Davits

[Razgo-]

i found a dial gauge here for $55.00 http://www.carbatec.com.au/measureme...m-dial-caliper

I think thats the type i can use?

or one of these http://www.carbatec.com.au/measureme...dial-indicator

[Chimo]

So Raz if the rhs bolt was not done up tight and neither the bolt nor the casting is broken; based on the pic, it seems to show the LHS and RHS bolts both sitting in a very agricultural looking slots.


If no other major damage has been done and you only need to re-straighten and reposition the box perhaps it could be worth instaling some sort of "small, filler, spacer (small length (s) of rod even?) within the slot but below the bolt to limit downward movement even if the bolt is not super tight.

Shame about the hindsight, probably too late for the OB and maybe un-necessary if this is fixable for not too much $s. Big pain in the a tho.

Cheers
Chimo

[Razgo-]

no it's not the v-drive casing thats the worry. it's the prop shaft behind it. They tend to bend easily when missaligned like that. It's the RHS nut that has slipped down under pressure from the v-drive as they twist as pressure is applied.

So i know it's a loose nut or not tight enough that is the cause.

The gland that the prop shaft goes through may be damaged also and if so may be hard to find one to replace.

It's the cost of lifting in/out and hard stand fees plus the $600.00 shaft where it mounts up.

[Razgo-]

no it's not the v-drive casing thats the worry. it's the prop shaft behind it. They tend to bend easily when misaligned like that. It's the RHS nut that has slipped down under pressure from the v-drive as they twist as pressure is applied.

So i know it's a loose nut or not tight enough that is the cause.

The gland that the prop shaft goes through may be damaged also and if so may be hard to find one to replace.

It's the cost of lifting in/out and hard stand fees plus the $600.00 shaft where it mounts up.

Finga modified that bracket and aligned it once before and it never came loose. So the bracket itself is modified already to allow for adjustment thanks to Finga.

I won't know if damage is extensive until i re align it again. If it vibrates badly that will be the first dad sign.

But my guess is its probably bent like a boomerang given how far up and out that v-drive has moved. lesser movement can tear the shaft to shreds. so its all a question mark at this stage.

[Chimo]

So maybe you need to act like a smart farmer in a drought and make this loss your last and sell off the motor the drive and go the pod and outboard and be done with it.

Cheers
Chimo

[Razgo-]

I have thought about it. not sure what the motor is worth though. its a 250cc 6 cyl ford Fairmont 1973 motor. Runs well no worries there. but still, its an old motor.

Then you factor in getting the thing out which will involve paying for it to get lifted and then i have to get the motor home. its just too much for me sometimes.

i think it might be cheaper to dismantle it on the boat and drop it overboard

Although i have actually seen people change diesel motors in a marina berth

I have a 60HP marina but i don't know if it goes yet. if it does then yeah just need a custom pod made.

I might even get a quote from rivergate marina mob for a custom pod since they are right there. Then save up to get an outboard for it to put on later i guess.

[finga]

Gidday matey,
By the looks the nuts and bolts were not done up and someone has stepped in the box and tilted it a bit.
I reckon it would have just happened as it would have made a hell of a racket if it was like that when she was piloted up.
Can you see if the splined shaft has worked against the blue mounting bracket? There would be marks around the spline.
If there's no marks then I would gamble that the prop shaft would be OK.

Did they put the packers in on the other side?
If you need the dial gauge you can always borrow mine but most of the adjustment can be done with feeler gauges around the perimeter of the two flanges. I think we got the gap around the flanges to be within a few thous.
Chimo...mate, the slots are agricultural. That's the only way we could get adjustment up and down as well as side ways in a fairly restricted space.
Originally the box was over 12-15mm too high and I think it was 8mm to one side and about 10-20 degrees out of square of the line of the prop shaft.
Bloody hell I wished someone would do some work on this boat...and do it properly

[Razgo-]

Hi Scott, i have to say i didn't hear any noise when it docked when it came in from coochie and the fella that brought it around said he didn't her any loud noises as such. I drove it into the berth and didn't hear any loud vibration or grating.

But just seeing it like that makes me think its stuffed. and how the gear oil came out i am not sure yet. maybe back out through the shaft being on such an angle.

Yes thats right i forgot about using feeler gauges.

not sure about the packers, will have to take another look. It truly would be a miracle if that shaft isn't stuffed but i will find out. But yeah i would have thought it would have made a noisy racket too. i have heard it before when the shaft was out of plumb and it sounded like a very loud bandsaw cutting up marbles in a tin drum.

[Razgo-]

Scott, do you think the gland leaking water could be due the way the prop shaft is bent to one side forcing he gland to open a little?

It was like a very fast drip, just short of streaming in water. Once i applied grease via the nipple the leak stopped. so i assume the gland seal is either rooted or is pushed open to ones side if that makes sense?

"if" the gland is buggered i think you can only change that out of water.

[finga]

I'd true it all up and see how it is matey.
No need to panic until it's time too.
Undo the 3 bolts on the flange and see if the leak stops and to see just how far out the alignment is.

[Chimo]

Hi Raz and Finga

Maybe its not time to give up on the Ford yet!

Finga, now that you have explained the major imperfections in the original set up its easier to understand the need for the room to move in the vee drive bracket. What the earlier post was trying to raise was whether there could be benefit in placing spacers within the hole around the outside of the bolt that would limit the movement of the bolt. The spacers would be the thickness of the bracket and would be retained by a washer and then the nut tightened to lock it all in place.

I hope the problem is as you postulated Finga and that "being stood on" after the boat got to the berth was the cause. Time and investigation will tell. Cannot think of a better bushy to sort it out, sounds like it may not be the bridge too far..

Heres hoping......

Cheers
Chimo

[finga]

Mate, I actually thought about making a new mount for it but without the boat in the driveway it would be a pain in the proverbial.
I thought about cutting a hole in the original bracket and making up two sets and 2 concentric washers so they could be spun around until the sweet spot was found and they could be locked by the 2 nuts and bolts...and then I thought about a locking plate on the front which had two or four grub screws in it to tighten against the bracket to lock it all up but that went out the window because the grub screws would seize quickly so I left it alone.
The washers were a pressed washer which have a sharp lip and should bite in a bit and in reality there should not be that much torsion stress there as the prop spins around...not the box.
I mean what holds the gear box on on a 60hp outboard?? About 4-6 8 or 10mm bolts.

Mate, I hope the bridge your talking about isn't the gateway. It's too long and just too damn expensive to cross for me

[Chimo]

Why not go rural and stuff fillers (as described earlier) into the slots once the drive is positioned and then use a washer / plate to hold them all in?

WW2 movie "Bridge Too Far" but I know what you mean about the gateway and the rest of the toll setups. Whats with the tag only system, more unemployed persons!

The "Capt" is never going to employ 100,000. Oh Well, one more lie to take to the next election.

C
C

[Razgo-]

The river gate marine is southside next to gateway bridge. http://maps.google.com.au/maps?f=q&s...4&z=12&iwloc=A

i dont go anywhere near northside anymore. You simply dont know if your going to get back.

I took some feeler gauges down this morning and to be honest i found NO gap at all. these new couplings are tight/flush together.

When i moved the v-drive back a little the water starts pouring in the gland again until i pump more grease in it.

so stuffed if i know. If i use a dial gauge don't you need a reference point to find center before its of any use to even know if the shaft is aligned?

Might see someone at the marina tomorrow if they can take a look.

[Chimo]

Hi Raz

Did you guys scratch some X reference marks when you set it up last time?

If not probably worth while when it goes back together this time. With a bit of luck you may be OK once things are back where they should be given the grease rectified the gland, we hope.

Might even pay to drop a tack weld in too as long as its in a spot you can grind away if you ever need too! (Disconect the battery first tho)

Cheers
Chimo