If you hurry up you may even be able to Christen it with a blue as there are still the odd one around out wide..... looks unreal mate very nice job.....
If you hurry up you may even be able to Christen it with a blue as there are still the odd one around out wide..... looks unreal mate very nice job.....
Cheers
Matty
yes i know ,george from reelax is one of my crew for next season ,he has been keeping me up to date,would love to christen it with a blue[my dream]
cheers for the comments lads,the boat will be kept at the gold coast city marina fork lift facility so if your down there keep a look out,should be easy to spot.cheers dave
lencos have plastic pin and pivot point so they break if you hit bottom with the tabs down which i assume you have broken in a sea which must take some effort as i have only broken in shallow water. i have bashed every bolt and screw in the patriot and still haven't bent a tab which brings me to ask the question i hope you are not taking any hull strength by bonding the outer to the inner like a lot of american boats do . while they initially make a hull stronger in the long term in australian waters they pound a lot harder than american seas and tend to develop soft spots in the long term, great hull and many still running around up here , quite a few have extended the arse to 26 feet which makes a far better boat.
edencraft are australian made ,all built too survey standard layup,from the holes ive drilled in my hull ,the hull is 20mm thick and the deck is 15mm thick,everything is hand layed glassed no bonding,no internal moulds.this boat is total over kill in construction,i seriously doubt il be able to put a stress crack in it.but thanks for your concern.
first pic is the 20mm hull ,second pic is actually 30mm deck they added extra galss for the cleat ,third pic is more boat porn,fourth shows engine hight from the boat,fith tie bar installed ,the tie bar is for setting engine toe,im starting at 10mm,just a note ,if your installing twin mercs like this you have to use a merc tie bar ,both types of sea star tie bars wont fit.
just waiting on the trimmer to make the all over cover now and she is ready ,just a little tidying up to do.
opti,
your boat looks awsame.
when it does look this good inside the shed, i can just imagine what will it look once it hits the water.
are you going to putt something inside the anchor bow roller so that stainless does not get schretched and bashed? that is how it is on my anchor.
mine is just terrible comparing to yours
i havnt really thought about the anchor to be honest,il proably just wait and see how it goes,the bollard was custom made and holds the anchor very snug,the anchor just stayed on the rollers when i tested it in the shed,il keep an eye on it,cheers dave
Mate WOW you have raised the bar to new level great attention to detail youve obviously thouhgt this one out .You wont have to wait around with those optis they are very highly underated and sound cool . I hope you enjoy it on the water as much as the build its a credit to ya
just a side note,i had to make new battery cables as my batteries are in the cabin and the ones supplied with the engines were way too short,so i had already run 2b&s size cables down to the back ready to cut to length to the engine connections.
two forum members spaniard king and finga put me on to some new products that made my life so much easier.
the first was the hydraulic crimping tool spaniard king put me onto ,best 80 bucks i spent gary thanks heaps for that.
the other was a electric solder pot that finga put me on to ,came from china for 25 bucks ,its a ripper,and perfect for doing battery cables.
a couple of pics of the process.
first pic the crimping tool in action
second pic the electric solder pot,obviously i couldnt photograph me dipping the lug into the solder ,but thats the next step.
third pic ,the finished artical,with heat shrink applied.
fourth pic ,on the engine better than factory.thats how to do battery cables
Beeeewdiful. Tx for keep putting the pics up. Extreme boat porn for some of us, your work is legendary. What's really great is your forward planning.
Two little questions. I'm the practical type...have you tried climbing over your new transom from inside to access the props or take a cowling off ? Handy to have somewhere safe/practical to plonk a size 10 or a small rail to hang onto so you can lean out and have a gander. I think places like Dana marine do small billet ones that might even match those sweet trim tabs. I;d be thinking about sitting on that teak with feet over the back into the motor well too. Looks like a nice place to park your bum whilst out there. Maybe there's room for your boot on the transom cap next to the donks i dunno.
Just fantastic work on the motor bolts and mounting...whats the material you mounted through ?
Keep em coming when u get time, cant wait to see some pics of launch day. Stunning work.
cheers deckie,i actually had to sit on the teak to fit the rigging to the port engine,plenty of room in the well for my feet ,cowls off would be easy ,prop change from the boat would be pretty hard ,might have to get wet for that one.il wait and see about a handle ,[easy to add later]untill my bait board is mounted with snapper racks etc,i actually have a spare gold handle ,there is one on the dash on the passanger side,at least you can stand on those dana tabs if need be.
the transom plates are 10mm aluminium and i had them anodised to stop corrosion and look good,i think a better option than powder coating for the same cost.
Hi opti. Who on the coast did you anodizing.. Great idea that transom plate. Think I'll make one for the seafarer.
Opti please I am begging you, delete this thread and never mention it again.
It makes me sick to my stomach with jealousy when I see what you are doing
BOAT really does mean Bring out Another Thousand