to pod or not to pod 30' bay cruiser

[finga]

Hi finga, by lowering the drive will that effect the shaft/uni joints? NO it will not!!

what the boss mechanic was telling me was they had to keep going higher.

He also said just as long as the prop shaft aligned correctly the rest doesn't matter as there is flex in the uni joints in the top shaft. That is correct. we need to align the prop shaft. The drive shaft on top can be out of alignment as it has uni-joints

But that kind of contradicts the whole purpose of balance and alignment?

If there is even the slightest amount of stress pushed onto the uni joints even if there is flex there isn't it just a matter of time before wear will occur? No, that's their job. If they work a bit it is better for them.

He kept going on about how that top shaft/uni joints isn't normally there or that type of more and how they had to move the motor to help with the alignment etc...crap. A proper job will always have the uni's

It was like he was winging about having to figure things out or something.

Hi Finga
Have I got this right from the photo's
The bottom shaft has the fixed coupling and that is the prop shaft
The top shaft is the drive with the uni joint
If this is correct , then align the coupling on the box with the coupling on the prop shaft and the drive shaft with the uni joints will look after it's self.
It would seam the original problem with the prop shaft and key wearing will be caused from the alignment problems
Station-rat

Exactly

[Razgo-]

well i guess the mechanic said some things right then.

[39NESP]

Razgo I Have A Mate Who Has A 33 Foot Hartley With A Pod With A 150 Yammy On It He Could Be The Man To Talk To His No Is 0413734834 Just Tell Him Snapper Said To Give Him A Ring
Cheers

[Razgo-]

thanks for that. At the moment i am going to stick with trying to fix the problem as it seems to be able to be fixed with teh right approach. Now if it was a lost cause then i would lean more toward doing the the pod.

But i think finga is on the right track and with a little bit of engineering and nouse i think it will all work out.

If it does work out then i will get another engine box made thats smaller and remove part of the kitchen for better wheelchair access.
That should then leave me with a decent boat with my needs basically covered then.

just have to paint it next year before it all peels off, install a vhf radio, and have the windows refitted with perspex and sealed properly and seek and seal some places where there is water ingress.

good to go then

[station-rat]

If the coupling was damaged, then why was it not machined to true up the faces. Just common sense
The uni joints are designed to have movement, otherwise all the wear occurs in the one spot.
Station-rat

[Razgo-]

well the coupling has me buggered because this is what the marine workshop ordered from elsewhere and got. they were first given a flexi joint but it was too big. so they went with this coupling which i assumed was made specifically for them. so i assume the machinist did a bodgey job? not sure how though but it is a mystery.

[station-rat]

Hi Russell
Have you looked at the shafts when they are turning? Anything not look right

[Razgo-]

Looking at the shaft spinning it was just the knocking noise and the slightly miss shape of the coupling. the noise we now know what that is but the not perfectly rounded coupling is a mystery.

Whilst i am not a metal turner i used to be a wood turner and have never turned something that came out not rounded. I just don't get that part.

[finga]

Looking at the shaft spinning it was just the knocking noise and the slightly miss shape of the coupling. the noise we now know what that is but the not perfectly rounded coupling is a mystery.

Whilst i am not a metal turner i used to be a wood turner and have never turned something that came out not rounded. I just don't get that part.

Because it's your old coupling that's copped a flogging and never been touched ...that's why.
I don't even think they thought to look at the coupling. All just too hard....especially seeing they did not see a bolt sticking out that bashes a uni joint even when it was brought to their attention.
Oh well, it'll just have to come off and get spun in Scotty's little workshop
Bloody boat. I couldn't sleep last night thinking about simple ways to fix the Rumrunner. I think I got it ...I hope
First thing to go is the mount on the bottom. If I remember Hartley's were designed to have the running gear mounted on two bearers going down the length of the boat.
A modified top x-member may be on the cards with slots to adjust the height of the v-drive and arms going out along the bearers that can adjust and lock tilt

By the sounds we'll find out soon enough....

[station-rat]

Hi Finga
Sounds like you have it by the short and curley's
I am sure in no time, you will have it running like a swiss watch
Station-rat

[Razgo-]

ah right the plot thickens. Well i was led to believe this was a new coupling. I think they may dazzled me with sales tactics. I now re read the receipt and can see the have listed "resurface coupling".

so ok that mystery is solved.

sorry for the lack of sleep finga and i think you are spot on with your thoughts.

The v-drive was mounted on the main bearing but was lifted up higher probably because the 6 cyl motor that went in raised the rear too much which meant the v-drive had to come up? i think it was a v8 in it before and before that i don't know.

yeah that dodgy bolt really put that workshop on my dodgy mechanics list. When i spoke to the boss mechanic about he sounded like he would not have done that and it should be replaced with a proper screw. Now thats admission in itself the original hob sucked.

But to then go on and say sorry we can't cover you under warranty as too much time has past. Thats what i don't get. you would thin once he realised hang on thats not good and simply admit to mistake and simply fix it makes them they simply don't care.


I really had thought they were a decent business and they are pretty much the only marine mechanic workshop down there.

I probably should stay away from the onsite workshops but i always thought it was a good to support them since thats why they are there. It just makes you wonder what goes on there sometimes.

[finga]

Mate, I just read through the bill again and there's a few things I'd be asking about.
Where is the new coupling?
Where's the resurfaced coupling?
Where are the two new taper locks?
Unless they are all on the other end of the tailshaft onto the gearbox then I did not see them.
I was pretty sure it was a straight bolt on plate on that end but I could be wrong.

How did they modify the prop shaft entry point? I hope it wasn't the bit of radiator hose and 2 clamps.
Remind me tomorrow to have another gander.

If there is another mechanic down there I'd be getting them to check the bill to what they actually did because, personally, I reckon it was padded more then a bit.

[Razgo-]

Here is another vid and pics i took yesterday. The vid shows the closeness of the offending bolt against the uni joint and also the bit of plastic they used as packing to prop up the v-drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ7ZTO2pnaw

[PinHead]

after seeing that video anyone that did that is not a mechanic aand should never be permitted near a boat ever again.

I would be sending a copy of that video to Fair trading AND..let them know you are sending it to them...might change their mind on the warranty issue.

[finga]

And that's after I tightened it up a bit.
The bolt has actually left marks in the yoke of the uni. and we could see the prop shaft flex due to it.
I reckon a few pictures will be taken during removal.
Anyways...today is the day for hatching a plan and removal and Friday or Saturday refit I reckon.

I really should thank Russell for giving me the opportunity for doing this.
Seeing what this bloke does every day makes me rethink a lot of stuff I thought was important but, in the bigger picture, mean didly squat.
Thanks mate