I am looking at the Lowrance range of HDS sounders. What is the diffrence between the 2 transponders 83/200 of 50/200?
I usually fish in Bass Strait near where the Spirits of Tasmania sail into Tassie. They say the average depth of the Strait is 60M or 200 feet. So which transducer will suit me better.??
I would go a 50/200.
I have a hds 7 and I have the 83/200, but thats becuase I don't fish super deep.
Might be a good idea to call lowrance and tell them what you intend to fish fand they can best advise, but my guess would be 50/200.
Cheers
Lee
http://www.lowrance.com.au/en-au/Sup...nsducer-Guide/
To select the transducer that's best suited to your needs, you need to consider the transducer's operating frequency, cone angle and type of installation.
Most of the sonar units that we sell accessories for operate at 200 kHz (kilohertz). Some are dual-frequency capable, meaning they can use both 50 and 200 kHz transducers. And a few new models are dual-search capable, allowing for both 83 and 200 kHz operation. Typically, high frequency (200 or 192 kHz) sonar units provide the best resolution and definition of structure and targets. They excel at showing minute details of the underwater world. 50 and 83 kHz frequencies have much greater depth penetration capability, but show less definition.
You must match the transducer's frequency to the sonar unit. For example, a 200 kHz sonar unit requires a 200 kHz transducer.
Cone Angle
A transducer's cone angle determines its coverage area of the underwater world. The wider the cone angle, the greater the area that's covered. We offer a variety of 200 kHz transducers with either a wide (20°) or narrow (12°) cone angle. The 50 kHz transducers come with a 35° cone angle. The dual-frequency transducers come with both a narrow (12°) 200 kHz and a wide (35°) 50 kHz cone angles. And the dual-search transducers come with both a narrow (12°) 200 kHz and a wide (35°) 83 kHz cone angles.
Generally, use a wide cone angle for fishing shallow to medium depths. The narrow cone penetrates to deeper depths, but shows less fish and structure due to its narrow beam.
The depth capability of your sonar units depends on its transmitter power, receiver, sensitivity, frequency, transducer and transducer installation. Other things that effect depth capability are: water conditions and type(all sonars will show deeper depth readings in fresh water than salt) and bottom conditions.
Types of Transducer Installations
Most of our permanent-mount transducers are designed for high-speed operations. For the best results, the transducer should be placed where a smooth, undisturbed flow of water will pass across the face of the transducer at all boat speeds. Read your transducer's owner's manual before installing the transducer!
<< Transom Mount
The transom-mount transducer is the most popular, and it's generally the easiest to install. The SkimmerŽ transducer design performs best when it is slightly below the boat's hull. A plastic transducer is recommended on aluminum or steel-hulled boats to avoid potential electrolysis problems.
Mounting the transducer on the transom is recommended for outboard and stern-drive (I/O) powered boats only. Transom mounting is ideal for high-speed operation and models with the "kick-up" feature will prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object.
Make certain that the chosen location doesn't interfere with the boat's trailer. DO NOT mount the transducer directly behind the ribs, or thru-hull fittings. Typically, on aluminum boats, mounting the transducer between two ribs works best. On all hulls, mount the transducer at least one foot away from the engine's lower unit. This helps to prevent air bubbles from the transducer interfering with the propeller.
Periodically wash the bottom of the transducer with soap and water to remove any oil film or growth that may collect. Oil and dirt reduce the transducer's sensitivity and can even prevent its operation.
<< Shoot-Thru-Hull Mount
In this installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside of the hull with epoxy. Ideally, the transducer is placed in the aft third of the hull close to the centerline. The signal "shoots through" the hull with some loss of signal strength. This installation must be made in an area of the hull that is made from solid fiberglass, with no air bubbles or separated layers. If the hull is of multi-layer or "sandwich" construction, you will have to remove the inner layer of fiberglass and the wood or foam core to expose the outer layer of the hull. This type of mount is recommended only with 192 or 200 kHz transducers.
<< Bolt-Thru-Hull Mount
In this type of installation, a hole is cut in the hull and the transducer is mounted through the hull by means of a threaded shaft and nut. If the boat hull has a dead rise higher than 10 degrees, fairing blocks made from wood or plastic must be fabricated so that the transducer will mount in a completely vertical position. The TH-FLW P5 model does not require a fairing block.
On in-boards, the transducer must be installed ahead of the propeller, shaft(s), and engine water intake(s).
If the boat's hull is made of steel or aluminum, use a plastic transducer to prevent electrolysis problems.
<< Trolling Motor Mount
The PD-W "pod" transducer is designed for mounting on an electric trolling motor. It has two slots for a hose clamp (which must be purchased separately). SkimmerŽ transducers can also be mounted on a trolling motor using the TMB-S trolling motor bracket. It's curved to fit the contour of most electric trolling motors.
Thi is from Cabela' sales promotion.
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Selecting the right transducer: 83/200 kHz transducer in shallow water less than 900 ft.
50/200 kHz transducer in deep water greater than 900 ft.
As the average depth of Bass Strait is 60M then it looks like the 83/200 is go
I just bought a HDS-7 system on Saturday and installed it, and while I was deciding on the unit I asked about the transducer set-up. As I usually fish waters upto 40m I thought I would need the 83/200 set-up, but the assistant advised that the 50/200 also has the 83 built in as well, so it's like a tri-ducer.
He also said that even though I may not be in deep water, the 50 is useful at recording how thick the bottom is, eg. may be coming from sand bottom over flat coffee rock and on the 200 not alot of difference in depth, whereas the 50 would change dramatically in floor depth. This made sense to me, and I went the 50/200.
To me it makes sense to go the 50/200 as it also has the 83 built into the 200, so it's the bonus of having the 50.
Mate, Thanks a lot for that it is great information and sounds like the salesman knew his product. I have been wondering why the 200/50 costs more than the 200/83. Can you tell us how you change or select from 83 to50 please.
Changing the tranducer frequency is done from the sonar menu, simply choose frequency, and select either 50, 83 or 200. I've only had mine a few days, but did this on first test run no worries.
You can also split screen in sonar view and run one side at 200, and beside at 50, etc.
I also wondered why the 50/200 was dearer. SO now I will go the 50/200
Thanks Hazza , You are a legend.Originally Posted by hazza80
Great info and thanx for taking the time to help out. More info here than in the local shop.
I have the hds 10gen2 and the 50 200khz transducer but I can't bring up the 83khz choice. Why is this?
Chsmith told me to choose unknown in the transducer installation. Worked a treat.
Did this ever do any damage to your 200khz element in the long run johndeere, hazza80, Sagair or Pirate_Pete_Tas ??
How did it work for you?
Still happy with it?
To ut it simply, the 50/200 is a far better transducer for any depth range than those 83/200's within its 600w ability. I retrofitted one (HST-DFSBL) to my Elite-7 CHIRP, vast difference in performance once past 25 metres. Did one for a mate on his as well, very happy. And you can usually pick them up cheap s/hand, unused--people just go ahead and buy a P66 to use in their place, without trying them. I don't think a P66 is any better in real world use.
Ranmar...
Have you tried setting it to 'unknown' and running it in 83khz to pick up bait schools etc as described in the other post I put back up? Glad to hear you are happy with it as I got mine for $110 second hand to replace my broken P66 cable/Tranny and was just told the other day by a Simrad guy at the Brissy boat show I'd be better off with the standard 83/200 one in under 100 metres. He was very concerned about the lack of 'beam width' when set on 200 khz in water under 80 meters as he said its way too small to see any schools etc. Ps. My P66 was very good as I could mark schools and the bottom at speed. Was very happy with it.
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