G';day everyone,
I've attached some photos of a couple of my newest. One is a buttwrap I completed a little while ago and posted prior to the epoxy. The second is a 37kg United Composite with All American rollers and an ALPS bent butt. I use the Abalone technique Owen used on his a little while ago (thanks again Owen). I found applying the veneer harder than applying a snakeskin with CP. Next time I'll try a glue. The joins are as close to invisible as you can get.
Regards
Mark
Outback Rods
Mark
Abalone shell can be difficult to work with at the best of times. Selecting the right thickness can be difficult at times especially when it comes to smaller diameters. I have been using the shell for over 12 years on game rods for a US based tackle company. I have used all types of shell at differing degrees of thickness and cost. I have used the very thin shell which is good to work with but then poses other problems like translucency such as Owen experienced.
If you can source some shell around 1mm thick with a very good adhesive backing you are more than half way there. I score the back of the sheet which helps with wrapping the shell around the blank; you must then use a fast setting epoxy such as 5 minute Z poxy to help hold the shell in place. As I said, I have been using the shell for a bit over 12 years and with much practice you can get the shell looking like opal which looks awesome. I have also used South African sea snail shell which cost $200 US per sheet for one customer in the States. Man this stuff looks incredible in the sun.
I haven’t been able to share my experience with the shell because I was under contract and not able to discuses anything about the rods. I’m pretty sure it was these rods that got the whole abalone movement going in the states years ago when the rods first appeared at the Miami boat show, it was around 1 week after I noticed threads popping up about the rods with abalone at the show.
Stu
That is some awesome stuff there. Would take a while to do I reckon and cost a pretty penny!!
very nice job done nice to see good quality work.
cheers hilly
incredible work there. Looks the goods. I am looking forward to getting back on the saddle and making some of these works of art.
nice work mark,those inlays look sweet
i will give it a go when i get a chance
Stuart are you able to post any pics of that snail shell?
Also guys, I have an idea about a rod I may get built down the track that involves some Abalone shell. I was thinking of adding some of yellow EKG shell (attached) between the butt rap and the stripper guide. Then I was looking at putting a small binding pattern on top. Is this possible and if so how would it be done?
Would putting this shell pattern (without the overbinding) between the last guide and the tip also work?
I haven't made any rods since I was a teenager so would have to get this done but I wouldn't be surprised if any one in my neck of the woods has tried this before.
Thanks, Mark.
The photos just dont show up any colour at all mate. The colour only shows up in the sun.
Stu
ok fair enough. I see you suggested if I were to use this Abalone shell you say to look for a 1 mm thickness? So far I could only find 0.15 mm, way off.
As long as the shell isn’t so thin that it is transparent.
Stu
Mark,Originally Posted by Daintreeboy
The product I used is very thin and flexible. Mark has used the same product here.
I have had no problems using it on the tip of a 40-80lb rod, but I wouldn't do it on a light rod. Besides being too bulky, you need some surface area to be able to see the patterns.
The product is semi-transparent so you need a background colour to enhance the colours in the shell. For the Paua/Abalone, you need a black or very dark background.
On the shell you show above a yellow background may work better.
The greens and blues of the abalone show up win the light much better than in a photo, s before you apply it, just hold your sheet in front of a coloured card to see what happens with different backgrounds.
There is no issue with putting a trim wrap over the top. In fact it would help hold it in place.
I overwrap the whole thing after gluing to hold it while it sets and remove the thread after.
The traditional shell that has been used is much thicker and harder to work with. Cracking can be a real issue especially on smaller diameters.
As far as the quality of the result...
You'd have to hold them side by side. Both are real shell, it's only how they are prepared that differs.
I'm very happy with the flexible product as it opens up far more opportunities.
As long as you use the correct background to enhance the colours in the shell it is the perfect solution. No different to putting white thread on a black blank. If you don't paint the blank white first you won't get as good a result.
PM me if you want details of where to get the good stuff.
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
Thanks for the comments eeryone. Mark, take Owen's advice! This product is extremely good to use and perfect for rods with a larger surface area. I found it a little difficult to get it to stick in place but I only used CP to hold it together and I did bind it down the same way Owen did with his. One little hint, because each sheet is on the expensive side, measure twice, cut once. You don't want to waste any of the material due to poor measurements etc. Stuart is right in his comment above, this stuff is brilliant in the sunlight.
Regards
Mark
One last question. How do you do the join? Do you have a little overlay?
All explained here.
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...98&postcount=6
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
Hi Mark fantastic work love looking at the rods you build the inlays look great, have decided to have a go myself now thanks to you and Owen putting the help tips on here for all, order some sheets from Ross and hope to put some on a nv10 and nv12 samurai blank, soon always appreciate the work contributed and posted online cheers Darryl
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