Blew hazard/indicator lights fuse in tow car couple of weeks ago while trailer was hooked up...found this under what was left of leccy tape(trailers only 6months old)...is this fixable, or am I better replacing the entire cable?
Mick
Blew hazard/indicator lights fuse in tow car couple of weeks ago while trailer was hooked up...found this under what was left of leccy tape(trailers only 6months old)...is this fixable, or am I better replacing the entire cable?
Mick
if there is slack in he cable, you could fix it....so annoying that with a bit of hose over the leads the problem your having would not have came about.
probably a buck to fix when the trailer was made but a pain the rear to fix now
Cheers Garry
A bad day fishing, beats a good day at work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you dont need to pay too much frank. just 1 metre of cable and 2 gel filled marine crimps(joiners) will do the job. cheers
I reckon it's fixable. At least it's at the "dry end" of the trailer. But I'd be replacing the entire cable. Depends on whether you want a band-aid job or a reliable job. And from my recent experience, you don't know what lies hidden inside the trailer beams. It doesn't look like they've used proper marine tinned cable, just the usual cheap stuff.
I recently replaced all the wiring on my two year old trailer after having fuse problems. After removing the previous wiring (I would hardly call it old) I found a melted mass of crap that used to be a junction where the clearance lights were joined into the main cable. The cable had corroded and shorted, melting the junction and surrounding electrical tape. Don't the manufacturers of boat trailers realize that these trailers actually get dunked in salt water from time to time?
I ended up getting proper tinned marine trailer cable. I got a full reel as that was the only way I could buy it. Send me a PM if you're interested in some. I've got heaps left over. I can now be confident that I have done the job to my satisfaction, and don't expect to have any more problems with corrosion or abrasion.
A fun job for a winter's afternoon?
Cheers
Um yeh, it could be fixed by a variety of methods......I have repaired worse...... but i agree you are better off replacing the whole lot.
I do not think I have ever seen a "New trailer" I didn't want to rewire.
Unfortunately trailer multicore does not come in a tinned version.( that I am aware of.
The problem you have there is that the cables were not properly secured or protected. pretty much typical.
My old box trailer I wired over 25 years ago has garden hose from the drawbar to the plug....it is only now looking a bit sad.
cheers
Its the details, those little details, that make the difference.
I would look at pulling it back down to the lights and repairing it.... if you soldier all of the joins and thenheat srink them wih he glue filled heat srink you should never have any more problems with it... then get some hose or split conduit and heat srink it in place too....
$10 fix and no problems....
If it was down the "wet end" of the trailer I would think twice though...
The other thing to help you decide would be what type of taillights are on the trailer.... if they are water proof LED then the cable isnot replaceable at the light end anyway...
Good job to fill in 1/2 hour with a cold one
we use a 7 core tinned wire for comerical chemical dispensers. it is rated to 240 volts. and is the same size as trailer wire.
i used it on my trailer and my brother inlaws. works great no corrision. as for the glue heat shrink you can get it from most electrical suppliers. a bit dearer than the normal stuff but a lot better.
i love the garden hose idear for protection cheap and would work well.
regards mark
I am sure that tinned 240V multicore cables are arround, but getting it woithout buying a roll might be a bit of a problem.
The 240V stuff woul be better all round quality than the trailer cable too.
But how much $$$$ per meter.
cheers
Its the details, those little details, that make the difference.
Hey Mick - when you fix it up, have the cable come out sideways on the drawbar about say 4 inches or so back from the tow hitch area. That way, the cables as you have them now (coming right through to the end), won't get damaged again. Works well for me so far.
Thanks fellas.
Ended up having a bit more slack than I originally thought...re-joined/heat shrunk, and put some split conduit over it and taped it up....indicators all good, but no stop/light...checked "round->flat trailer->car" converter...corroded/couple of wires broken!...replaced with "flat"(As this is what tow car has), and still no good with stop light...checked car side with multimeter...no voltage on stop/lights....located fuse(blown)...replaced and all good...what a bloody mission!!!
Thanks again for everyones help.
Mick