts having no strength...another clue is the screws holding it down look like they've never been caulked in properly never installed properly either. They need to be sika'd in properly and a good big gunk of the stuff sealing over the top pressed down into the ridges of that alloy. Water always finds a way and the ridged nature of the alloy means water is permanantly settling in it and will seep down those screw holes.. even if they appear tight that wont stop water ingress, u need to seat them in gunk along with the whole capping.

Probably a good time to remind everyone to check this part of their transom as the weight of motor and age can start lifting the capping. The ridged alloy is good but much better to replace and screwed in from the sides rather than screwholes being vertical allowing a slow steady seepage. Redoing the screws with a big blob of sika into properly watertight holes, and reseating the alloy isnt just cheap insurance...one of the most common causes of transom death along with transom mounted ladders that the apprentice fitted on a friday afternoon.

Hope u have more luck soon...and hopefully its not as bad as a quick glance looks. Perhaps its just the motor mounts that are the problem.
Steve.

[mustang5]

Yeah mate, the transom is shot, and I think you nailed it on the head with the screws on the alloy strip. They were all loose, and for how long for, only god knows.

Basically If I put some weight on the leg of the motor when its trimmed up, the transom will flex probably 50mm or so.. It really bows in the middle.

I should have noticed it by now, but it has probably just been overlooked for all the other problems Oh well we are getting there. Just someone remind me to buy NEW next time. hehe!

I will just get this done professionally. Its a 20yr old boat now, so these things would be good to have done! Will the whole transom need to be cut out?? Or can there be a local fix??? The lower part seems solid, its only the upper section. Could a metal plate be used to reduce the bow and disperse the load from the bolts through the transom ?? I dunno. I should read more before asking but ill throw it out there anyways.

Im just glad my newly recoed outboard didnt end up in the drink. At least theres a positive to it

[deckie]

Yeah if she flexes that much its probably just mush inside. You can tap around the back or even drill small pilot holes and reseal properly if unsure... thats only if unsure tho to get a feel for it, but if you're saying it flexes that much and with that buggered mount a clue there's no real doubt i'd say.
Worst thing is it doesnt really matter that its 10, 20 or 30 yo it was all preventable and she could still have a perfectly good bum if only things were done properly.

Whilst she's a well known brand and not known for quality control problems its even worth checking a brand new rig as soon as they're home..the entire manufaturing base in Aust (be it boats or condoms) felt that quality control was someone else's problem...better these days but i still wouldnt trust any factory. Plenty of reports of rigs with things not working straight out of the factory...a clue noone even checked it before delivery so how can u then trust anything during construction ?..or whether the bungs are even sealed/done watertight ? Wouldnt say haines is known for this tho over their time...quite the opposite so likely been shoddy work done by previous owner or a shop cutting corners. Is it the original motor ?...if not the damage may have been done when repowering. 20yrs really is nothing for good f/glass but unfortunately we can only double check what others do cutting and rilling into it allowing water to get to the vulnerable parts. You'd think for instance getting a pro to fit something like a ladder or transducer that u could assume its done right but i wouldnt....ever. If everything was simply done right with due care taken 20yrs shouldnt be even close to "old" with a glass rig that hasnt had a hard life.

There's two way sthey can attack the transom...from the back or inside....neither is a particularly happy experience for your wallet but generally from the back is a little cheaper and fine. needs to be quoted properly but as a guess i'd expect anywhere from 2K to 4K depending on the work needed, reputation and method. Some say the best is cutting out from the inside but also depends what amount of work/condition of the back..u see some boats with umpteen assorted old holes and bolt holes into the transom but a good glasser will colour match it all perfectly to the point u wouldnt even be able to tell. New capping and decide if u want ski-hooks/ladders etc refitted or not before the work is done. From the back is likely the way he'll go i guess but i'm afraid they wont/cant just do a bit..must be the whole shebang to be done right and no skilled tradie wants to compromise their name with a temporary compromise.

Steel plates are good added strength used for mountings but will only lull you into a bigger problem if the transom is mush...as u said u might have been lucky u didnt lose the donk u've spent good money on. They use plate stainless about 8-10mm but the sheer weight of it means u cant really do the entire transom and it'd only be temp anyway. If it already has some plates tho u may want to keep them even on the new transom.

I cannot believe the guy u had look at her at purchase didnt even pick up on the transom. Its one of the first things he should've looked at and with the amount of flex u describe i cant see how he could miss it.

Good luck mate.

[FishHunter]

My boat is in getting the transom done right now (from the inside) and the bloke doing it refuses to refit the alloy capping as he reckons its the number 1 cause of soggy transoms.

[death_ship]

i feel for ya, expensive lesson in old boat maintenance, hopefully floor and stringers are good. scary when the motor is falling off. whoever inspected it for ya needs rooting

[Kero]

Hi Mustang5,
I just had my transom replaced at the start of this year. It's a '90 model boat, and transom started to go soft.
I can recommend Nick at Marine Works (Scarborough Marina). He did a great job on mine, and made a few small mods that will definitely help keeping water out in the future. His pricing was very competetive compared to others that I'd spoken to.
I hope you have some better luck come your way soon!
PM me if want any more info.

Nick Sprenger
Marineworks
3880-2899
0413 447 450

[PADDLES]

keep ya chin up mustang, you've had a few hassles but you'll end up with a pretty good rig after all your trouble.

[Jarrah Jack]

Feel for you Mustang with all the other problems especially when you did everything right and had a so called pro inspect the boat on purchase. Not the first instance I've come across of the inspector getting it wrong.

Hope things turn out better for you after all this..

[Moonlighter]

Arnold's Fibreglass is the mob who all my GRP owning mates recommend for this sort of work.

Might even be worth asking Haines Signature Boats if they do this work or will qoute you - understand they are not too busy on new boats at the moment.

Cheers

ML

[Pazz01]

My boat is in getting the transom done right now (from the inside) and the bloke doing it refuses to refit the alloy capping as he reckons its the number 1 cause of soggy transoms.

Exactly the issue. Same thing happened with ours. No capping on it now.

They all need doing, wouldn't be too many boats of that era that don't need it or have not got it done.

Pazz

[Makka Nick]

Arnold's Fibreglass is the mob who all my GRP owning mates recommend for this sort of work.

Might even be worth asking Haines Signature Boats if they do this work or will qoute you - understand they are not too busy on new boats at the moment.

Cheers

ML

Arnolds are great but very expensive. Try calling Tony at Galeforce Boats, he did a fantastic job on my V17R, just don't feel too tempted to buy one of his designs while you're there! His boats look like they mean business.

[mustang5]

Has anyone tried seacast before??? All reports seem pretty good, and for a few hours of rotten wood removal and $300 from the US, Is it worth a go???

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/mat...res-18939.html

Thats a pic by pic tutorial on someone doing it, and have found many similar stories whilst searching around??? They all say they end up with a VERY hard transom after a couple of hours, and it floats??

Can anyone tell me a bad experience with it?? Or am I wasting my time??

[Chimo]

Hi M5

Have you seen this? http://www.transomrepair.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=4

A bit more detail. Looks like a good product thats been around for years.

Could be a good little business here as it seems to be in the US and Can for their repairers across the Nth Am continent.

Cheers
Chimo

[Vitamin Sea]

i feel for ya, expensive lesson in old boat maintenance, hopefully floor and stringers are good. scary when the motor is falling off. whoever inspected it for ya needs rooting

Good choice of words Brett, couldn't have said it better

Mustang, it's a bitch mate, no good at all, as has been mentioned, it's the ally cover strip, or more to the point, the screw holes that bugga it up.

There's a fella down Jacobs Well way that does this work, let me know if you want a number. Dont'y know about Arnolds, heard a couple of things that I won't discuss on here.

Good luck, bloody boats!

Cheers

VS