I have just bought a boat that has the 2003 Evinrude DI motor and was looking for some feedback on this motor. I am under the impression that this motor was the transition between the Ficht and the E-tec. Is this correct? are there any known issues with this motor?
Originally Posted by scottishguy
Hi Scotty,
Most of the FICHT problems were associated with the small block 150-175 motors.
In 2002 Bombardier took over the dying OMC business and produced the 3.3 l big blocks with much improved electronics,especially the EMM. They aren't the old Fichts, they were Direct Injection and have big strong internals, closer engine tolerances and not much changed from the current E-Tec's.
Fuel economy should be similar to an E-Tec in the mid to WOT RPM range but will not have the extremely low fuel usage of an E-Tec while trolling in the stratified injection RPM range. Power is also on par with the current E-Tec's, that motor of yours is a real torque monster, they are probably one of the most powerfull production 2 stroke outboards built and as for 4 strokes they aren't worth a mention as you will never see one go past your rig.
Soot / Carbon is the big killer of any 2 stroke engine, this is what got Evinrudes FICHT in trouble early on, the Evinrude engineering team that developed the FICHT though they had engineered a bullet proof powerhead confirmed through 1000's of hours of WOT testing. In the real world many many FICHT outboards are still running today, for people that water ski or run hard offshore to bottom bounce the FICHT was never a problem. What killed these engines was carbon forming in the ring lands during extended hours of trolling at low RPM, then when the engines were opened up and run hard on the way home the pistons and rings would expand with rising engine temperature, the rings would have a layer of carbon behind them and with on where to go would expand and grab the bore, another seized powerhead was the result.
Many 2 strokes over the years have had design problems of this nature over the years, Yamaha had similar problems with their 3 ring design a few years ago.
Most of this was all history when your Evinrude DI outboard was released, but if you want to get the best from her you still need to feed your engine a healthy diet.
If it was my engine I would olny use quality BRP oil designed for FICHT and E-Tec engines, use good quality fresh fuel and de-carbon the powerhead as per Evinrude maintenance procedure.
These are big strong engines, drive it like you stole it, properly maintain it, and enjoy her.
Cheers,
Pete.
If it is a 2003 it is in fact made by BRP , probably a ficht ram or later, same as the etec just before their tacky marketing blitz. It won't be as light o the fuel as the current ones but is a lot better than any 2 stroke if propped right
Only let someone who knows them inside out and is qualified to do a service on it.
Hopefully since you have just bought it you had it inspected and got a complete download from the ECU ( computer ) as it will tell if any codes have happened, correct hours, rev range it has operated at etc. Check compressions for a start as it will tell you condition..
Only run it on XD 100 and you will have no worries and no water in the fuel.
They were a strong and reliable motor propped right with correct oil , battery, and fresh fuel.
If you grab your serial number and call a dealer a nice dealer will look it up and tell you any history they have in the system for it along with updates , recalls or such.
edit Mate you are only a few minutes from Downes marine in Bowen - give him a call , let him check it out , as he knows these motors and will tell you all the good and bad
Mate,
I used to have a 2005 150 DI Evinrude and it was a good motor. The only reason i got rid of it was after a service i had lots of issues with overheating and oil leaking. I need a reliable motor as i fished in remote locations with no radio comms and after the issues i had i had no faith in the motor. This was the service centre not the outboard. They are prety good on fuel and plenty of get up and go.
Be carfull with the oil you run. I was told by Evinrude tech not to run the XD100 as the motors are not designed for it. Only run the XD50. Also the XD50 is cheaper. Have it serviced and you should have trouble free boating.
By the way i had 400hrs on it after 2 1/2 years with a lot of trolling. Used to average about 1km per ltr on a 6.5mtr plate boat.
Witht the early model large block fichts (which came out in 1999) you seem to either get a good one or a bad one.
we had 4 V6's all 225's had to rebuild 2 out of the 4 .. did around 1200hrs on each engine. Hope you never have to do anything major as the parts prices have to be seen to be beleived.. we only ever ran castrol Super outboard TCW3 oil and never hyad an noil issue.. just injector problems.
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
I have a 2005 175 ficht with 350 trouble free hours.
Alan Downes is the man to talk to.
He recommended only xd 50 for mine.
Best of luck, do your homework, get Alan to have a look.
Brendan
My new boat comes with a 175hp 02 evinrude.
I did tons of research and from what I gathered the only concern are in the pre 02 models before they got bought out.
But as mentioned above, you can get the engine's serial checked by a tech to see any issues it may have had.
But anything DI 02 onwards should be fine.
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. This has given me some comfort. I will take it to Downes and have it checked out.
The motor has done 140hrs according to the owner/guage, will I be able to get this verified on the computer? Will Downes be able to do ECU updates if required?
Downes will be able to give you the correct engine hours as for ecu updates Im not sure. The first thing I would do is take it to Downes and get a comprehensive service, may cost a few bucks but you will have piece of mind that the motor is all good and thats priceless.
With your service get a complete print out of all code screens and revs , serial numbers , hours etc. Keep it and have the hot and cold compression numbers written on it for future reference. Do it at every service . Loss in compression will give a early indication of injector issue as it will either scuff or carbon up and may not indicate a error code on the ecu.
Make sure at service that sensor wires are removed to prove they are working. No use having sensors without proving they work. Oil, air, fuel temp.
Esure the ECU cooling tube is checked for salt deposits and that electrical outputs re checked and in range. Have the motor checked that it is actually reaching operating temperature at low revs. They run much better at correct temp
Mark your oil container. Note oil usage in a log at start and end of day. If it isn't using much or is using heaps get it looked at. The harder you run it the more oil it will use especially if it isn't propped right. Simple 2 minute a journey proof that all is OK with motor. When they are sick they use more oil and lots more fuel and if you notice it early you will prevent damage
Before you take it in for service take it for a run and write down the revs and speed and a WOT run. This will tell the person servicing it if it is propped right and if he has to do a precautionary decokeing treatment. Do some sharpish turns and see if the prop ventilates and tell them as it may be the engine height that can be adjusted in the shop.
Since you don't know the history get the serial numbers on injectors ( including oil injector) checked against the numbers in the ECU. Takes 2 minutes to do. A lot of stupid backyarders and mechanics replaced injectors with ones off ebay etc and didn't load the correct coefficients into the ECU. That will mean early death to the motor
Make sure your ownership details are updated in the dealer system as well.
Get Downes to make sure it was rigged right with correct battery and also correct fuel tube size fronm tank and correct feul bulb. Many were never rigged right and that caused issues.
I know nothing wrong with using XD100 in that model except the bloody high price of it - should be able to refill from drum at workshop or buy cases cheaper than silly retail prices. XD50 may be being suggested for motors that sit for long periods between use ( I think it does have a better film strength) but xd100 is a cleaner oil which will leave less deposits. Any idea the real reason why XD50 was suggested?
Sorry to ist so many things but part of the reason these motors gt a poor rep was they were never set up right. The extra time spent fixing that now can save you a whole lot of trouble in the future.
I still have 30 plus new sparkplugs 10 screwed in once to index as well for these motors and a couple of lower units ( one factory brand new) and props if anyone is interested as we no longe run them.
Hope you get may troublefree hours out of the motor and boat
tell me more about this cheap cialis, asking for a mate
Bit hard up is he ?
Must be desperate, dredging up a 13 year old post to advertise "stuff"
& here I was getting all excited about another ETEC thread ....... bummer
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
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