Computer fan in fridge.

[PinHead]

stick to your electrics oldboot..your knowledge of refrigeration is obviously very limited.

[FNQCairns]

Hi Oldboot yup that is me problem just getting the Beer cold.

And trying to get these stupid Dometic 3 way fridges a little more efficiant. I was starting to think it was just my imagination that they don't cool very fast! but at least you have confirmed my thoughts on that.

There Useless for the first half day after a fresh stock of anything! can't beleive there so exspensive and theres nothing in them. Geez a 6 dollar fan might just make it better and even a bloody light inside wouldn't hurt either.

Maybe even a LED to let you know that 12 volt is being used or 240 Etc.

Just going to have to do that meself I guess.

Cheers

Certainly not your imagination, my one which is only 40L but identical in practice, a trick worthy of keeping up is to add 15% or so of the available volume as water in bottles, once these drop down to the working temperature of the fridge (2deg c?) and new items are added like your beer they will speed up the chilling.

cheers fnq

[foxx510]

I would stick to the rated voltage of the fan. The rating is there for a reason. Whether it be longevity, heat buildup, air flow rates or what-ever.
You don't want the fan to fail (if it works) on a really hot summers day when you've just placed another 6 pack in.
The $6 on the initial purchase of the correct fan would seem stupid if the fan fails when it's most needed. Especially seeing that you, most probably, would not be close to a computer shop when/if it fails.

I can assure you it's fine to run the fan at a lower voltage. It's commonly done. So long as the fan starts up ok every time then there isn't a problem. In fact, some "silent" computer fans are simply higher voltage fans that run slower on their newly rated voltage.

[finga]

I can assure you it's fine to run the fan at a lower voltage. It's commonly done. So long as the fan starts up ok every time then there isn't a problem. In fact, some "silent" computer fans are simply higher voltage fans that run slower on their newly rated voltage.

I'll stick to the rated voltages ta.

[foxx510]

I'll stick to the rated voltages ta.

Think of it more as a nominal voltage, they are designed to work outside this voltage, within reason of course. It's like any other dc motor that has a safe range of operation. I'd argue that cooling beer a bit quicker isn't a mission critical application either, but some may disagree

[Roughasguts]

Ah, the fridge is in a van...the plot thickens.
Chuck a thermometer in the space at the back of the fridge.
If there is not enough air circulation the fridge will not work efficiently.
The flue needs a good flow of cool clean air over it.
They are sometimes called heat exchange units for good reason.
Take particular attention of where the top vent is. This needs to be above the height of the flue, the bottom vent needs to be lower then the heat source and the size of the vents is important.
I sometimes put computer fans in the void to assist air circulation which improves recovery rates of the fridge.

I would stick to the rated voltage of the fan. The rating is there for a reason. Whether it be longevity, heat buildup, air flow rates or what-ever.
You don't want the fan to fail (if it works) on a really hot summers day when you've just placed another 6 pack in.
The $6 on the initial purchase of the correct fan would seem stupid if the fan fails when it's most needed. Especially seeing that you, most probably, would not be close to a computer shop when/if it fails.

PS an efficient ammonia fridge will cool only fractionally slower or just as fast as a compressor type IMO.
They both work pretty well on the same principle.

As a side note...wind chill will not work on stubbies or cans of beer usless they are wet.
Wind chill is just an extension of sweating (but at a lower temperature)...same principle, same result. Things that have moisture getting sucked out (or pumped out as in sweating) and removed cools down. That's why good been hit with the blast freezing have smaller ice crystals. The moisture was sucked out before it could freeze in big blobs in the flesh.
Wind chill needs moisture to become wind chill and fairly strong winds. Stronger winds then a computer fan could pump out IMO
Here's a good link to work out wind chill
http://www.csgnetwork.com/windchillcalc.html
Google is good

Thanks finga, now I was just wondering that driving home this morning at 05:30 Am, about sticking the kids wet socks on all me beers before chucking them in the fridge!
Think that might cover the wind chill idea along with the fan blowing on them.

Cheers.

[Roughasguts]

Certainly not your imagination, my one which is only 40L but identical in practice, a trick worthy of keeping up is to add 15% or so of the available volume as water in bottles, once these drop down to the working temperature of the fridge (2deg c?) and new items are added like your beer they will speed up the chilling.

cheers fnq

Thanks FNQ, yup already do that one and have the frozen bottles in the fridge before setting of on the road.

That idea sure does help.

Cheers.

[Roughasguts]

Think of it more as a nominal voltage, they are designed to work outside this voltage, within reason of course. It's like any other dc motor that has a safe range of operation. I'd argue that cooling beer a bit quicker isn't a mission critical application either, but some may disagree

Nah the Beer isn't that critical to keep cold! theres always the esky, it's also the 3 kids opening the fridge and letting the cold air out all day long.

Cheers.

[Roughasguts]

Thanks for all your help fella's I'm off to have a shower and wake up.
Then sit in the Windsor Rapid and drink Beer with me head in the fridge.

Cheers.

[Roughasguts]

Okay nothing goes to plan as usual, Had shower nursed baby that just had shots, then mowed lawns, and washed two of the three cars and found a small rust hole in the Pajero's roof. (Got to fix that) Then got to the fridge! this here little fan 24 volt now running on a 12 volt battery will blow out a candle at 8 inches! I guess that"s not bad.

I can't use dry wall plugs to hold it in the fins of the condensor but can use 13 mm rubber mat left over pieces, to jam in the fins.

So now I'm thinking the Fan may as well be hooked up via a switch to the house batteries, via LED, and use the small 12 v 7.5 Amp battery freebies for the boat sounders and stuff as originally intended.

Strange how plans always change before you even start working on something.