Wheel Bearings?????

[trymyluck]

Hi All
Just been watching the fishing australia magazine dvd. They had a segment on checking wheel bearings and couldn't believe what I was seeing and hearing.
They pulled the hub off, removed the seal and bearing races and then stated that if the grease is a milky color then you have had water in the grease and you may need to replace the cones In other words if the cones are not damaged just replace the races. Sending the wrong message.

No wonder we see so many trailers pulled up with a bearing gone. IMO there is no excuse for not changing the cones when you change bearings, they come with new bearing cones and are a matched set, never mix them up. Yes they probably are the same but you would get small differences in different batches.

Mark

[garman1]

I agree, always replace cones when doing bearings....just standard practice I thought.

Not replacing bearings and cones is simply inviting problems............

[ozscott]

I did one of 4 wheels recently on my trailer. Its lazy to replace the race only and not the cone - it takes some elbow grease and takes longer but well worth it.

[FNQCairns]

Hi All
Just been watching the fishing australia magazine dvd. They had a segment on checking wheel bearings and couldn't believe what I was seeing and hearing.
They pulled the hub off, removed the seal and bearing races and then stated that if the grease is a milky color then you have had water in the grease and you may need to replace the cones In other words if the cones are not damaged just replace the races. Sending the wrong message.

No wonder we see so many trailers pulled up with a bearing gone. IMO there is no excuse for not changing the cones when you change bearings, they come with new bearing cones and are a matched set, never mix them up. Yes they probably are the same but you would get small differences in different batches.

Mark

Do you mean they are a machined batch? I dunno for sure but doubt they machine each cone to suit each individual cup...come to think of it the differences within each batche would relate to how often the machinery is recalibrated.

I wonder for our purposes (slow speed, low weight) if it does matter much at all, within 1000km the bearing cup would have worn in enough to conform the still within spec cone?

Just kicking around the idea that if it's a quality brand and the bearing is fitted spotlessly clean does it really matter if the cup and cone came from the same packet.

I fitted a set of ford bearings today to hubs that had the cones pre fitted and the bearings loose in bags, I baulked at the idea first up then quickly thought it probably doesn't even matter or at least matter much to bearings cleanly fitted.

just a thought

cheers fnq

[trymyluck]

Do you mean they are a machined batch? I dunno for sure but doubt they machine each cone to suit each individual cup...come to think of it the differences within each batche would relate to how often the machinery is recalibrated.

I wonder for our purposes (slow speed, low weight) if it does matter much at all, within 1000km the bearing cup would have worn in enough to conform the still within spec cone?

Just kicking around the idea that if it's a quality brand and the bearing is fitted spotlessly clean does it really matter if the cup and cone came from the same packet.

I fitted a set of ford bearings today to hubs that had the cones pre fitted and the bearings loose in bags, I baulked at the idea first up then quickly thought it probably doesn't even matter or at least matter much to bearings cleanly fitted.

just a thought

cheers fnq

When new it probably dosn't matter on that size bearings, but on old bearings any marks on cones would impart those onto the new races and what about differant brands, maybe some differance there. I just don't think that its a good idea as its going to be the newby that will get caught as he dosn't know any better. As Garman1 said just standard practice. Not hard to do.

It seemed to be a yamaha service guy was doing the instructing or at least it was sponsored by yamaha.

[NAGG]

Interesting ..... I must be a lazy bugger (sort of)
I do a hell of a lot of towing (30K in months) ...... & these day replace the races before each major trip ( twice yearly) .. However I only change cups yearly.... . This is probably on par with the frequency that most boaties change theirs.
To date , I'm yet to see a pitted or worn cup ...... & the grease always looks A1

I think the key to it is .... using bearing buddies ( adding the same type of grease during a long trip) & use quality bearings.
The big advantage of changing the cups regularly is that it is easier to knock the old ones out

As for batched matched bearings & races ....... I doubt it very much considering that mostly the actual manufacturer of the cup differs from races. Trailer manufacturers buy the bearings , seals & races loose ( not in kit form) ......

In the end though ....... Yearly changes are a must

Chris

[wags on the water]

As for batched matched bearings & races ....... I doubt it very much considering that mostly the actual manufacturer of the cup differs from races. Trailer manufacturers buy the bearings , seals & races loose ( not in kit form) ......

Chris

Are you for real??? Are you saying that you can go and buy just the outer race (cone) ? In the industry I work in, if a bearing has to be replaced, you replace the lot.

[NAGG]

Are you for real??? Are you saying that you can go and buy just the outer race (cone) ? In the industry I work in, if a bearing has to be replaced, you replace the lot.

If you go to specialist caravan & trailer places ( Camec etc) Yes - I have just bought just the cone . ( the whole lot ... seals , races & cones where separate ) you could also buy ARK , TIMKEN kits too .
Strangely ...... my previous boat trailer used different inners & outers (hybrid) ....... so kits were useless

Chris

[SunnyCoastMark]

Replacing the cups sounds like a great idea in theory. However when you look at it realistically, most people do not have a press nor even a dolly that has been machinedto the correct diameter to knock out the cups.

So inevitably they use a screwdriver or nail puch - working from side to side.

The end result is that they often shave the walls of the hub, or gouge it out. They are only cast (soft enough to be able to do that). So you end up with a hub that is more likely to fail than if you had just left the cups in.

So, my recommendation is - if you don't know what you are doing and don't have the right tools, either take it in to a workshop to have the cups replaced or inspect the cones. - If they have no pitting, scoring cracking and are not rounded where the rollers run - leave them in.

If you are not confident in checking the cups - the go back to plan A - take it in to a workshop.

Mark

[ozscott]

I dont replace the bearings anything like yearly. I have a dual axle trailer and run bearing buddies and always grease them after every trip with a few pumps into each....and in the end they last for years that way even dunking like i do.

Cheers

PS. Timkin is the only way to fly

[Roughasguts]

Replacing the cups sounds like a great idea in theory. However when you look at it realistically, most people do not have a press nor even a dolly that has been machinedto the correct diameter to knock out the cups.

So inevitably they use a screwdriver or nail puch - working from side to side.

The end result is that they often shave the walls of the hub, or gouge it out. They are only cast (soft enough to be able to do that). So you end up with a hub that is more likely to fail than if you had just left the cups in.

So, my recommendation is - if you don't know what you are doing and don't have the right tools, either take it in to a workshop to have the cups replaced or inspect the cones. - If they have no pitting, scoring cracking and are not rounded where the rollers run - leave them in.

If you are not confident in checking the cups - the go back to plan A - take it in to a workshop.

Mark

Or you can buy a whole new Gal hub! includes bearings, cups, seals, wheel studs and nuts, includes split pin all for 39 bucks.
From super cheap and I would also recomend the bearing buddies, mine are now going 7 years and no rumbling or tight spots in the bearings.

[akman1]

In my experience from bikes to earthmoving equipment a bearing whether it be roller,tapered,needle etc will wear on the smallest surface first.eg:inner cone of a
wheel bearing(a good look between the rollers) not the outer which is easy to see,the bigger the bearing the easier to notice.
That still doesnt excuse replacing both at the same time for another 5mins work per hub,for trailer bearings the proper dolley is only about $15 from memory although you still need to knock the old ones out if you dont have access to a press.
I'd just rather piece of mind and also use marine seals with bearing buddies.