PHP Warning: Use of undefined constant VBA_SCRIPT - assumed 'VBA_SCRIPT' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in ..../includes/functions_navigation.php(802) : eval()'d code on line 1 Haines Hunter 16r how do I check for rot?
Just brought a HH 16r mid 80s that done less than 200hrs since new (checked with their mechanic and mine) ...always been kept undercover and looks it.
Wondering how do I check for any rot in the stringers as there is no access. The transom and floor seem fine . What is the best method for checking these?
I've been reading some previous threads and have been impressed with the quality of comments on this forum.
If the floor is good, chances are the stringers etc will be fine, as the floor is usually the first indication, don't worry about it.
Transom, see if there is any flex when you lean on the motor and give it a tap with the head of a driver, you will notice a sound difference if it's wet / rotten.
Gidday JJ have a look at the bilge and see if the bung is screwed in to the under floor compartment area, should be one in the floor well up front too, if they are not in or missing the left over water from hosing out can enter the void under the floor and cause rot,as it gets mighty humid in that space which the little spores that cause all the damge just love.But if always garaged and tilted back so all watewr drains away then in with half a chance.Always a gamble with older boats.The only way to know for sure is get the jigsaw out and cut in a inspection port or two and have a capt cook.JIM
I think it depends too on how well the boat is built. I had a 1972 V16C/163 up to 2003 or so and the transom in that (original) was like concrete. The floor however was a different story - I bought it knowing that because it was a little soft in part to stand on. Pulled it up and had it professionally rebuilt by Holloways. He and I were both dismayed at the lack of build quality in the floor - it was very thin ply with only one layer of glass on the outside and no glass on the underside. All boats form condensation in the floor - so if there is only glass to be exposed to condensation then there can be no rot ordinarily. I had the 12mm sheet heavily glassed on both sides (and new stringers that were rotten out) and then sold it!
My Vagabond has a very small area of delamination (from the alloy trimming on the top of the transom coming away slightly) and the rest including the floor is like concrete literally. I followed his recommendation to stop it progressing - I dug out from the top and stuck so much epidure down there its crazy to kill off the spores and add structure and seal it, then pumped in marine sika and followed with the alloy strip - all sealed up.The old salty surveyor who inspected it for me noted however that he had seen badly maintained Vagabonds, Vikings etc from that era that had literally no wood left in the transom or stringers and regularly took to heavy seas without problems because the amount of glass in them was so strong. I contacted Lyndsay Fry at Seafarar who confirmed that. He said that the glass in the transoms of those early Vags was 10mm solid on the outside on top of the wood in addition to the more modest glass on the inside of the transom and they were also convex so the strenght was immense - where the motor sits - on the outer areas of the trasom there is no wood at all, just solid glass at about 8mm - You can see the amount of solid glass when you cut through the transom to install the trim tabs in these....the dash is similar at 10mm solid glass and the prow where I stuck in the windlass is 20mm thick glass and wood....so its boat dependent.
One thing that you can do though is swing off the motor at full tilt - with it tilted have a heavy mate haul back and forth on the end of the leg (careful of the prop!) and line up the transom...any perceptable flex at all move on...otherwise you might reckon its fine unless way overpowered.
Thanks for those replies fellas. I'll post a pic as soon as I learn how to. Some good information for anyone wanting to buy an older glass boat. I've been visiting a few forums but this is the best for informed and concerned advice, unless I'm buying an etec that is.
One thing about the rot and future maintaince is that there are two types of rot,dry and wet. The dry rot can be kept at bay by having air circulating. Thats why we have vents under timber houses. So I guess its best to keep the underfloor bungs out and any inspection hatches open.
The second is wet rot which likes constant moisture of over 15% to have its fun which suggests having the bungs in at all times to keep the moisture out, although there is always condensation. This also suggests leaving the bungs out too I suppose.
Haines Signature "FinaLeigh" 580F 135 Optimax
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