Anchor got stuck!!!!!!

[Noelm]

most lost anchors are the result of the chain being caught, unless a sand anchor has been used on reef, then you can be in deep poo, going back to what has been said here with Kinetic Energy and stuff like that, it would seem that if you had full chain then if you tied off to the stern then it would be safe!! wrong!! one of the dramas involved is the fact that you have (say) 40 metres of rope out, with tension, now a swell arrives, and you now have 45 metres between you and your anchor point, and only 40 metres of rope, something has to give, and it is the boat going backwards towards the anchor, yanking you under water in the process, I am sure rope strech and stored energy may play a part as well, but not as much as waves and rope length does.

[finga]

Looks like I'll just continue drifting.
To much hassle and too many things to think about when your anchoring it seems

[Noelm]

nah, just chuck it out and forget all the "science"

[stinky-stabi]

im with Finga the zip tie method is the best for my use , the only problem i had was convincing myself to use the smallest possible zip tie as the larger ones caused me some pain an tension over the years .lololol. would take some power and pulling to break them ,, now i use one 2.5mm by 100mm an find them sufficient ...heres a photo of my anchor mooloolaba reef anchor home made and work a treat 750mm long and hooked to 6m of 12mm chain with large float n the size zip tie .....DSC00179.jpg

[finding_time]

Isn't a smaller reef pick the answer here? Or don't they work up north ;-) We've just sized the reef pick to match our boat, and worst case is that we'll have to pull it real hard under power and take a small arc around it until one of the prongs bends out. You then just bend it back ready for next time.

To back up what Noel said, it's that chain that's the problem on many of the stuck anchors i've dived for . It's amazing how it can be dragged into a crack and wedge in!

ian

[gunna]

If you don't have a ball - what do you guys think about tying off to the bow cleat and reversing off.

[seatime]

The 'science' in this case is understanding the forces involved and how the boats stability is effected when they're pushed and shoved around, and it's still connected to the bottom...

Lifting anchors using a retrieval buoy requires a degree of skill which is gained thru practice. I'd recommend practicing in shallower water first where the mechanics of the technique can be viewed more easily and safely.


Freeing fouled anchors is a potentially dangerous practice. A quick risk assessment is made and a plan developed.

If deciding to drive-it-off (tied off on bow):
Your choice to remove any buoys; they may create unnecessary drag and decrease load on the rope.
Let out more anchor line, perhaps 50-100% more, depending on depth (increasing the angle at the bow will assist stability).
Drive away at angles, and over the lay of the anchor (avoiding rope).
If tripping the anchor you're better to be going against the lay on a reciprocal heading; prop clear of rope of course.
Driving in an arc helps keep the rope visible beside the boat and away from the prop.
If your unable/unwilling to free the anchor; buoy it off for later. A "Securite" (VHF 16) could be broadcast as a navigation hazard. You might even have your anchor & rode returned if your details are on the buoy.

[Jeremy]

If you don't have a ball - what do you guys think about tying off to the bow cleat and reversing off.

Gunna, before I made up a retrieval float, I still used the boat to free my anchor when stuck fast in the reef. What I did was to shorten the rope as much as possible, retie off the bow cleat, and drive off - forwards - slowly using the weight and momentum of the boat and force of the swell to bend the prong out. Never failed for me.

I don't see any advantage in reversing over going forwards. Skipper just has to have either a visual or 'feel' for where the rope is so you don't cut it.

Jeremy