Thanks but unfortunately not an option. Boat is out the front in the driveway and the missus wont allow a shed type arrangement. It would also be nice to be able to leave some gear in the boat locked up between trips rather than keep carting it all inside.
As per the post I put in the Boating Forum, I had a dead space under the leaning post on my New Edgewater centre console so I made a cabinet for tackle trays, lures, leader etc. I also had some space under the rear tool station at the transom so I rigged up a cutlery container to put used lures, sinkers, jigheads, tackle etc in for rinsing later on.
Here's some picks.
It is not hard to turn your garden hose on and off using a wireless remote control. Dead easy, in fact.
All you need to do is connect your garden tap via a bit of garden hose to the sort of solenoid valve that you will find in the gardening section at Bunnings for $20 - $30... http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...bType=products
Ostensibly there is a bit of science in selecting the right size of solenoid valve because it is the water pressure that keeps the valve closed until the solenoid is operated. If you have plenty of water pressure at your place then it is not so much of a problem but if your water pressure is a bit weak, you might like to Google "solenoid watering system valves" and look for info on how to select the right size based on your water flow as measured by how long it takes you to fill a bucket. However, at my Brisbane suburban home, the water pressure is pretty strong so I just took a punt on the commonly available 25MM valve and it worked out fine.
These sorts of valves are operated by a safe voltage, 24V AC. That means that you will need a transformer to convert from your home 240V mains power to 24V. Typically, the solenoid valves need about 400 mA to operate. So, thinking back to your high school physics classes, you will recall that the power being used is calculated by multiplying the voltage by the current. Sooooo.....24V X 400mA = 9.6W. That means that you will need a transformer that is rated to deliver about 10 Watts, albeit usually, they use the unit "VA" rather than watts when applied to transformers. For these purposes, just consider that VA = watts albeit it ain't necessarily so, strictly speaking, but a technical gobbledegook explanation as to why will make your eyes water and is not important to this project. 10 Watts is bugger all so it will cost very, very little on your electricity bill to operate this system.
I have not seen any transformers in Bunnings but they are readily available in irrigation type shops and online. eg .... http://www.rockaroundtheblock.com.au...nsformers.html
Strictly speaking, you really ought to get a waterproof transformer. However, if it is well housed in a waterproof container, then what the heck, a $25 internal transformer should do the job nicely.
In the pictures of my set-up below, you will see that I have used a humongous waterproof transformer that is mounted in the open air. That transformer is 20 times larger than it needs to be but I got it at a price that made me want it so don't think that that size of transformer is what is required. It isn't. It is just what I used because I had it.
Finally, the bit that makes it all work is a wireless remote controller. You simply connect the powerpoint controller to the 240V power and plug in the transformer to it. With the transformer connected to the solenoid valve, presto!....you have a wireless remotely controlled water supply to your garden hose.
Typically, you will pay $25 - $30 for a set comprising the wireless remote and two to four powerpoint controllers. You can get internal and external varieties. Naturally, the external types cost a bit more but once again, if the powerpoint controller is housed in a waterproof box, it should not matter if the controller is meant to go outside or not.
From my experience, it is hard to go past the controllers sold by Aldi. You will find the Kambrook controllers in the electrical department at Bunnings. They work fine in close proximity but it is hard to go past the Bauhn brand external controllers that Aldi sell. Their range well exceeds the Kambrook; they are cheaper; the remotes are more stylish; and as seen in the picture below, they have a very small remote which could, in fact, be tied to a lanyard around the user's neck. Unfortunately, Aldi only sell these things as part of their "special promotions" every few months. However, they are worth getting if you see them advertised at Aldi. http://www.aldi.com.au/au/html/offers_20121103.htm
You will also see from the pix below, that I house the power point switch in a weatherproof box. The one that I have used is a beauty costing just $10 from Masters Hardware. At the time of writing this, it is Christmas so they have been in popular demand for use with Christmas lights and are sold out in pretty well every Masters. However, they are worth grabbing when stocks reappear. http://www.masters.com.au/product/90...er-connections
Likewise, the solenoid valve sits in a box to protect its wiring from the weather. Available for $5 from Masters Hardware... http://www.masters.com.au/product/90...und-160mm-deep
So there you have it. Of course, you will need a power point somewhere near your garden tap but you can sort that out.
My installation works a treat. Most times I use it for turning a sprinkler on and off remotely but it is damn handy for little tasks like turning the water on and off to my Gerni when I am up a ladder. Simple enough to build if you want to.
Merry Christmas, everyone!
I thought I would chuck up my magnificent work of art!
How to mount a bow mount electric on bow rails... my Bunnings special!
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mate seems a bit of hardware involved, to stop it from twisting did you have to brace it the the gunwale?
It probably looks more complex than it is. I reckon I would not have spent more than $50 on the parts (not including the minn kota quick release bracket).
I drilled 4 holes through the bow rail and stuck a bolt in each one. Then those brackets have rubber feet on them and they press down on the bow if there is any twist. The 4 bolts prevent the twist really, the feet are just there to be sure.
All you have to do is undo the 4 bolts and the whole thing comes off in one piece. I rarely do that as the motor utilises the quick release bracket. If you are out on the water and you dont take the electric (rarely in my case) then the little platform works well for those little $20 portable cookers.
I just wasnt keen on gridning away bow rails and welding on a plate at the front.
I'm in the same situation. Just finished my quintrex fishabout project and a trolling motor was an after thought. My bow rails are a bit higher then yours and I wont be cutting anything.
Wandering if its possible to reverse a bow mount to have on the stern. Would be good to have the remote control. Havn't seen any remote transom mounts?
transom mounts push and bow mounts pull. in both cases, pointy end goes first. dragging your boat around by the transom will be difficult to steer (excepting recorded tracks on the i-pilot) and create a lot of drag costing you both speed and battery power. if a 60" shaft wont do it, cutting may be your only option. have a look at minn kota website. they have a tool to assist you with working out the shaft length: http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/Originally Posted by cwcarter
fishing's as simple as 3 P's - patience, perserverance and PLASTIC!
Storing live bait jig rigs.
There is probably a better idea out there but for now i have cut 2 bits 25mm electrical conduit about 1200mm long and cable tied upright to my fixed bimini frame. Each has a groove cut 1/2 inch long with a hacksaw from the top edge down. When done stealing slimies from kindergarten, you dump the sinker (must be the appropriate size obviously) in the conduit, the rig all slides down under the weight of the sinker and the last inch of line and swivel sit out through the hacksaw groove so it doesn't all fall down the tube. My kids are very impressed and have far less holes in them these days.
Another idea for clumbsy blokes like me is to use old broken surf board leg ropes to retain bait knives, burley mashers and hook pliers to boats that would otherwise end up mysteriously missing after a fishing trip with the kids. These velcro attachments wrap round bait board legs etc. There is always one good end left after snapped.
Here's my latest idea to aid in recovery of your boat if it gets knocked off and hopefully catch the thieves red handed.
A canvas sign that slides into sail track mounted somewhere on the back of the boat and the sign reads something like this.
"Boat is stolen, call Police immediately. Reward offered"
"Contact the owner on 04xx xxx xxx"
Obviously remove the sign before the owner tows it anywhere and keep it hidden if the boat is parked on the front lawn etc as you don't want the sign seen and people calling it in. To keep it hidden you could roll it up, fasten lightly with a paper clip and attach a line to a brick on the ground (or a tree) so it rolls out as soon as the boat is moved.
Hopefully a good Samaritan would see the sign when it travelling and call it in. Bonus points if they follow the boat and lead the Police and/or owner to it.
You could try self-adhesive velcro tape instead of double-sided tape. This would allow you to remove the perspex for cleaning.
just feed a nylon rope through each link, tie off at the ends. reduces noise by heaps. I now leave anchor in bow roller, tied off of course, no mud in boat, don't lose deck space to anchor well. bryn-e-bass
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