Which Landcruiser - Petrol or Diesel???

[Kevaclone]

1400k's from 140 litres (90+50) = 10L/100. Not going to happen. 13L/100 = 1076k's. So with exhaust and variables 1200k's max.

With 33 muds on gearing wouldnt have changed too much. But rolling diametre and wind resistance, also loss of power and torque due to muds come into play. Not to mention it would have put your speedo and trip metre out inwhich youd be getting more that what your saying. Some engines are better than others. But how come your getting 100k's more than others? Stock engines get 650ish. With the mods your talking about low 600ish.

my distances are always measured with GPS not the speedo
fitting the 33s put the speedo within 1kph of actual speed, previously is was 4kph out


10L/100 is quite achievable, mate did a run to Wagga from Texas and got just over 1400klms from his 2007 100 TD with factory tyres, ARB bullbar and side bars


Loss of power was a problem when I had the 1HZ engine, I lost over 200klms range when I fitted the 33inch MTRs and there was a definite lack of acceleration, I got back 100klms when I fitted the 1HDT and will now go from 60kph at the bottom of the Gateway bridge to 110kph at the top, fully loaded with camping gear and passengers


I wouldn't mind trying it out with standard tyres but I'm guessing around 1300klms with my heavy right foot,
I think I need to have the injectors redone as it blows a bit too much black smoke at idle
#


At the moment my new TD auto Prado 3 door is averaging 10.2L/100, mostly urban, vehicle has just 550klms on it so that figure should improve, looking at around 800klms from the single 87L tank

[BenDover]

Roo boy - We are all talking about different engines here. The 1HDT, not the 1HDFT late 80 series, or the 1HDFTE in the 100 series, nor a turbo'd 1HZ.

Cant get 10 at the best of times. 12ish is it. 13-14 is normal. So for you to get 10 with 33 muds and loaded with camping and some beach work is pretty fullon.

[PADDLES]

for our 105 with n/a 1hz we normally get about 1120 or so km for about 125L of fuel with the car lightly loaded and driving in stop/start traffic for about 25% of our commute into town. if we do a straight highway run lightly loaded we get around 1200km for 125L and if we are loaded up it's around 1050 or so km. we try to never go over 100km/h and also never try to accellerate quickly from a standstill, we generally just cruise everywhere because the thing's so slow, it makes a massive difference to fuel consumption. we also use the stocko japanes dunlop 7.5x16 tyres on splitties and pump em up like rocks (45-50psi).

[BenDover]

Ha ha... I dont know how you survive Paddles . Thats good eco. Your doing everything right obviously. Right down to the hard as a rock skinny's. Its really worth turboing it though. Can do it yourself for just over $1000 not including tune or exhaust. Your eco will suffer, but its worth it.

[PADDLES]

yeah, our slow old jallopy gives other road users the sh!ts sometimes, but you get there in the end. turbo would be a bit quicker, but we'll just keep the beasty stock as a rock and see how long she lasts for, i frikkin hate changing cars, i always lose too much money.

[BenDover]

Dont change, turbo that engine.

[FNQCairns]

I am in the same boat as paddles, when I pop the bonnet the simplicity is totally awesome!, same as when i look under the car -totally awesome!

My NA td4.2 is I think slower than his cruiser, no use going accelerating fast unless it can corner fast which it cannot, so slow acceleration and steady driving gets me there in the same time as everyone else who also drives lawfully.

Offroad shamefully it could do with an extra 20hp but that's what they made chicken tracks for

Every now and then i get enthusiastic over buying a caravan turbo and fitting it myself but a couple of days later the urge is gone..it is what it is and is what i knew it was when I bought it, I touch 11L/100km on trip that to me from such low maintence vehicle with it's known ability is awesome also!

Now I need it to die before I do so I can trade up! probaly not going to happen considering it's an NA 4.2

cheers fnq

cheers fnq

[chisel]

Best I'm seeing is about 11L/100km in my TD with no load ... it could be a bit lower but I've never done a long enough run unloaded and highway-only to test it.
But I'm still happy. Overall avg is 13.7L/100km over 25000kms so far and that is mostly around town or loaded up on trips.
I don't think I could get 1200km out of a tank though even at 11L/100km ... I usually chicken out with about 15L left (combined in both tanks).

[gtphantom]

hey Heath ----------- the topic seems to have digressed somewhat . pretty hard to make a decision with all the info being bandied around
I think that there is plenty of good advice been posted but ultimately the quality of the product that you are looking at is as-good-as-it-gets so if you weigh up all the info and make a decision that suits you I personally think that there wont be a lot in it
I would only buy a diesel if I were towing a large percentage of the time and if I were traveling more than 30 000k per year -------------- other wise the V8 petrol is the winner , and if you buy one already on gas all the better
when I last worked in the auto trade with taxis I think the figures quoted were 100 000k to recoup the install cost of gas?
IMO the maint costs of diesels are to high plus the added bowser price
all the best

[Kevaclone]

#
NOWAYYYY... Whats your secret??

a few things that I do
first of all, I don't rev the engine past 3000-3200rpm
the 1HZ or the 1HDT
the max torque of both these engines are way down low(around 1600 for the 1HDT and 2200 for the 1HZ)


taking them much past 3000 is just wasting fuel as you get better acceleration by changing up a gear
the 1HZ I used to change at 3100 and that would put it back to 2200-2300 in the next gear
The 1HDT I change at 2600 and bring it back to 1600-1700 in the next gear
but I normally short shift from 1st at about 2200 if I take off in 1st, but I do start off in 2nd quite abit


Also I hardly ever, if at all, floor the accelerator pedal, I press far enough so that the engine is pulling hard, any further and you just put extra fuel in for almost no gain, as the revs rise I may have to press a bit further


when climbing hills I back off the accelerator until the engine power starts to drop then press just a bit more, sometimes you can feel it actually pull harder just before the power drops as before, flooring it will just pump in more fuel for no real gain

[PADDLES]

i follow a similar driving style keva, except i short shift at around 2400 if i'm not loaded or around 3000 if loaded. i actually prefer to hold a few more revs and not change gears to get over hills and also generally prefer a few more revs and leaner throttle settings for real heavy loads. but like you, i very rarely have the go pedal pushed to the floor, the poor frikkin thing doesn't go fast anyway.

g'day chisel, i run mine until the little yellow light flashes on the dash, it actually flashes when the sub-tank runs low as well, i had a moment of panic the other week when i discovered this and had already ran the main tank down.

like has been said though, we digress, you won't be dissapointed with either a diesel or petrol cruiser.

[rockfisho]

I drive a HZ equipped 80 series. I have found the same thing as Keva, its an odd power curve in that diesel. I love the tenacity at really low revs (800 to 1000) will just keep ticking over in the worst of things.

With shifting, i change up at 2100 revs on the flat, up hills its obviously a different matter.

With regards to this thread, i have already posted an answer, hence dont need to repeat myself

The funny thing with the engine, is you wont red line the engine when its under no load unless you fully depress the pedal, but under a fair bit of load, you can certainly still red line it by hitting the floor. In comparison to a petrol all you have to do is give it about 3/4 of boot (perhaps less) when idling and itll hit red.

Owen

[littlemac]

hey heath,

i have a 100 series v8. it tows a hh 600r breeze 2. something tonne and tows it great. i have 4 kids as well. if want comfort and a non agricutural feeling go the v8.the missus will prefer filling it and driving it to. stuff it the v8 is better.
if your moving a 2.5 tonne car and 2 tonne boat you are going to use fuel full stop.
plus you cant beat the sound

cheers

brett

[gtphantom]

hey heath,

i have a 100 series v8. it tows a hh 600r breeze 2. something tonne and tows it great. i have 4 kids as well. if want comfort and a non agricutural feeling go the v8.the missus will prefer filling it and driving it to. stuff it the v8 is better.
if your moving a 2.5 tonne car and 2 tonne boat you are going to use fuel full stop.
plus you cant beat the sound

cheers

brett

Hey Brett if you make a few small changes to the exhaust and inlet sides of the engine I've found you can get some pretty decent power and economy gains -----
The first thing we did was pull out the standard Toyota muffler and fit a staight thru unit in S/S the exhaust system from the factory is diabolical ! when it came out of warranty we replaced the exhaust manifolds with H-M headers and hi-flow cats upped the pipe sizes to the muffler --from the muffler back the system is good 3" from the factory
put in a K& N hi flow air cleaner and fitted a Hi-Clone into the induction line after the air cleaner --- I reckon between $2500-3000 total cost
We've done this in stages and each time we've noticed considerable gains in economy and power
at the moment towing a 6m GRP cat at about 2500kilo we are getting between 23-26 L/P 100km-----a bit different from the 30-35L/P 100 when we first bought the car not taking into account other factors. and about 12-15 L/P 100km city cycle ,not a great deal if improvement here
the other thing that people aren't aware of is that the engine will use a heap less fuel if the T/C goes to lock-up this means that sometimes it's more economical to hold the tranny in 4th lock-up , rather than 5th without lock up---- as well the mods to the engine up the bottom end torque so your getting more usable power from about 1500rpm , and susequently it will hold a higher gear for longer , in lock up, and improving the economy--- ours will hold 5th lock up down to as low as 2000rpm @ around 85-90kmh
there are heaps of other things that you can try --- we're trying a home made cold air pick-up at the minute it seems to be working only trouble is I'm picking the air up from infront of the radiator ---- no good for any sort of water crossing luckily in the west we don't get to many flash floods and for the most part we don't have to many rivers to cross
hope this is useful to you -- I wish someone had been able to give me a bit of a heads up before I started to modify our car------- Oh yeh ... the noise that the quad cam makes is a real sweet thing........ and doesn't make any difference to the cabin noise levels

cheers

[BenDover]

100 series V8 petrol all the way... 1 drove past me effortlessly when I was raping the turbo diesel to get it to 100 on the onramp. After I finally got it to about 90kph. It breezed past me. Smooooth acceleration, silent and nice rumble after the pipes. The guy had his arm hanging out the window and everything. And here I am using all my lims to try and get the turbo diesel to go.