Reply With Quotei wouldnt trust northside, get a second opinion, thats going on my past dealings
Possibly the old windsor block as well running the old cast cams as opposed to billet and roller stuff on later models. I think mid 90's was when the next generation of blocks were used.
There are guys that know these backwards and where to find stainless exhausts and risers as replacements so when you find out any more details it will help track down original or aftermarket parts.
i wouldnt trust northside, get a second opinion, thats going on my past dealings
If it turns out to be a head problem ,maybe you could talk to the guys at nothside cylinder head specialists they do total rebuilds and are good at it they are in delta street at geebung Ph: 3265 2311 they have been there for years and are old school mechanics they have all the equipment onsite to do anything that you may need and if they cant fix it they may be able to steer you in the right direction ....matt
A bad days fishing has got to be better than any day at work......
What Death Ship said.
And my guess is that it will be a Ford block. As someone else mention, you can buy a "crate" motor to replace it for not a lot of cash if things do turn for the worst.
It is well worth looking further yourself.
Cheers,
Myles
Either way, please keep us all up to date with your findings. Now that I've read the thread, I'm keen to know the outcome.
along the lines of what others have said, I've been playing with old V8s for 10+ years now (I know, not that long compared to many others), but I've had some horrible scares based on water/oil leaks coming from one spot and showing up somewhere else. So, don't give up hope just yet!
I'm thinking pod and outboard:rolleyes:
I'm thinking I'm willing to lay a $5 scratchy as a wager that it's the riser leaking or stuffed due to corrosion.
Part #45 http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson...arts/32221.cfm
Very common problem and there's a mob somewhere down the Goldy who make stainless sets up for near the price of the cast ones.
PM me the contact details to send the scratchy if I lose though because I have been known to be wrong.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
PP - Mate its a terrible thing to see that sort of thing turn up...I feel for you mate. Your heart just sinks. Mate apart from all the excellent suggestions above can I add this. If if needs a new motor, the cost of a new mercruiser from here (especially if you need a leg too) is prohibitive to say the least). A mate of mine just got a brand new Mercruiser 350 Chev MPI (even has flames on the valley cover...) with smart gauges, bullhorns, electrics, and brand new leg to suit imported from the states from, as the yanks would say, some real swell guys (who do the export around the world all the time) for about $15,000 landed....then get a merc dealer such as Cooparoo Marine to fit it up....Still expensive exercise cause you would have to be looking at $4k or so to pull out the old motor and fit up the new one including having to change engine mount points, any other glass work needed etc and all the wiring and gauge fitting, but a hell of a lot better than the alternative new one here.
Cheers mate and let us know what you find.
Boat: Seafarer Vagabond
Live: Great South East....love Moreton Bay fishing
Just a bulk thanks to all you guys for the suggestions and/or advice on ths problem.
Really appreciated and has given me a bit of confidence back again ..............
I am hoping against hope it is the water hose that has gone so will be taking that off today and seeing what is going on, a good scrub and clean down might reveal the culprit plus, as suggested, a close up look while the beast is running might show "something" ...
The fact the donk is running so sweetly is steering me away from thinkling of a cracked head or block.
Cheers
My old man had a problem with his XF ford motor yrs ago, it kept using alot of water with no explanation.
He put something in the radiator think it was like a stop leak wynns or something and it fixed the problem 100% He sold the car 2 years later with no dramas.
I used the same stuff in a motorcross bike once that had a leaking radiator, it worked a treat.
Give that stuff a go you have nothing to lose!?
Originally Posted by bugman
$25k after 17 years to buy a new 260 odd h.p. engine - including removal of the old and fitting up the new one.
Doesn't seem too over the top to me - and that's with Northside ripoff merchants doing then work...
I can't see outboards and pods even being in the race.
even at the worst you should only need the engine... aftermarket $6-10k.
the inboards have a lot more going for them than people give credit.
There is very little that isn't fixable by someone with the right skills.
I have a mate arround the corner who specilises in reparing broken bits of motorbikes....particularly motors.....one of his big money spinners is fixing harley heads.....he rips out the ####ed valve guides and with a big TIG and some machining tears them a whole new one.
I've seen various stuff he has done......i't'd be a sad case in deed he couldn't fix.
There are quite a few blokes like this arround.... any good head mangler should sort the head.
If you have to pull and disasemble the bottm end..ahh thats a bit of a drag..... but maybe reasonable.
don't be too down hearted till you see what that actual situation is.
cheers
Its the details, those little details, that make the difference.
Good, bad and good news on this problem guys!
Firstly I found a small pin hole leak in the water hose (as suggested) and though very small, it would be enough to cause a lot of the corrosion as shown on the pic.
I gave the area a good clean and scratch back and ran the motor for about fifteen minutes after which there is definitely a very slow and "just" discernible water leak coming through the joint between the head and the block.
At best it was just a glistening of water so I figure the corroded area is very minimal and will take one of the other good advices herein and feed some of that "seal-all" product through it and see what happens before I embark on a full tear-apart job.
Again with thanks to the posters on this subject, I have got onto a gang in the US where I can get a gasket (Crowley Marine).
The unbelievable costs at Northside Marine, now at $90 per hour labor and a replacement Mercruiser come out at some $25-28000 and that is just far too much for an eighteen year old boat that no doubt is ageing in other expensive areas - sort of like throwing good money after bad!
I may yet have to go down the path of replacing the donk and will follow the suggestions already given.
Once again , many thanks for all the positive and constructive replies to this problem from everybody, will keep updated as appropriate.
This is only my thinking ... the seal all is a short term solution and as we know with corrosion, it won't get any smaller.
Now that you are on top of some parts issues and have some good advice on how to fix the head why don't you just take the head off. Buy a manual from the states if possible. You may get away with spending nothing like 25k and have a good motor and boat for a long time yet.
Is there a mobile mechanic that can help if you get into trouble. The last thing you want is for the problem to stop the motor when you are out on the water somewhere.
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