This whole situation is a bl**dy mess!!!! I think it is time to start looking at that 30' diesel express I want!
This whole situation is a bl**dy mess!!!! I think it is time to start looking at that 30' diesel express I want!
If you can access a ramp with hardstanding and a a large ramp trailer tractor/ boat lift then having a 30-35 foot heavy wide beam boat can be wonderful as the maintainance is easy and access is good rather than having it moored. Moored boats are a pain and marinas are expensive. Up to 25foot probably not worth it but jump that 10 foot and you get lots of acomodation space and different boat designs which are good for the family and still very fishable. At that size you can have a decent davit and tender as you don't go bumping them up on the beach.
It really is a different ball game and the expenses once you own it start going up very fast.
Lots of pros and cons and not as simple as launching a tinny in 5 minutes and hosing it out at the end of the day. Really need to add up how much use you will get from each different style of boat. We have had moored boats and it is a lot more work and I would never own one that isn't shaft drive if stored in the water or outboards if you carry flush water and they completely tilt from the water.
I do have one local and that is why I am thinking of swinging the other way and looking at the diesel express instead of all the towing hassles!Originally Posted by cormorant
As an example I have looked at a clean 1982 Bertram 35 with twin 3208 300hp Cats for 79k. These sorts of prices are just unreal!
thanks for the info - do you think a chain bolted on each side with 1/2" bolts would comply if the nuts were welded to the bolt after tightening, like Dicko suggested?
Otherwise would hammer-pins through holes drilled in the alloy be sufficient? I am thinking the one inch bolt through both sides might be the go at the moment but trying to think of other options - trying to avoid having to get alloy welded if possible.
The chain must not be able to be unbolted under ADR, any method that satisfies that should be OK.
I have gal dtaw bar on my ally trailer ( most ally trailers do), I didn't want to weld on it so I put a 3/4" bolt right through and I welded the chains to that.
I wouldn't like to weld the alloy draw bar or the crossmembers . Years ago they use to weld ally trailers in USA and they found out the break, this is why they don't now .
The thing with safety chains is that they must be " permanently attached" in heavy vehicle trailers they use hammer lock couplings.
bolting thru the drawbar probably isnt the big issue.....getting a proper fix that does not put the chain in a weak position... like bolting thru a chain will..... would be an issue.
just bolting thru chain would not be viewed well......the two probable modes of failure is ripping the head off the bolt, or opening the chain link such that it pulls over the head of the bolt.... due to the leverage.
any fixing has to be a closed loop of some sort and present a direct unfouled pull on the chain at all possible positions.
its hard to get arround some sort of welding and satisfy the requirements.
getting aloy welded realy isn't a big problem....
the best option would be to have fixing tabs attached via welding or bolting thru then fix to those tabs......
there are issues with fitting a steel safety chain to an aluminium drawbar, thet the standard and specs realy dont address.
cheers
Its the details, those little details, that make the difference.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote